A Gem of Italy

By: AJ McClellan

As many of you know, I am a HUGE Italian wine fan. I spent two years selling nothing but Italian wines at Nove, and in that time there is one bottle that I always wanted to taste but never had the opportunity to. The legendary Soldera wine! This is, in my opinion, one of the best bottles produced out of Brunello and it is rare as all get out. Back in 2012 the cellars of this renowned winery were broken into and the taps on the 2007-2012 vintages were opened spilling out the precious juice of almost three quarters (about 62,000 Liters) of the six vintages…. Andrea Di Gisi, a disgruntled former employee, was later arrested and sentenced to four years in prison. Although if it was up to me the man should have received a much stiffer penalty….

After the travesty of 2012 Soldera is even more coveted and almost impossible to get a hold of. The wines never show up on the secondary market or auction house and whenever one is opened it is a gem to be cherished by all who have the opportunity to try it. Well, thanks to a very generous member I got to try a bottle of the 1998 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino last week, and WOW this wine is smoking good!

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The Soldera started with light rustic cherry, bacon fat, and a potpourri of dried flowers on the nose. Red raspberry explodes on the palate with dry, dusty cherry on the back. A subtle earthiness of morning dew blanketed by a thick fog let you know that you are in Italy. White truffles are growing in the damp earth under the moss trees on the forest floor with a touch of dried violets and dark red roses lighting up the background. Classic light nut skin twang and a long finish complete this wine. Bold silky tannins caress the tongue and dry the palate while the crisp acidity lights up your taste buds and brings this wine to life.

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A Ridiculous Thursday at Graileys

 

 

 

 

It was a rather fantastic day at Graileys last night with a full room of wine loving folks having a good time!

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I had six standouts that were all diverse selections of amazing flavor and depth. The 2005 Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc was as good of a Bordeaux Blanc from SHL as I have ever tasted. Honey, apple tart, light toffee, cream and piecrust. Very complex and full-bodied, with lively acidity and beautiful clove honey, red apple and lemon flavors. Long, balanced and very lively. A massive white. Layered, complex and beautiful. I got blinded by one of our newest members on a bottle of 2005 St. Innocent Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard that was a tough peg. I knew it was Pinot Noir but it had such structure and sweet fruit that I was baffled. This new member has impeccable taste and a very similar palate so it was a great eye-opener to keep me on my blinding toes. Dusty cherry, roses, sandstone, sandal wood, raspberry and spice mad this a real treat to drink. Next up the 2001 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Magnum was Classic Rhone funky stank love! New saddle leather, cigar smoke, roasted herbs, black truffles, underbrush, and blackberry as well as cherry fruit. It is a superb, earthy expression of this Mourvedre-dominated cuvee. Bravo! A generous member shared this with the group. The 2004 Guigal Chateau Ampuis Cote Rotie was a very elegant, exotic, aromatic expression of this world-class Cote Rotie-one of my favorites. Classic black fruits, pepper and smoke intermixed with notions of olive tapenade, underbrush and game. Beautifully complex, elegant and seamless. A drinking vintage of Ampuis that rocks. 1989 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was awesome in every way. This vineyard is a true First Growth of Napa and this one was drinking amazingly well. Chocolate covered cherries, mint, eucalyptus, tobacco, sweet currant and spice with evolved, caressing tannins and a lengthy finish. I love this wine! We finished with a perfect wine, the 2010 Le Dome from Jonathan Maltus and St. Emilion. This wine needed about 2 hours to truly open up, but it was worth the wait when it did! Blackberry and blueberry jam, violets, new saddle leather, white chocolate and spice. Extremely full-bodied without aggressiveness, this wine has extraordinary purity and richness as well as a blockbuster finish of close to a minute, yet is so flawless, seamless and compelling. It was an extremely generous member that popped this stunner and then only drank a little bit of it!  It was a great time!

