By: LA Perkel
AJ was auctioned off for a charity event tonight so I had to step up to the proverbial wine plate while the golden boy does his good deed for the year. But what a wined-up night it turned out to be.
Kicking off the event was a bottle of 2009 Sine Qua Non ‘On the Lam’. This wine was impressive in its balance. Yes, it was big and fleshy with sweet fruit, but it was balanced in its power. A blend of Roussanne, Chardonnay, and Viognier, it was perfumed with roasted peach, apricot, pears, orange blossoms, and honey, but there was a hint of spice that provided lift to the wine’s viscous and mouthcoating palate. Not a bad choice at all.
Next came a generous sip of 1999 D’Auvenay Meursault ‘Les Narvaux’. Intense toasty and buttered popcorn nose leading to a palate that was full-bodied and generous with flavors of nuts, flint, minerals, meyer lemon, and stone fruits. The impressive acidity was heightened by a touch of wet stone.
Then I was handed a taste of 2007 Harris Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Lakeview Vineyard’. Initially muted on the nose, but became more aromatic with air eventually showing classic cassis and blueberry aromas. In time, the touch of Petite Verdot showed in beautiful violet and plum undertones. It grew more expansive with intense black fruits, licorice, and vanilla hints. Impressive texture and integration.
Finally, it was time to sit down for dinner. Cooking a feast was Sharon Hage whose inspired food pairing sent back clean plates to the kitchen each time.
N/V Gonet-Medeville Rose Extra Brut paired with Spanish octopus with spring fava and celery. This wine is dominated by Chardonnay in the blend; very dry, brisk, and clean. The wine’s minerality highlighted the octopus’ briny sweetness.
1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne paired with Walleye pike with white asparagus vinaigrette and buttered rice. Classic Corton-Charlemagne in its structure and rich, rounded texture. Layered with grilled hazelnuts, honey, peach, and vanilla. Impressive length marked by caramel apple. The wine’s complexity was an excellent pairing to the mild, elegant flavors of Walleye.
1997 Jean Grivot Echezeaux paired with Local chicken with warm spice and liver toasts. Aromatic with intense wild strawberry, dark cherries, and hint of mocha. Medium-bodied, silky, vibrant. This pairing was a match made in heaven bringing another layer of flavor – an interesting sweet and aromatic spice.
1998 Troplong Mondot, 1997 Ridge Monte Bello, 2008 Favia Cerro Sur paired with Rack of Lamb with side of beet salad. The dinner originally only called for 1998 Troplong, but this being Graileys, I fully expected Simon to pull out other bottles from the cellar just for kicks. The Troplong was elegant and lighter in body with tobacco, smoke, dried fruit plums, dusty cherry, and potting earth. More pronounced acidity. The 1997 Monte Bello was showing magnificently well. More textured, richer on the palate and showing more fruit. Mature notes of leather and dried tobacco added complexity. The Cabernet Franc-dominated 2008 Cerro Sur was aromatic, full-bodied, showy, opulent, spicy with some tannic grip in the back. Personally, I favored the Troplong-Mondot in this pairing with the combination of subtle sweet dried fruit and smoke providing great affinity to the earthiness of the lamb.
1983 Ferreira ‘Quinta do Seixo’ paired with Dark chocolate cake with East Texas Blackberries and Cream. Opulent nose of raspberry liqueur, candied pecans, cinnamon, and caramelized sugar. Elegant palate, still vibrant acidity. The wine’s richness matched the density of the chocolate cake.