Bubbles Burg and Balanced Zin

By: Ryan Tedder

We had another busy week at Graileys with fantastic wine and great people. These were some fun and surprising wines that I personally enjoyed.

Gonet-Medeville, Brut Rose, Extra Brut, NV is one of my favorite grower Rose Champagnes. The wine is bone dry and filled with chalky minerality, wild strawberries, crushed raspberries and roses.  Long and precise on the palate, this Rose makes you want to drink it until the bottle is empty.

Lilbert-Fils, Blanc de Blancs, Cramant Grand Cru, 2005 was a heady delight! I literally thought this is an impatient man’s Salon with a more round palate. This is 100% Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs that we were lucky enough to get all 6 cases that were in the USA. What a treat: lemons, quince, sourdough bread, honeysuckle and white roses lept from the glass and the wine just got better as it was open.  If you like a richer style of Blanc de Blancs it is hard to beat this one. Great farmer fizz!

Mommessin, La Forge, Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru, 1996 was showing class and spice. This bottling is actually declassified Clos de Tart Grand Cru and 1996 is a great Burg year. The fruit profile was bing cherries, dreid raspberries, red apple skin, and orange peel. As the wine opened a dried leaf and forest floor component showed itself as did a cinnamon, pepper and star anise. The spiciness, earthiness and tart red fruit synergy was very enjoyable.

Joseph Roty, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, 2004 was definitely more endowed than the MSD. This wine was all red power-pomegranite, red raspberries and black cherries that were wonderfully lush and a silky tannin profile made this wine hard to put down. Roses and red licorice were on the nose and a framboise quality showed up with a little aeration. 2004 is not the best year to lay down for 20+ years but this wine is drinking in a great window currently.

Black Sears, Red Zinfandel, Howell Mountain Napa, 2009 is one of the most balanced Zins I have had in a long time. This is a Thomas Rivers Brown wine that had a nice balance between dried herbs and dust and brambly dark red fruits-loganberries, raspberry pie, strawberries, and brown sugar. This wine had deft power and an airy frame. I had expected a much more extracted wine with less balance and this Black Sears Zin was wonderfully balanced and possessed a refreshingly jazzy acid structure. Kudos TRB!

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Tasting with Bob Levy

By: AJ McClellan

Wow! We had Bob Levy in today to taste us on his great Levy & McClellan wines and boy where they smoking! I was especially impressed with the Ampersand, his second label.

2009 Ampersand – For drinking right now I thought this was the best of the bunch! Soft tannins with great fruit and excellent structure. This wine reminded me of the great Tusk wines we have been drinking recently.

2008 Ampersand – Very different from the 2009 with overripe black fruit backed by rose petal and a slight oxidative note.

2006 Levy & McClellan – This reminds me a lot of a young Harlan with hard tannins and big spice components. I would love to lay this bottle down for a decade to see what it does, I have the feeling it would turn into a truly great bottle.

2005 Levy & McClellan – The 2005 was a little softer than the 2006 with the same rugged backbone and spicy front. There was a beautiful floral note covered with loads of pepper and tobacco on the finish.

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Champagne Friday with Billecart Salmon and Chips

By: Ryan Tedder

Wow what an incredible evening of wine drinking with friends new and old!  I am the Marky Mark of the Graileys team-or the New Kid on the Block if you will-and epic nights like these are the norm for Graileys, but I was still somewhat awestruck by the quality and quantity of amazing fine wines enjoyed at this wine mecca tucked away in Dallas. Freaking awesome!

