David E was first in the door with bottles to restock his on-premise locker. One of the bottles was a 1986 Chateau L’Arrosee, a solitary bottle leftover from his old collection. The nose was lovely but the palate was a totally different story. It was thin with a caramelized note and very little fruit. Short, bitter finish. Hollow mid-palate. I think we missed this wine’s drinking window. Next, we had a welcome visit from DD, who predictably, brought his A game and promptly popped a 1982 Pichon Lalande. This was right on! This was seductive from start to finish exhibiting an exotic nose loaded with blackcurrants, cedar, and spice and an opulent, sumptuous, exuberant palate. There was a mouthfilling quality to this wine that just caressed every inch of my taste buds. Very fine length. Drinking now but still relatively youthful with tremendous aging potential. Simon next poured a 2001 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon around the table. I’ve always been a fan of Togni wines and this bottle was showing well with minty and cedar notes. Well structured with discreet tannins and fresh acidity. This wine is aging gracefully and has a long, happy life ahead. Tom D stopped by next with Grange in mind so Simon fished out a 2004 Penfolds Grange from Tom’s cage. As I poured, this wine’s intense aromatics filled the air. Black cherry, dark chocolate, licorice, blackberry, spicy and floral on the nose and palate. Opulent and velvety in structure. Very youthful. Although delicious to drink now for its tremendous fruit and attractive texture, this will age very well. Tom D generously popped a bottle of 1993 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon next. A fully mature wine with cedar, tobacco, and spice. Medium body. It seemed austere and the finish was short. I liked the nose on this wine better than I did the palate. Maybe it was unfair to taste this more elegant wine right next to the voluptuous Grange. A bottle of 1988 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco hit the table next. This was one of the more attractive Giacosas I’ve had the pleasure of tasting. It was lacking this nail polish funk that I typically get with Giacosa which takes an hour to blow off. This showed savoury aromas of mushroom, truffle, earth, fig, forest floor, and dusty black cherry. Stunning mouthfeel – rich and dense with exuberant acidity and a persistent length. As the wine sat in the glass, it just kept changing. Unbelievable complexity.
2009 Opus One
By: AJ McClellan
We just tasted the newest release of 2009 Opus One. The wine was opened three hours before we tasted it and it was singing in the glass. The nose showed deep black fruit, lavender, cedar, and huge sandalwood. Once I tasted the wine it exploded on the palate. Huge tannins with brooding black cherry and overripe plums are in the forefront with a backend of heavy wooden tannins and thick leather strips.
There are a few technological advances on the new Opus that are of note as well (which actually started in 2008). There is a NFC (Near Field Communication) chip under the UPS code which is tracks the provenance of the wines and helps to prevent counterfeiting. There is also a QR code on the bottle that you can use to watch a video that the winemaker has prepared on the wine and the growing season, you can also use the QR code to book a personal tour…
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A Proper Graileys Night
By: Simon Roberts
So much fun last night, what started as an unusually quiet Friday afternoon turned into a proper Graileys night. Wines started flowing around 5:30 as members started digging into the cellar. First up Doc Scott pulled a nice 1998 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne. Next our friend Ivan opened up a 2001 Pride Reserve Cabernet that was drinking like a champ, Bob Foleys fingerprints are all over this perfectly balanced cabernet, it still drinks very young and has long life ahead of it. My Man Mike Moore was next through the door, picking up a few recently purchased bottles of Harlan the Maiden. Mike opened the 2002 Maiden and told us how he met the winemaker, Bob Levy, back in the day. Bob had told him to buy Maiden, lots of great fruit from Harlan goes in the blend he was told. It was great advice, if the 02 is anything to go by I will be stashing some of this wine back for myself. It had a superb concentration of fruit and balance, a smooth finish with gobs of black current flavors that kept lingering. Todd Mathis dropped by next. Todd imports a very good Portfolio of European wines from Martines. He is in for the Tex / O.U. game this weekend with his buddy Waldo, a guy who had us all surprised as the night developed.
Todd opened a stunning 2008 Mortet Gevrey Chambertin VV that was pure class in a glass, this Pinot was superb and had the whole table talking. The wine was flowing, a 95 Togni Cabernet that rocked, a 99 Bouchard Bonnes Mares and a 99 Anne Gros Clos Vougeot was opened, bother were extremely tight, lets decant them and see what they do… John and Imee were in next picking up a bunch of goodies that John had recently purchased. In true Grailey’s fashion John opens a 1997 Etude Cabernet that was wine of the night up to this point, a wine that has the wow factor. My man Mike moore decides to get everybody around the table introduced and more members arrive – John and his lovely girl arrived and opened very nice 1997 Pride Cabernet Franc, Norman and his lovely wife joined in the fun and opened some more superb older Burgundy, a 1990 Faiveley Charmes Chambertin. As everybody sips and shares Waldo introduces himself, it is his first time in Graileys and he is loving the atmosphere around the table. So much so that when he revealed he was an Opera singer it kind of felt right for him to belt one out, and belt one out he did. We have had some great singing in Graileys in the past at various events but Opera……never, especially like this .Waldo absolutely killed it, he made the wine taste that much better I swear! What a talent this guy has. The sound coming from his lungs paired ever so perfectly with the group and the wines, awesome Graileys fun.