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Other great wines from the night included:

1988 Camille Giroud Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes

1999 Paolo Scavino Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva Barolo from MAGNUM

1994 Bitouzet Corton Charlemagne – BAD

1999 Remoissenet Richebourg

2009 Gargiulo G Major 7 Cabernet Sauvignon

2013 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru

1998 Troplong Mondot

2001 Girardin Batard Montrachet

2007 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling

1991 Piguet Girardin Santanay 1er Cru Comme

NV Michel Gonet Brut

2008 Louis Latour Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts

2013 Aubert Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard

2007 Pepperbridge Reserve

1993 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon

1997 Paradigm Cabernet Sauvignon

2012 Futo OVSL

1999 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon

1990 Druid Wines Meursault Lemozin

1999 Domaine de La Vieille Julienne Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve

2008 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages

2009 Jack Quinn Cabernet Sauvignon

 

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Bubbles and Burg for the Fourth

We hope everyone had wonderful July 4th weekend!

We opened two extraordinary bottles of Champagne and sealed the night with a stellar red Burgundy. The 1998 Henriot Cuvee des Enchanteleurs was beautiful! A Prestige Cuvee from Henriot, equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from only Grand Cru villages, this Champagne was showing at the perfect place. Generously toasty in character from long lees ageing with glorious flavors of apple pie, baked pears, orange peel spice, with soft stonefruits of preserved apricots and white peach. There was a depth in the wine that blew me away. The pearls were ultra-creamy and completely filled the palate, while at the same time being extremely elegant and light-footed in style. The finish was just as lovely with notes of honey, light flint and white flowers tying the fruit together from the start. Such an amazing wine and what a breathtaking treat to start the July 4th weekend.

July 4th Champagne

2002 Piper Heidsieck Rare is a true Champagne gem. The deep flavors of toasted nuts, green and golden apples, green pears and sweet bread driven by Chardonnay with a strong backbone and additional aromatic lift from the Pinot Noir; this is a fine Champagne that will age in the cellar for decades to come. There were so many notes in this Champagne: spicy ginger, honey, sweet herbs, bright citrus and racy, briny minerals (but not in that weird ‘bad’ Grower Champagne kind of way).

2012 Claude Dugat

2012 Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin was a baby but after some time in the glass this cult Burg really rounded out, offering fleshy red and black cherries, loads of cinnamon and rose, red tea, Asian spice and fresh turned soil. The fruit was concentrated and intense; and overall, the wine had great structure and depth. This village Pinot Noir was bright, forceful, polished and immaculate.

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San Felice!

AJ McClellan

A slight rain started our day, but after the sun came out we opened the doors to discover a beautiful day sitting at a perfect 80 degrees. One of our members has had this 97 San Felice vertical pack in their cellar for almost 4 years! What better time to pop the bottles to see how they are drinking??

1997 San Felice Vigorello Big funk on the nose with barnyard and forest floor. The palate was massive with huge dusty cherry, crumbled chocolate, and prune. Loads of earth with black liquorish and crushed stone on the finish. Black currant and spice with wet earth and layers of earthy minerality.

1997 San Felice Poggio Rosso – Ripe blueberries and ripe plums up front with an underlying forest floor and spice. Lavender and red roses add floral complexity and a great earthy minerality finishes the wine out. Chewy tannins and a long finish tell a tale of quality.

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Bevan Cellars Outshines!

It was a quiet Wednesday here at Graileys but the Front Room was filled with great company and terrific bottles of wine. From fine Champagne to a flight of Pinot Noir and California Cabernet old and young, the night was a blessing in this these dog days of summer. Some of my favorite producers were opened last night, but the highlights of the evening took me for a surprise. From the Pinot Noirs, I would naturally (immediately) gravitate to Leroy, but the 2013 Bevan Cellars Rita’s Crown Vineyard Pinot crushed the Pinot Noir lineup. Generous, gorgeous cherry and pomegranate with incredibly gracious layers of sweet licorice, vanilla, cola and spice going into a finish that tied back the juicy fruit of the front palate. The ’09 Leroy Bourgogne Rouge is a beautiful bottle for the price and offers much more extracted fruit from the vintage with Leroy’s signature sweet herbal funk, while the Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Rouge Premier Cru Clos St. Jean was very elegant with brighter, tarter red fruits and soft rose.

 

Of the Cabernets, the 1999 Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was a handsome bottle- crushed granite, aged leather, dehydrated blood orange zest, dried violets and lavender, dried herbs with hints of dusty spice, red licorice and charred tobacco in the finish. The fruit was still there with dried raspberry, blackberry and preserved figs.