We had the pleasure of hosting Geoffroy Loisel from Billecart Salmon for a memorable Champagne Friday accompanied with fresh hot chips to set off the precise and electric wines of Billecart. As to be expected the lineup was stellar  but the Roses specifically stood out from the pack. The NV Billecart Salmon Brut Rose was pretty and elegant but also generous with its high toned red flower and red fruit aromas. Rose petals, rose water, cotton candy, crushed raspberries, wild strawberries and a chalky minerality dominated the wine. The 2002 Billecart Salmon Elizabeth Salmon Rose  was on another level-it tasted like the regular brut rose plugged into an electrical outlet-the wine had a powerful, minerally electric wave the carried the wine all over the palate and the finish was a staggering 2 minutes. The wine really sat in the mouth and just churned out layers of red fruit and minerality. Fresh figs and strawberries with cream and toasted baguette. Impressive juice for sure!

My next favorite was the 2000 Billecart Salmon Nicolas Francois Brut-this wine would easily go for another 20+ years. Geoffroy commented that he had recently tasted a 1961 of the same wine and that it was still fresh and powerl. This wine also maintained a firm acidic backbone but the fruits were more sweet citrus, yellow apples, quince and sourdough bread. White flowers and chalk mingled in the wine too adding tension to it. The 1999 Billecart Salmon Blanc de Blancs tasted like the color white-how appropriate! There was a meyer lemon, lychee, kumquat tartness and daisys, spearmint, pine, and chalk aromas. The wine would benefit from extended aeration or more time in the bottle because it was so crystalline and powerful that it was hard to taste the nuance. Really powerful BldBl. The NV Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve  is a great daily brut. It was not too dry and not too sweet. The flavor profile was a football with a precise attack, a fat middle and a laser beam finish. Indicative of the entire lineup-these wines have verve and precision. What a great Champagne house!

After that great start these were my wines of the week – or WOW wines! The 1996 Krug Clos d’Ambonnay  is arguably the best Champagne is the world based on the market price for current vintages. It is a single vinyard 1.7 acre walled vineyard in the Grand Cru Pinot Noir village of Ambonnay. It is a Blanc de Noirs made from 100% Pinot Noir-this is actually the exact wine I was tested on at my last Advanced Sommelier Service Exam for Champagne Service. What a treat to actually taste it! The wine was a red ghost that floated on the palate the rest of the evening. I felt like a bing cherry specter with a rose petal wreath floated into eternity on the expansive and toasty finish. The signature Krug power and finesse were all over this wine.

Next 2 fantastic 1982 Bordeaux were presented and they were singing! The 1982 Mouton Rothschild  was majestic as the aromas oozed out of the bottle right as the cork was pulled. Red currant, cedar, graphite, tobacco, spice box, black cherry, melted minerals were stuffed into this great wine and it didnt need any time to open up. Definitely drinking at its apex. The 1982 Cos d’Estournel from St. Estephe lacked in the aromatic complexity of the Mouton but was more texturely powerful and even a bit burly on the palate. Turned wet earth, cassis, black truffle, pipe tobacco and iron brooded in this powerful wine that screamed for Chateaubriand and good friends. The 1982 Bordeaux vintage is still powering along with the best Chateaux Grand Vin drinking at their apex.

 As Graileys is Welsh for the “House of Burgundy” we had to consume some amazing vintage white and red Burgs! All three of the whites were singing! The 1998 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne was drinking beautifully with butter, hazelnut, buttered popcorn, baked apple pie and limestone minerality. Each white built on the last as the class of Beaune whites forced its will onto our collective palate. 1999 Louis Jadot Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles was a special wine. It is sourced from a micro-parcel of the already world famous Chevalier Grand Cru. The wine was liquid gold-it possessed more spring honey and honeysucle and more of a bosc pear and white peach fruit profile. Even bruleed pineapple emerged in this powerful even tropical white Burg. Lastly the 1996 Jean Noel Gagnard Batard Montrachet took the cake for me. It was bottled sunshine and the palate weight and textural richness of the wine seperated it from its peers. Apple tart, honey, limestone, tangerine, orange blossom, daisys and creamy, toasty, buttered brioche all abounded from the wine. It just kept getting better until the last drop.