The wines in the decanters begin to strut their stuff. The 99 Bouchard is smoking good and the Anne Gros is starting to sing. Todd picks a gem from the cellar and opens a 87 Drouhin Musigny that was just stunning and flying right under the radar. It is time to pull one from my stash, how do I top this table. I dig around in the back and come up with a 2001 Rousseau Clos St Jaques and it was nearly as good as Waldos singing! So much great wine, I thought I may have won wine of the night until a 94 Colgin Herb Lamb was opened for the table. This really is a very special wine and it topped the night off in true fashion. When I say special I am putting this on par with some of the most pleasurable wines I have been lucky enough to taste, including 61 Petrus and 50 Lafleur. It is the second time I have tasted this wine and my best descriptor for it is EXOTIC in every way. This glass of wine just keeps giving, it has a magical personality that hits your senses on every level. The nose reminded me of walking through the perfume isle in the mall, hints of lavender and underbrush but when you taste this wine it envelopes every part of the mouth, massive fruits that are just perfectly in balance with the acid, this is a full on hedonistic wine and worth every bit of it’s pricey reputation. What another great night at Graileys.
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A Palate Adventure
By: LA Perkel
It was one of those days when our members were on totally different drinking moods so we ended up with a broad range of wines. The only constant that day was Dr. Scott who, as usual, was craving proper Champagne. So he fished out a NV Jacques Selosse Brut Initiale from his cage. Interestingly, there was barely any visible mousse on the glass yet on the palate it was persistent although delicate. The wine’s has an absolutely spectacular nose with pronounced notes of caramel, baked pastry, brioche, green fruits, roasted nuts, and minerals that led to a full body with creamy texture lifted by a seaweed-like minerality. I was impressed by the wine’s balance, depth and complexity.
Another member walked in with a muscular California Cabernet in mind so next opened was a 2006 Bond The Matriarch whose aromatics were initially dominated by vanilla, espresso and toasty oak. The alcohol was likewise dominant on the finish. An hour in the glass and the wine started to open up showing some plums, black cherry, clove notes, and an interesting iodine component. This is a massive wine that needs more bottle age to soften some of that tannic structure and hopefully allow the oak and fruit to come into balance. Right now, I’m not a fan. From a recent cellar acquisition, we opened a 2002 Greenock Creek Alices Shiraz. This was expressive right out of the bottle: smoky with plums, blackberry pie, licorice, and black cherry. The palate was rich and opulent, with fine-grained, silky tannins. Not jammy at all. With great core of acidity. Very well integrated right now and I think this is in its prime-drinking window.
And just in time, Dr. David walked in the door with a bottle of 2000 Merry Edwards Cuvee Meredith Sparkling Wine. The nose screamed butterscotch! The palate was rich with creamier mousse and a lush fruitiness. This was produced from the first Pinot Noir harvest from Meredith Estate. Aromas and flavors of poached pear, buttered popcorn, and lemon curd. This was a pretty good New World bubbly. Simon popped open a 2000 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque next which was compelling. Notes of tar, smoke, spice, black currant and blackberry notes defined the nose. The palate was full, supple-textured, great fruit depth, and fresh acidity. Still some grippy tannins noticeable on the finish. Would love to revisit this wine in another 5 years.
AJ and I were next poured a red wine blind. Appearance-wise, this wine showed a deep ruby core with very minimal rim variation. On the nose, the aromas were all oak-derived: mocha, espresso, vanilla. There was barely any fruit. A touch of graphite. Obtrusive alcohol and tannins. Out of balance. I was thinking a poorly made 2001 California Cabernet. I was completely off. It was a 2003 Chateau Lagrezette Cahors La Pigeonnier. Grape variety? Malbec from Southwest France.
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Tasting with Kelly Peterson
We had Kelly Peterson from Switchback Ridge in over the weekend. I was floored by the great quality of her wines. Made by Bob Foley you can tell that these wines have a very distinctive touch to them. My favorite of the lineup was the 2009 Merlot but the 2010 wines were showing very well for a tough, wet, and cold growing season.
2009 Switchback Ridge Merlot – A rich bottle of Merlot that is well structured and showing many complex layers of black cherry, allspice, and ripe black fruits. The finish is lovely with loads of spice and a soft tannic structure.
2010 Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon – Bing cherry-like fruit introduces a harmony of perfectly ripe black fruit aromas. The initial rush of fruit on the palate gives way to gentle tannins and lingering notes of berries, chocolate and coffee beans.
2010 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah – Surprisingly soft for Petite Sirah and very approachable. Inky dark in color with ripe berry pie and briar aromas and flavors. The mid palate is very mouth-coating, and the wine finishes with surprisingly gentle, soft tannins.
