By Simon Roberts
Wow, just wow! We are in full swing here in Napa and the Bardossono Hotel is just the perfect spot to recuperate between tastings. This beautiful spot right in the heart of Yountville is a little bit like home only with better views.
We headed out to meet Kelly Peterson at Swithback Ridge Vineyards in Calistoga just after 12 noon. We were once again greeted by a perfect weather with no humidity and mid-70s temperature. Just what we needed to encourage more libation.
Kelly’s vineyard is right at the mouth of Dutch Henry Canyon and was simply beautiful. The Peterson family’s estate was originally a farm and plum orchard and was bought by Kelly’s great-grandfather in 1914 for purportedly $1/acre; this is a 100-acre property. It has been in the family ever since with about 21 acres currently under vine planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah. In 1990, fortuitously, John (Kelly’s dad) decided it was time to replant with grapevines and rededicated the property to growing grapes. The estate includes some three acres of old Pets (Petite Sirah), 60-year old vines that John remembers digging holes for as a child.
Kelly greeted us with her 2010 Switchback Ridge Merlot and shared with us her family’s background and early farming exploits that culminated in producing world-class wines since the 1991 vintage. The 2010 Switchback Merlot showed plums and black raspberries and a lush, rich chocolaty finish. We followed this with a magnum of 2006 Switchback Ridge Merlot that was more elegant with great finesse showing vibrant red fruits and lively acidity. Maybe it was the romance of Napa and the fact that we were standing in the middle of these pristine vineyards but these Merlot were rocking!
We headed out to Calistoga Ranch for lunch and more of Kelly’s gems including the 2010 Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon which was drinking remarkably well for such a young wine. Ripe cassis and blackberries with well-rounded, velvety tannins. The 2010 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah is the most approachable vintage I’ve had of this wine. I’m using the descriptor ‘approachable’ loosely here as although there was the unmistakable backbone and massive tannins typical of Petite Sirah, these were balanced by rich fruits and dense texture. The 2010 Petite Sirah Reserve was chewier and showed a more gamy and savory side with notes of clove, charred earth, smoke and dried blueberries. These robust and full-flavored wines were the perfect match to the killer burger, truffle fries and onion rings most of us enjoyed for lunch. Kelly roamed around the table telling us all about the wines that she is so obviously passionate about.
After a poolside afternoon nap for most of us, it was back in the bus and on the meandering roads of Howell Mountain to Bob Foley’s winery in the sleepy town of Angwin. We were greeted by Bob and Kelly with the 2010 Robert Foley Pinot Blanc. This was a great white to sip and enjoy with passed hors d’ouvres. The wine showed white peach and melon notes and a silky mouthfeel that was kept in check by a crisp acidity. Great fruit purity in this wine.
Bob was all set up for bottling. He had giant tanks that each held 52 barrels of wine that were ready to go into their individual bottles. A couple from our group actually decided to stay and help Bob and his crew bottle.
What followed was an epic Graileys experience… Bob led us into the caves dug deep into the mountain, past all the barrels where Robert Foley as well as Switchback Ridge wines were aging.
Past the barrel tunnels, we walked into this scene…
We danced, we laughed, we hulahooped and drank like kings!
Bob is a long time musician and he treated us all to a great show with his awesome original songs. We heard a little kinks and Beatles influence but this was all Bob’s original music. What a night… this one will go down in Graileys folklore.
And the wines did not suck either. Some of the highlights included the inaugural vintage of 2010 Robert Foley Pinot Noir Hudson Vineyard which was full, dense and intense with pronounced cherry cola, plums, strawberry, cinnamon and mocha. Creamy midpalate finishing with some sappy tannins.
The 2008 Robert Foley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon also showed really well with pure cassis and blackberry fruit with hints of espresso and licorice. Lush and rounded texture with an incredible length marked by ripe blackcurrant fruit.