The reds were kind of like the Karate Kid-the 2010 Faiveley Mazis Chambertin was doing one legged kicks on trees stumps and catching flies with chopsticks while the 1989 Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley monopole looked on divising the next fence to paint and hand rubbing medical treatment to apply.  The 89 was drinking in a perfect place and the black cherry, red licorice, truffle, forest floor and pipe tobacco were all in balance and the soft round tannins and acid were in perfect supple harmony.  The 2010 tasted of class and potential. The red fruits were still somewhat tart but mouthcoatingly powerful. The morel mushroom, cigar, turned earth and red currant / cranberry fruit were all their in spades-they just lacked finesse due to the brut force the wine was holding back.

And then because at our very core we are funloving hedonists we endulged in a myriad of great Cabs from around the world. The lineup included in no specific order 2008 Robert Foley Howell Mtn Lottery Cab, 2008 Ehlers 1886 Cab, 1997 Fisher Coach Insignia, 2009 Jacquelynn by Boswell, 2010 Beringer Knights Valley Reserve Cabernet, 2009 Labor of Love Cab Franc Blend from Behrens Family, 1999 Merus Cab, 2009 Handwritten Cab, 2000 La Croix de Beaucaillou and a little 1996 Elderton Command Shiraz. A truly special and epic night had by all! Cheers.

 

 

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Old Pets and Young Burgundy

 

We were all geared up for what we thought would be a busy day here at Graileys but it turned out to be a chilled one. When it’s dreary out  and the patio restaurants in Dallas are virtual ghost towns , we’re typically bustling with our members content in sitting out the gloom in the company of fine wines and finer people.

We did have a nice visit from Kelly Peterson from Switchback Ridge who came in armed with her 2010 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. We just saw Kelly on our Napa trip two weeks ago but it was nice to revisit her wines. These three wines were showing well when we tasted them while out in the vineyards in the case of Merlot and while having lunch at Calistoga Ranch in the case of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. I have really been enjoying the 2010s for the most part; there’s an aromatic purity, freshness and suppleness to them them that make them a real pleasure to drink now. The 2010 Switchback Petite Sirah is remarkable in its approachability. I would never have thought I will use that descriptor for a Switchback Petite Sirah, but it has surprisingly smoother tannins. There’s a nice meaty component to its bold, wild raspberry and blueberry flavor profile.

We just got a delivery of a handful of cases of 2010 Burgundy and Simon was in the mood to open a young red Burgundy. He started scanning the shelves and in under 15 seconds, I was handed a glass of 2010 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanee. The wine showed high-toned, youthful aromatics reminiscent of red currant and wild berries. On the palate it was medium-bodied, silky with a beautiful thread of acidity. There was a subtle hint of oak on the palate that was just enough to round the texture. But, that vibrant acidity really pushed through the long finish.

And with that, we called it a day.

 

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Sunshine Celebration of Stunning Wines

By: Ryan Tedder

What a fantastic Tuesday at Graileys yesterday! We celebrated the sun coming out with a plethora of amazing wines-young and very old. We had a full house of members and almost every style of wine was represented: Napa Cab, Champagne, White Burg, Red Burg, Bordeaux, California Grenache (SQN), and even South Africa?!

With so many great wines open I just wanted to focus on four wines that were simply outstanding! We knew it was going to a memorable night when we started with a bottle of 1975 Dom Perignon Oenotheque. The 1970 vintages of Dom P are legendary and this 75 was probably the best bottle of Champagne I have ever had. The mature bakery aromas of sourdough bread, marzipan, apple tartlet, and hazelnut were powerful, layered and hedonistic. The aromatics included daisys, beeswax and honeysuckle and the palate richness and length of finish were without equal. Holy crap wine for sure. We are looking for more as I type because that was a bottle of a lifetime.