 

I can’t stop thinking about the 2012 Futo! This attention seeking Cabernet Sauvignon deserves all the great attention it receives. Flashy in fruit, powerful in structure, hedonistic yet in a profoundly graceful manner, the 2012 Futo OV|SL is one of the few that I recognize as the epitome of great Napa Cabernet.

 

I can’t finish the blog without writing about the 2002 Pol Roger Winston Churchill Champagne! One of my favorite Champagnes of the moment, this Champagne is regal to the core. Elegant pearls coat the palate with notes of sweet almonds, lemon meringue, baked golden apples and poached pear, with hints of ginger spice and white petals laced in. This is a Champagne that is not to be missed!

 

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NV Krug Grand Cuvee Champagne

2002 Pol Roger Winston Churchill Champagne

2006 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne

2009 Leroy Bourgogne Rouge

2012 Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cur Clos St. Jean Rouge

2013 Big Farm Table Willamette Pinot Noir

2010 Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2013 Bevan Cellars Santa Rita Hills Rita’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir

1999 Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

2012 Futo OV|SL

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Battle of the Blind Bordeaux

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Last Friday was going to be the “You She Me Yours, I’ll Show You Mine” tasting of 85s and 95s. Instead we decided to do a killer Blind Bordeaux Tasting of mostly 1990 Bordeaux with a splash of 1998. We failed to muster enough folks with the “rigid” vintage guidelines so 5 great members settled in while I served them 5 excellent Bordeaux blind and they ranked them all to find a winner. As these things often go, I had my own favorites that do not exactly correlate with the group opinion but the wines literally started tasting similar-especially the first two 1990s. The “Official Score” for the wines was as follows (with 1 being the best):

#1 Chateau Figeac Premier Grand Cru Classe B Saint Emilion

#2 Chateau Pichon Baron 2nd Growth Pauillac

#3 Chateau Palmer 3rd Growth Margaux

#4 Chateau Haut Brion 1st Growth Pessac Leognan

#5 Chateau Pape Clement Cru Class Pessac Leognan

I had the Palmer as #1 and the Figeac as #3. Great Bordeaux!

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Other great wines from the day included:

2002 Dom Ruinart Rose

2005 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva

1996 Dalla Valle Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

2009 Jack Quinn Cab

2012 Evening Land Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir

2012 Orin Swift Palermo Cab

2003 Leoville Barton

2004 Jones Family Cab

2000 Meo Camuzet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru – This was breathtaking!!

2003 Chateau d’Yquem

2008 Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi

 

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Von Winning in the Land of Dry Rieslings

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The day all of us acid loving sommeliers and great white wine lovers look forward to finally came upon Graileys on Thursday-we got our shipment of Deutsche Weisswein von sechs verschiedene Grosses Gewachs in ein ganz trockenisches Stil. Die sind ausgehtzeichnet!!! Or put another way, the Dry German Grand Cru Rieslings have arrived and they will literally blow you away! We had to open one to see how it was drinking (oh darn!) and the results were not disappointing in the slightest. We decanted the 2013 Von Winning Kieselberg Grosses Gewachs in Deidesheim in the Pfalz.  The Pfalz is called the Palitinate in English and this is a beautiful, ancient area. I used to live in this area of Germany for 2 years in the town of Worms on the Rhine River. Those were some fun days that I look back on fondly. Way before I knew how freaking awesome their wines were! The new(ish) movement in Germany’s warmer areas for Riesling (Pfalz, Nahe, Rheingau) is to craft dry riesling from the best plots of the best vineyards at extremely low yields under the Grosses Gewachs label – or Grand Cru. We drank 3 or 4 of these GGs in March and everyone was so floored we bought/sold them all in a day. This is round two and we bought more! This wine tasted like Grand Chablis on the palate with more slatey minerality on the extremely dry, expansive finish. The nose was exotic like great Riesling can be with citrus blossoms, lime, peach, apricot and even salt and sweat. There was a certain lemon/lime/cantaloupe sherbet thing for me that was killer. Beguiling, delicious and powerful-this stunning Grand Cru Riesling will drink like a champ for 30 years. These might be the best value in Grand Cru wine in the world!