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1982 Grand Puy Lacoste
Continuing our saga with this new cellar we just picked up, the Graileys boys just got done unpacking and shelving some of our new stash. Amidst this 5,000-bottle haystack was this lone bottle of Grand Puy Lacoste that was missing a label. Simon decided to open it up and I suddenly hear this “Holy crap…” emanating from the bar area. Simon saunters over to our work table and hands us the cork bearing the wine’s vintage – 1982.
Yes, we just hit the jackpot! On the nose, this wine showed savory and layered notes of iodine, loam, smoky oak, tobacco, and roasted coffee. Tremendous concentration and richness on the palate exuding flavors of roasted coffee, blackberry, plums, licorice, and bittersweet chocolate. Delicious to drink now but the flavor concentration and balance suggest further life ahead.
Thank you, Simon!
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Because it’s Monday
It was a quiet start to the week but what a day. First opened was a 1976 Leroy Beaune Aigrots which showed a fully mature nose of tar, leather, earth, fig, and raisins. Initial whiff of VA (volatile acidity). Incredible richness, depth, and length on the palate where it showed more fruit component and subdued earthiness. This is definitely a wine to drink now. Admittedly, the nose was a bit off-putting from the VA so while we waited for the funk to (hopefully) blow off, Dr. Scott opened a 1969 Remoissenet Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts.
According to him, this is an epic year for him as he entered first grade on this year. This showed a more discreet earthiness. High-toned with tons of minerality along with red fruits and clove spice. Tasted after the much richer and dense Leroy, this seemed austere. And yes, the VA did dissipate from the Leroy allowing the dried fruit flavors to push through. Just as we were polishing off the last drop of Leroy, the Graileys boys walked having just come from a weekend trip. AJ pulls out a bottle of 2000 Bryant Family Cabernet Sauvignon from his backpack. This was youthful showing a remarkable deep ruby core and intense black pepper spice, blackcurrant, blackberry, toasty vanilla, and crème de cassis. That spicy aromatics was so pronounced, I initially thought this was a Syrah until I tasted the wine. It was unabashedly Napa Cabernet with its density, fruit concentration, and a broad mid-palate. This bottle has a long way to go.
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The cult that is Sine Qua Non
By: LA Perkel
Last night was a proper Graileys night when we were mobbed by enthusiastic members in for an epic Sine Qua Non tasting and the wines did not disappoint. Super Dave volunteered to serve dinner for the 16 brave souls who ended up gobbling their dinner of Wasabi Ceasar salad, Herb roasted stuffed tenderloin, and John Kelly habanero-jalapeno fudge. This guy can cook! Although, admittedly,up until the first course hit the table, Greg had Campisi’s on his speed dial. But back to these liquid jewels….
2007 Body and Soul - This white is a blend of 71% Roussanne and 29% Viognier from the vineyards of 11 Confessions and Bien Nacido. Perfumed with orange blossoms along with honey, pear, and lemon verbena. Full-bodied, rich and luscious. 475 cases produced.
2009 Upside Down Grenache - This cuvee was a blend of 84% Grenache, 11% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre primarily from Krankl-owned 11 Confessions Vineyard. Interestingly, this wine was throwing a violet component although there is no Viognier in its cepage. Flamboyant and generous with aromas and flavors of strawberry liqueur, black cherry, red licorice, and plums. This is so delicious to drink now but I’d be interested to see what will happen to all these primary fruit with more bottle age. 1050 cases produced.
2004 Into the Dark Grenache - This was a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah, and 1% Viognier primarily the 11 Confessions Vineyard. This was the WOTN and deservedly so. Generous on the palate. Bigger and more depth than the youthful Upside Down but seemingly more elegant at the same time. Layered flavors of kirsch, cassis, blackberries along with dark licorice. Persistent finish.
2008 B-20 Syrah - 91% Syrah, 6% Grenache, and 3% Viognier made up the blend on this wine (50% 11 Confessions with the balance coming from Bien Nacidio, White Hawk, and the Krankls home vineyard, Cumulus). Sweet spice, dark berries, cherry liqueur, and plum notes. Full and lush.
2007 Labels Syrah - 89% Syrah, 7% Grenache, 4% Viognier mostly from 11 Confessions. This was the reticent one when I first opened this set of wines. Firmly structured with black pepper, dark berries, plums, black currants, and a floral hint. I felt that this wine was all power right now – big tannins, big fruit, high acid – that it needs more time in bottle to better integrate and define all that flavor.
2003 Papa Syrah - 97% Syrah, 2% Mourvedre, and 1% Grenache made up this blend. This is a compelling Syrah marrying power and structure with fine-grained tannins and complex flavors. Notes of graphite, cocoa powder, black raspberries earth, roasted meat, dried herbs, baking spices. This was a close second to Into the Dark. 860 cases were produced.
2004 The Straw Man - 100% Semillon from the Brander Vineyard in Sta. Ynez. Mouth coating richness and luscious. Honey, apricot, brown sugar, creme brulee, and orange marmalade. This wine was remarkably balanced by a great core of acidity that kept the wine from being cloying. Robert Parker deemed this wine perfection giving it 100 points. 2500 half bottles were produced.
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