Several fantastic White Burgs followed and consensus was that the 1997 Domaine d’Auvenay Meursault les Narvaux by Lalou Bize-Leroy was the best. It’s saying something when a village level Meursault from not the best vintage shines as bright as Montrachets from better vintages. I would say that Lalou Bize-Leroy is equal parts fanatical biodynamicist and wizard winemaker. Her attention to detail in the vineyard shines through in this wine-the glyceral weight of the wine and the underlying verve of acidic power were majestic.  There was a myriad of perfectly ripe fruit that was going strong-bosc pears, quince, sweet citrus zest and lemon oil. Other lifted flower aromatics mingled with honey and vanilla to create a superb wine. Truly a wine of contemplation.

Of the reds two great Cabernet based wines really rang my bell. The 1989 Chateau Leoville Barton was absolutely singing-full of dark power and gravelly minerality.  Cassis, sweet black cherry, pipe tobacco, coffee bean, and spice box oozed out of the wine and the gravel and sanguine notes framed the wine creating a powerful but balanced wine. Cedar, black licorice, dried rose petals and wild blackberries also came out of the wine as it improved with aeration.

On the other end of the spectrum we opened a bottle of 2009 Tusk Cabernet Sauvignon.  Tusk is Philippe Melka’s baby (he owns a third of the winery) and is sourced primarily from Pritchard Hill and the Oakville bench. Besides having really beautiful packaging and a smart label-the wine delivers raw power and potential. This is the second vintage of this amazing Napa Cab and it tasted completely different than the 2008. The 2009 was full of wild purple and black aromas and flavors-blueberries, blackberries, black raspberry, cassis, violets, espresso and anise were forward but noticeably holding back. The wine is just so damn good but so damn young. There was an iron minerality and meatiness to the wine and the finish was 45 seconds out of the bottle. We were lucky enough to get our hands on a few bottles-definitely a cellar candidate that could be drunk in 20 years reflecting on how great the fine wines of Napa can be. All in all quite a great night of wine drinking at Graileys.

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Graileys in Napa: Extended Trip!

By: AJ McClellan

Well, Monday came and went and while everyone was packing to head home, I was having such a great time that I just had to stay a few extra days! John talked me into being his partner in crime and staying in Napa for the next two days to hang out with Bobby E and go to Bob Foleys property in Howell Mountain to help him bottle the 2011 vintage.

Before everyone took off LA and I grabbed a car and went out to one of my favorite vineyards in Napa, Herb Lamb, owned by Herb and Jennifer Lamb. When we pulled around the corner LA and I both held our breath. The landscape was stunning and the vineyards were perfectly situated to capture the morning and afternoon sun.

We tasted the 2011 release with Jennifer and walked the vineyards while she told us the history of her label, Herb Lamb, and the famed Colgin Herb Lamb. This was one of the highlights of the trip for me…

After we got back John and I went off to meet Bob Egelhoff for a jaunt around Napa Valley. First Bob showed us a mass production bottling line, where they pump out 40,000+ cases a day!

Then we went to Glendale ranch where Bob gets all of the grapes for his Egelhoff label. The Ranch was beautiful, nestled in the mountain side at the perfect 600-800 feet above the valley floor.

After we went around the vineyard Bob took us back to his new property in St Helena and we sat down for a few glasses of wine. Good Times!

The next day John and I woke up at the crack of dawn, dragging ourselves out of bed so that we could go bottle the 2011 vintage with Bob Foley. The bottling line was much different than the one I saw the previous day with Bobby E. Each station was fun, and I have the opportunity to work most of them to see how each step in the process worked…

After a hard day of bottling we went back to Bob’s house and cracked a few bottles of Foley wines, satisfied with a job well done.

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Graileys in Napa: Day 4

By: AJ McClellan

With every day being better than the last we were all in for a real treat on the fourth day of our trip. Simon and Ivan had booked us with one of my favorite wineries, Jones Family! We started off the day a little slow as everyone was recovering from the great night rocking it out in Bob Foleys cave the night before, but once we got on the bus everyone was brimming with excitement.

