Graileys in Napa: Day 2

By Simon Roberts

Our second day started with a relaxing brunch in the patio of Bardessono Hotel with Doug Hill, proprietor and vineyard manager of Hill Family Estate. This estate has been producing a range of great wines from a variety of vineyard sites all over the valley; Doug’s natural curiosity and three decades of experience managing vineyards has given him a unique knack for matching grape varieties to different microclimates. The first flight consisted of the current releases of Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay; winemaker Allison Doran introduced the whites. Allison regaled us with her amazing journey thus far in the wine world; she grew up in the valley being the daughter of Russell Green, past proprietor of Simi Winery in the 1970s, and she worked with Andre Tchelistcheff whom her father hired as a consultant for a period of time. It was a pleasure to sit and sip these wines feeling the pure passion and enthusiasm of the winemaker.  The 2012 Hill Family Estate Albarino from Carneros-Napa Valley won some praises from the group with its expressive floral, white peach, lime and sweet herbaceous notes. It was clean and crisp; beautiful purity and zingy acidity. Brunch was served with 2010 Hill Family Estate Merlot which was showing really well; plums and sweet spice, juicy with supple texture. The 2009 Hill Family Estate Double Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon was poured next. This was backward reticent. The palate showed subtle hints of blackberry and black cherry and spicy/cedary undertones. This clearly needs at least another 3-5 years to lose those firm tannins and reveal the deeper fruit and richer texture that’s currently hidden in immense tannins.

We headed out for our first foray into the mountains at two and up deep into the hills to Tusk Estates. To say this place is impressive would be a vast understatement. Proprietor Tim Martin made us feel welcome and at home from the moment he greeted us at the door. Stunning views on the back lawn while sipping a lovely Sancerre was spectacular. The view of the valley from up here was magnificent and overlooked the pristine vineyards of Harlan and one can gleam a view of Pritchard Hill across the valley. Two 150-year old eucalyptus trees stood guard on each side of the villa; a hot tub just to the side of the house looked really inviting.

With everyone oohing and aahing over the view, Tim ushered us into the cellar of this dreamlike Tuscan-inspired mansion anchored by a tasting room fit for kings with this long, beautiful table.

These wines really are truly special  and we were privileged to have the opportunity to taste the 125-case production 2009 Tusk Estates Cabernet Sauvignon. This showed great complexity marrying gravelly minerality and coffee with pure blackcurrant fruit. Full-bodied and muscular with robust tannins and tremendous concentration. This requires at least a decade of additional cellar time to flesh out the midpalate. The 2009 Tusk Estates Cabernet Franc was quiet attractive with lively aromatics of green tobacco, spice and floral accents. Full bodied an opulent on the palate combining rich fruitiness with supple tannins. This was drinking now.

After a relaxing afternoon poolside and attempting to hydrate with gallons of water, we jumped back on our bus and headed out to the home and vineyard estate of Andy Erickson and his lovely wife Annie Favia located in the new Coombsville AVA. We strolled out back past his farm and were welcomed with a stunning view overlooking the valley along with a huge fire pit and chefs busy preparing what turned out to be a meal to remember. The wine flowed and Andy’s hospitality was, as always, flawless.

 For dinner, the 2009 Favia Rompecabezas Grenache and 2009 Favia Quarzo Syrah were poured. The Rompecabezas was simply decadent with lush raspberries, red cherries and plums and a gorgeous texture while the Quarzo showed more muscle and robust structure along with pronounced peppery spice, minerality, smoke, wild berries and baking spices. We were quick to polish these two structured reds as all tried to keep warm and keep the cold winds at bay.

Before dessert hit the table, we all ended up huddled around the campfire swapping stories and comparing a 3-liter 2002 Lafite which to Andy’s 2002 Favia La Magdalena. The Lafite was surprisingly open showing ripe blackcurrant fruit, earth, tobacco and a nice thread of iron minerality. Elegant and vibrant. The Favia was more opulent with richer and sweeter fruit with hints of earth and Asian spices.

Another wonderful experience for all… onwards and upwards!

 

 

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