By: Ryan Tedder
It was a ‘Merica type of long weekend at Graileys. We had a nice group of members new and old beating the summer heat and holiday weekend chicanery by sipping some tasty treats in the wine cave. The selections were as diverse as they were delicious. Here’s a quick run down.
My wines of the night were the 1997 Domaine d’Auvenay by Leroy Meursault les Narvaux and the 2009 Hundred Acre Kayli Morgan Cabernet Sauvignon . Both were generous and powerful in their own right. The Meursault producer really sets my bar for the best white wines I have ever had. Domaine d’Auvenay is simply stunning-this is the personal Domaine of Lalou Bize-Leroy of Leroy fame. They measure production in bottles not cases. I have had several other bottlings of Les Narvaux and they did not even begin to hold a candle to this amazing wine. Caramel corn, quince tart, baked apple pie, honeyed richness, a broad swath of limestone minerality-simply majestic. It’s a shame we only have 2 bottles left (tear forming in eye…). The Hundred Acre was fantastic as well. The Kayli Morgan vineyard is up in St. Helena and this wine can hang with the best in the area. It had saturated black, purple and red fruits and undeniable power yet the tannins were round and inviting and the oak was lush and caressing. There is a reason Cabs from Napa are so well liked-they are rich, aristocratic, generous, sweetly fruited, savory with cedar and tobacco, and seamless all at the same time. Quite a feat!
My other highlights for night (and there were plenty!) were 2002 Dom Ruinart - one of the finest Blanc de Blancs made and a true benchmark for fine Champagne. It was like drinking an effervescent and creamy white, yellow, tart green fruit melange with high-toned aromatics, honeycomb, buttered toast and lillies. Just great. The 2007 Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape was showing beautifully as well. This wine showed more ripe pineapple than almost any wine I have ever had. The tropical notes married with honey, cream, lemon oil. 2010 Jones Family Sauvignon Blanc was oaked SB but did not taste one-dimensional and was light on its feet. It tasted like some of the best White Bordeaux made-vanilla, lemongrass, tangerine, orange, green apple, green papaya, light spice and a round, rich mouthfeel and long finish. The 2011 Aubert Eastside Chardonnay was brought in by a member and it was a dead ringer for great Cote de Beaune 1er Cru. Buttered popcorn, baked pear, distinct mineral, and richness with finesse showcased this lovely Chard. Without a doubt one of the best American Chardonnay producers.
For reds the 1989 Chateau Olivier was showing its pedigree and how well the 1989 Bordeaux are drinking now. Cedar, tobacco, graphite, cassis, red currant, gravel, leather, and blood-outstanding! The 1989 Remoissenet Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru had shed its baby fat and was all raspberry tart, roses, cherry cordial, morel mushroom and silky length. 1997 Gaja Sperss Barolo was just coming into its drinking window. Tar, black truffles, black berry, cigar wrapper, dried roses, and dried black cherry was married with still striking tannins and refreshing acidity. 2010 Sine Qua Non Five Shooter Grenache was as impressive as it always is. I would love to blind this against Clos des Papes or some other riper, barrique driven CdP’s. Lovely aromatics, lush but balanced fruit and an endless finish mark this beauty. 2009 Tortuga Cabernet Sauvignon and 2010 Zeitgeist Cabernet Sauvignon were both absolutely fantastic as well. The Tortuga-sourced primarily from Pritchard Hill-showed its terroir with purple and black fruit, fudge, dried herbs, plum, and toasty, creamy oak. The Zeitgesit tasting like Spottswoode mixed with Abreu Cappella-oh wait-it kinda is that! Grippy velvety tannins, brooding black fruits, black licorice, black pepper, dried rose petals and an great flavor expression from attack to finish make me a believer in this wine. Great drinking!