 

We pulled up to the winery and immediately Dan Bailey was there to greet us. Dan has been to Graileys several times in the past few years and he is a dear friend to all of us. We stepped off the bus to taste the 2010 and 2011 Jones Family Sauvignon Blanc – the 2010 was very fresh with lovely stone fruit and classic Sauv Blanc acidity while the 2011 was a little more full with rich mineral notes and a lovely finish that would not stop! While we were polishing off the Sauvignon Blanc Dan took us on a tour of the property. His land goes from around 600 to 800 feet above the valley floor, which is a sweet zone for mountain grapes (and just so happens to be the elevation where the majority of the Grand Cru wines are made in Burgundy). The vineyards were outstanding, and the view wasn’t too bad either!

After the tour and we came back for a vertical of the Jones Family cabernet, accompanied by tier second label, The Sisters. We started with a 2003 Jones Family decanted and ready for dinner. 2003 was the first vintage that was imported into Texas by Ivan, so it had a great significance to the Graileys team. The wine was drinking perfectly with soft tannins and surprisingly fresh fruit. The wine paired perfectly with the roasted Boar that the Napa Valley fire chief had smoked for dinner.

After the 03 Jones we went on to taste the 2009 and 2010 Jones Cabernet and Sisters Cabernet. The Sisters were fantastic in their own way and, as always, provide and exceptional value for the money. The Jones wines were killer. Each was Drinking very well (although the 2010 could use a little more time in the bottle) Classic tobacco, rich spice, ripe black fruits, and floral finish. While we were drinking away on the cabs the Graileys members went into a fierce game of bocce ball, which is the perfect outdoor drinking game! During the madness of the game Dan popped and exceptional 1988 Ponsot Clos de la Roche that he purchased from the importer over fifteen years ago. The Burgundy was refreshing change to all of the Cali Cabs we have been drinking and it went down a little too easily!! After the Ponsot Dan was kind enough to pop a bottle of 2003 Guigal La Landonne for everyone to try, which was showing wonderfully with full bacon, smoke, leather, and cigar clippings…

Sadly we eventually had to leave the sunning Jones Family vineyard, but not before Dan snuck us a magnum of the 2010 Jones to take with us on the bus! (I hope this doesn’t get you in trouble good buddy..) The wine was perfect for the ride home in which each of our members had a DJ war playing around 50 different songs on the ride home.

 

Once we got back to the hotel we had just enough time for a quick shower then it was off to the bar for a drink with Bob Egelhoff. Bobby E is another long time friend of Graileys and he brought with him not only his great 2012 Riesling (which was outstanding with fresh peaches, a hint of sweetness, and outrageous acidity) but he also brought half a case of his library 2006 Cabernet and a magnum of the 2007 Two Worlds Cabernet. The 06 was drinking perfectly with strong tannins and a backbone of clove, cedar, and ripe blackberries while the 07 was even bigger with jammy fruit and a soft finish. Halfway through the night Bob presented Simon with a 6 liter of the 2006 Egelhoff for us to keep as Graileys. We sent the bottle around the room for everyone’s signature to commemorate the occasion, but by the time everyone has signed the bottle we had run out of wine. In true Graileys style Simon stood up and asked Bob if he could refill a 6-liter bottle, once Bob said he not only has the way but the will Simon game me the signed 6-liter and told me to pop the top on it! The party continued well into the night and was a glorious end to a absolutely fantastic Napa trip!

 

 

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Graileys in Napa: Day 3

By Simon Roberts

Wow, just wow! We are in full swing here in Napa and the Bardossono Hotel is just the perfect spot to recuperate between tastings. This beautiful spot right in the heart of Yountville is a little bit like home only with better views.

We headed out to meet Kelly Peterson at Swithback Ridge Vineyards in Calistoga just after 12 noon. We were once again greeted by a perfect weather with no humidity and mid-70s temperature. Just what we needed to encourage more libation.