After my Riesling euphoria we drank some other rocking wines. The 2000 Krug was as delicious as ever! This bottle of 2000 has a rather shy personality with a tilt toward subtlety, complexity, charm and openness. Autolytic and toasty with baked apples and pears, Krug is my favorite Champagne House today. Next up we had the 2004 Blankiet Estate Merlot Paradise Hills made by Helen Turley from a primo vineyard in Yountville. Exotic notes of crushed raspberries, violets, black cherry and mocha filled the glass and the tannins were silty smooth as the wine is drinking at its peak and was quite enjoyable. These Blankiet wines are pretty badass. We finished with a bottle of 2010 Switchback Ridge 100th Anniversary Blend that is 60 Cab Sauv / 40 Merlot and aged in French Oak for 24 months. Robert Foley crafts this stunner and this might be my 6th bottle to drink. That signature Foley nose of toasted nuts, chocolate, brambly black and red fruit and coffee bean exudes class from the glass. Slurpable and generous in every way. I can’t wait to see this wine evolve. All in all-a wonderful wine day at Graileys!

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Other Great wines from the evening included:

NV Krug Grande Cuvee

NV Krug Brut Rose

2006 Favia Cerro Sur

2009 Favia Cerro Sur

2012 Gargiulo Money Road Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon

2009 Jack Quinn Cabernet Sauvignon

2010 Tortuga Cab

2005 Buccella Cab from Magnum!

2003 Brovia Garblet Sue Barolo

1999 Dom Caillot Batard Montrachet (pre-moxed)

2013 Montagu Bacigalupi Pinot Noir

 

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A First Growth by Any Other Name Would Smell as Sweet

By: AJ McClellan

A first growth is always a special treat. They are some of the most coveted wines in the world and they always have a special mystique when the bottle hits the table. Yesterday, we not only got a chance to taste a first growth, we got a chance to taste three!

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1990 Dom Perignon – Pear cider with light apricot extract and some vanilla on the nose. Freshly rising bread with a dazzling acidity and succulent toasty notes backed by crushed almonds. Wonderfully complex with a montage of fruit. And a very long finish expressing honeysuckle and heavy  mineral notes.

1975 Lafite – The 75 Lafite was an interesting wine. The bottle started out with an impressive nose of wet earth, mossy log, prune, and a slight cedar note. The palate however was flat and uninspiring. I was hoping that with time the palate would come around but after almost two hours in the glass the wine only marginally improved.

1970 Lafite – The 70 Lafite was showing much more life than the 75 right out of the bottle. The nose was more expressive, showing notes of dried leaves, black fruit, dark chocolate and olives. While the palate did take some time to come around. It started off with an old wet gym sock flavor that was off putting. After a few minutes in the glass the palate started to show more fruit and the old moldy smell morphed into a pleasant damp forest floor. While this wine was very pleasant to drink I would recommend drinking it in the next few years as I feel that it is edging towards the end of its life.

2002 Latour – The 02 Latour was extremely tight compared to the two older first growths. Showing bright red currants, raspberry, and cherry this wine had a beautiful nose, but the palate was all tannin. I could pick very little earth off the wine and even after allowing it to open up for several hours the wine never became very expressive.

Of all the wines, I would say it was a tie between the 90 Dom and the 70 Lafite for wine of the night. Like trying to judge between a fantastic apricot and a beautiful plum, the wines were just to different to pick a clear winner… But it sure was fun trying to!

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A Couple of Favorites, White and Red

Last night a bottle of one of our favorite Chablis producers that we enjoy in every level, from quaffing down during the summer heat to thoroughly enjoying with fresh seafood and meals on the patio with friends: Domaine William Fevre. The word Chablis in itself can be a turn-off; but in today’s world of fine wine, I assure you- William Fevre is NOT that giant box of Chablis that was in the kitchens of the past.
Sharp, precise and quality driven, these Chardonnays beautifully exhibit the vineyard from which they came.

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The 2012 William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume was a lean, clean, lime machine. What I love about this Chablis is that it comes from a strong Premier Cru vineyard just above the seven Grand Crus, sharing similar soils type and aspect; thus offering a distinct depth that mimics the big boys in great vintages. From lime zest to lime flowers, crunchy green apples to crushed oyster shells, the brilliant minerality and crispiness of the wine will have you going back for more. If anything, it will for sure brace your appetite for the next meal. Oysters and Chablis, it’s a classic for a reason. The nutty, briny elements of the oyster pairs perfectly with the flinty, wet rock notes of Chablis; while the acidity cuts through the oysters’ fatty, oily meat. Sushi, tartars, seafood Carpaccio and heavier crudités would be great too! (Clearly I am hungry).