Kelly’s vineyard is right at the mouth of Dutch Henry Canyon and was simply beautiful. The Peterson family’s estate was originally a farm and plum orchard and was bought by Kelly’s great-grandfather in 1914 for purportedly $1/acre; this is a 100-acre property. It has been in the family ever since with about 21 acres currently under vine planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah. In 1990, fortuitously, John (Kelly’s dad) decided it was time to replant with grapevines and rededicated the property to growing grapes. The estate includes some three acres of old Pets (Petite Sirah), 60-year old vines that John remembers digging holes for as a child.

Kelly greeted us with her 2010 Switchback Ridge Merlot and shared with us her family’s background and early farming exploits that culminated in producing  world-class wines since the 1991 vintage. The 2010 Switchback Merlot showed plums and black raspberries and a lush, rich chocolaty finish. We followed this with a magnum of 2006 Switchback Ridge Merlot that was more elegant with great finesse showing vibrant red fruits and lively acidity. Maybe it was the romance of Napa and the fact that we were standing in the middle of these pristine vineyards but these Merlot were rocking!

 

We headed out to Calistoga Ranch for lunch and more of Kelly’s gems including the 2010 Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon which was drinking remarkably well for such a young wine. Ripe cassis and blackberries with well-rounded, velvety tannins. The 2010 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah is the most approachable vintage I’ve had of this wine. I’m using the descriptor ‘approachable’  loosely here as although there was the unmistakable backbone and massive tannins typical of Petite Sirah, these were balanced by rich fruits and dense texture. The 2010 Petite Sirah Reserve was chewier and showed a more gamy and savory side with notes of clove, charred earth, smoke and dried blueberries. These robust and full-flavored wines were the perfect match to the killer burger, truffle fries and onion rings most of us enjoyed for lunch. Kelly roamed around the table telling us all about the wines that she is so obviously passionate about.

After a poolside afternoon nap for most of us, it was back in the bus and on the meandering roads of Howell Mountain to Bob Foley’s winery in the sleepy town of Angwin. We were greeted by Bob and Kelly with the 2010 Robert Foley Pinot Blanc. This was a great white to sip and enjoy with passed hors d’ouvres. The wine showed white peach and melon notes and a silky mouthfeel that was kept in check by a crisp acidity. Great fruit purity in this wine.

Bob was all set up for bottling. He had giant tanks that each held 52 barrels of wine that were ready  to go into their individual bottles. A couple from our group actually decided to stay and help Bob and his crew bottle.

What followed was an epic Graileys experience… Bob led us into the caves dug deep into the mountain, past all the barrels where Robert Foley as well as Switchback Ridge wines were aging.

Past the barrel tunnels, we walked into this scene…

 

We danced, we laughed, we hulahooped and drank like kings!

Bob is a long time musician and he treated us all to a great show with his awesome original songs. We heard a little kinks and Beatles influence but this was all Bob’s original music. What a night… this one will go down in Graileys folklore.

And the wines did not suck either. Some of the highlights included the inaugural vintage of 2010 Robert Foley Pinot Noir Hudson Vineyard which was full, dense and intense with pronounced cherry cola, plums, strawberry, cinnamon and mocha. Creamy midpalate finishing with some sappy tannins.

The 2008 Robert Foley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon also showed really well with pure cassis and blackberry fruit with hints of espresso and licorice. Lush and rounded texture with an incredible length marked by ripe blackcurrant fruit.

 

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Graileys in Napa: Day 2

By Simon Roberts

Our second day started with a relaxing brunch in the patio of Bardessono Hotel with Doug Hill, proprietor and vineyard manager of Hill Family Estate. This estate has been producing a range of great wines from a variety of vineyard sites all over the valley; Doug’s natural curiosity and three decades of experience managing vineyards has given him a unique knack for matching grape varieties to different microclimates. The first flight consisted of the current releases of Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay; winemaker Allison Doran introduced the whites. Allison regaled us with her amazing journey thus far in the wine world; she grew up in the valley being the daughter of Russell Green, past proprietor of Simi Winery in the 1970s, and she worked with Andre Tchelistcheff whom her father hired as a consultant for a period of time. It was a pleasure to sit and sip these wines feeling the pure passion and enthusiasm of the winemaker.  The 2012 Hill Family Estate Albarino from Carneros-Napa Valley won some praises from the group with its expressive floral, white peach, lime and sweet herbaceous notes. It was clean and crisp; beautiful purity and zingy acidity. Brunch was served with 2010 Hill Family Estate Merlot which was showing really well; plums and sweet spice, juicy with supple texture. The 2009 Hill Family Estate Double Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon was poured next. This was backward reticent. The palate showed subtle hints of blackberry and black cherry and spicy/cedary undertones. This clearly needs at least another 3-5 years to lose those firm tannins and reveal the deeper fruit and richer texture that’s currently hidden in immense tannins.

We headed out for our first foray into the mountains at two and up deep into the hills to Tusk Estates. To say this place is impressive would be a vast understatement. Proprietor Tim Martin made us feel welcome and at home from the moment he greeted us at the door. Stunning views on the back lawn while sipping a lovely Sancerre was spectacular. The view of the valley from up here was magnificent and overlooked the pristine vineyards of Harlan and one can gleam a view of Pritchard Hill across the valley. Two 150-year old eucalyptus trees stood guard on each side of the villa; a hot tub just to the side of the house looked really inviting.

With everyone oohing and aahing over the view, Tim ushered us into the cellar of this dreamlike Tuscan-inspired mansion anchored by a tasting room fit for kings with this long, beautiful table.

These wines really are truly special  and we were privileged to have the opportunity to taste the 125-case production 2009 Tusk Estates Cabernet Sauvignon. This showed great complexity marrying gravelly minerality and coffee with pure blackcurrant fruit. Full-bodied and muscular with robust tannins and tremendous concentration. This requires at least a decade of additional cellar time to flesh out the midpalate. The 2009 Tusk Estates Cabernet Franc was quiet attractive with lively aromatics of green tobacco, spice and floral accents. Full bodied an opulent on the palate combining rich fruitiness with supple tannins. This was drinking now.

After a relaxing afternoon poolside and attempting to hydrate with gallons of water, we jumped back on our bus and headed out to the home and vineyard estate of Andy Erickson and his lovely wife Annie Favia located in the new Coombsville AVA. We strolled out back past his farm and were welcomed with a stunning view overlooking the valley along with a huge fire pit and chefs busy preparing what turned out to be a meal to remember. The wine flowed and Andy’s hospitality was, as always, flawless.

 For dinner, the 2009 Favia Rompecabezas Grenache and 2009 Favia Quarzo Syrah were poured. The Rompecabezas was simply decadent with lush raspberries, red cherries and plums and a gorgeous texture while the Quarzo showed more muscle and robust structure along with pronounced peppery spice, minerality, smoke, wild berries and baking spices. We were quick to polish these two structured reds as all tried to keep warm and keep the cold winds at bay.

Before dessert hit the table, we all ended up huddled around the campfire swapping stories and comparing a 3-liter 2002 Lafite which to Andy’s 2002 Favia La Magdalena. The Lafite was surprisingly open showing ripe blackcurrant fruit, earth, tobacco and a nice thread of iron minerality. Elegant and vibrant. The Favia was more opulent with richer and sweeter fruit with hints of earth and Asian spices.

Another wonderful experience for all… onwards and upwards!