 

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If you’ve made it this far, I thank you and dare you to try the next one: 2013 Deinhard Von Winning Diedelsheimer Kieselberg Riesling GG. Are you still there?… Hopefully I didn’t lose you through all those German words tagged with the word Riesling at the end. I’m going to be honest, this is not the wine for every palate; but for those who love dry white wine, Von Winning is definitely one to try. Bone-dry in style and like the Chablis it offered crisp flavors of lime and lemon smashed over river rocks and flint, with hints of white peach, apple blossoms and a touch of bee’s wax. The minerality and the acidity was razor sharp, but the overall wine still very balanced with a powerful backbone as brawny as any bottle of red. Don’t let the white wine fool you, you will be surprised with the capability of this little Riesling to evolve magnificently in the cellar along with your top Cabernets.

2013 von winning GG

For the best of dry Rieslings from Grand Cru sites, look for the GG!

Going into reds we had a table loaded with- please forgive my lack of professional wine terminology on this one- killer California juicy goodness. From 2010 Switchback Ridge Anniversary Red Blend to 2012 Gargiulo Vineyards Money Road Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, it was a great showing of stellar full bodied, California red wines. Of the lineup, we compared two Favia Cerro Sur bottles of different vintages: 2006 and 2009. It is always a good day when Favia is on the table and both vintages were smoking! The 2006 with darker fruits, deeper gravel tones, more depth and concentration; while the 2009 had a lifting breath of juicy red toned fruits, aromatic florals and slate. Both wines were incredibly sexy in a most sophisticated fashion: dark chocolate, warm blackberry and mulberry pie, along with toasted vanilla and hints of tobacco and leather.

Favia Cero Sur 2006 and 2009

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Birthday at Graileys

By: AJ McClellan

June is always a fun month at Graileys. We have 3 of our brokers birthdays all within a week of each other, and you know our members never need much of an excuse to open stunning bottles of wine. Around the table a slew of epic wines were opened and shared each bottle getting better than the last.

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2004 Bollinger Grande Annee – This 04 was showing fresh green apple, peach, and a crisp acidity when we first opened it up. After some time in the glass the wine started to put on some weight and gaining more of a yeasty character. The wine finished with  a slight nuttiness and a pleasant citrus nuance.

1996 Leroy Pommard Les Vignots – This wine never fails to disappoint. The bottle is still young and fresh showing big red fruits with a slight spiciness. Red cinnamon, liquorish, and star anise follow the bust of red cherry and raspberry. Subtle black tea notes come out after the wine has been in the glass for a while with a slight wheat notes. The palate is stunning with classic Burgundy notes and a long complex finish of mixed fruits and earth.

2008 Ausone – Pure power… I am intrigued with the 08’s so far. This Bordeaux tasted more like a killer bottle of Harlan than a rustic Bordeaux. Many of the 08’s I have tasted have been similar. Showing very well while young with big fruit and slightly lacking in the earth area. Big cherry cough syrup with black fruits were exploding from the glass. There was a note of soft leather and big tobacco that lingered on the back end. The wine was big in the mouth with a heavy weight. Very complex with a great finish.

2003 Pichon Lalande - I am a huge fan of the 03 vintage and the 03 Pichon in particular. However, this bottle was a little shut down with damp fruit and over powering tannins. I think this wine may just be going through a muted period, give it a few months and I think it will be back in full form.

1990 Pichon Baron – Big smoke and meat. The fruit is ripe and forward with a slight iron backing. I thought it was Cali cab on first whiff but once you get into the wine it is all Bordeaux. Great earth on the palate with a black liquorish on the backend. The finish is powerful black fruit with soft earth.

1988 Ducru Beaucaillou - Classic Bordeaux with ripe red fruits and apple pie cooking spices. Very earthy with soft tannins that feel like they are on the edge of non-existence. Pipe tobacco and leather on the palate with a long finish of dried red apples and raisins.

2010 Sine Qua Non Five Shooter Grenache - As always massive fruit with a complex spice aroma backed by Cote Rotie like earth and smokiness.

1996 Leoville Las Cases – When first opened the wine was quite tight but after a good three hours the nose opened to show black currants, leather, smoke, and tilled earth. The palate was hard but in balance with a great structure.

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