 

 

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Graileys in Napa: Day 1

A small group of Graileys members are invading the wine country for a long weekend and a dinner featuring the wines of Gargiulo Vineyards kick started the party on Thursday night. Majority of our group hit Bouchon Restaurant for a light lunch and beers earlier that afternoon careful not to ruin our appetites for an evening of great wine and food. We met our members with a glass of the dry, vibrant, and super fresh 2010 Gargiulo Vineyards Rosato di Sangiovese as they trickled in for the cocktail hour. The fresh aromas of red fruits (cherry, strawberry, raspberry) that carried to the medium body, rounded mouthfeel and tangy acidity was just the wine to complement the decidedly serene environs of Bardessono Hotel’s terrace where dinner was set up.  The rose is produced from 100% Sangiovese of which 2.5 acres are planted in the Money Road Ranch vineyard. Yes, Sangiovese in Oakville! There is much to be said for a man who sticks to his guns… he maintains Sangiovese vines in prime Cabernet land because he enjoys drinking it. Well, here’s to you Jeff Gargiulo! Jeff and his daughter April joined us for pre-dinner drinks and shared tidbits about their prime estate vineyards in the heart of Oakville namely, the Money Road Ranch and 575 OVX. Justin Dragoo, Gargiulo Vineyards President and General Manager, led the wine tasting.

For the salad course, we polished off more rose before following it up with the 2010 Gargiulo Vineyards Aprile. This is the family’s homage to the super-Tuscans and Brunelli of Italy. Gargiulo’s sangiovese vines are cuttings from Sangiovese Grosso, the clone responsible for Brunello di Montalcino. Aprile is a blend of 96% Sangiovese and 4%  Cabernet Sauvignon. This was simply delicious; aromatic with bright cherries, strawberries, black raspberries, spice and fig notes that led to a juicy, velvety-textured and broad palate. Beautiful acidity and persistent length.

We next tasted the 2009 Gargiulo Vineyards Money Road Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon. This has been a bane in my existence as a handful of clients have been begging for more of this wine but we have been sold out since fall of 2012. Justin was generous enough to pull a few bottles from their library to share with us and tasting this wine again tonight, it is easy to remember why this wine has a serious following. Bold and upfront fruitiness reminiscent of fresh blackberries, plums, blackcurrants along with toasty/sweet oak nuance characterize the nose. In the mouth, this is full-bodied, fleshy and smooth-textured yet not overtly extracted. Ripe, well-integrated and silky tannins make this wine appealing to drink now. Yet there is no denying the underlying structure in this wine; can easily develop more complexity and nuance with another five years of bottle age.

Next poured was the 2009 Gargiulo Vineyards G Major 7 Cabernet Sauvignon from selected fruits coming from the 575 OVX vineyards which lies adjacent to the cult winery Screaming eagle. The wine is Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated with additions of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot in the blend; the name pays homage to G Major 7’s four chords accentuating the four traditional Bordeaux varieties that go into the blend. This wine showed more density and extraction than the Money Road Ranch with higher levels of tannins. Notes of cedar, roasted espresso with blueberry, plums, black cherries, baking spice and a floral component were consistent both on the nose and palate. Although this wine’s balance and velvety mouthfeel make this approachable now, I think it’s more beneficial to lay this down for another decade in the cellar. Very primary right now.

This being a Graileys event, we also shipped a few of our own inventory to share around the table. So just to cap the night of, Simon opened the 1994 Bernard Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets which was surprisingly good. This was definitely at peak now showing pronounced roasted yellow fruits, spice, honey, nuts and butterscotch aromas and flavors and a palate that was creamy with a touch of flinty minerality. It seemed short on the finish and lacking in substance but definitely a decent wine.

This was followed by a 3-liter bottle of the 2001 Valdicava Madonna del Piano Brunello di Montalcino that stole the show with its intense smoky, graphite, dried rose petals, cured meat, clove spice and a hint of meaty notes. Impressive complexity. Powerful palate, full-bodied with tremendous flavor depth and vibrant acidity. This was a baby showing some sappy, drying  tannins on the finish. This will benefit from another decade or two of further cellaring but an impressive wine nonetheless. I suppose it deserves its place in the 100-point wine club.

And with that most of us called it a night….

 

 

 

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