By: AJ McClellan
As many of you know, I am a HUGE Italian wine fan. I spent two years selling nothing but Italian wines at Nove, and in that time there is one bottle that I always wanted to taste but never had the opportunity to. The legendary Soldera wine! This is, in my opinion, one of the best bottles produced out of Brunello and it is rare as all get out. Back in 2012 the cellars of this renowned winery were broken into and the taps on the 2007-2012 vintages were opened spilling out the precious juice of almost three quarters (about 62,000 Liters) of the six vintages…. Andrea Di Gisi, a disgruntled former employee, was later arrested and sentenced to four years in prison. Although if it was up to me the man should have received a much stiffer penalty….
After the travesty of 2012 Soldera is even more coveted and almost impossible to get a hold of. The wines never show up on the secondary market or auction house and whenever one is opened it is a gem to be cherished by all who have the opportunity to try it. Well, thanks to a very generous member I got to try a bottle of the 1998 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino last week, and WOW this wine is smoking good!
The Soldera started with light rustic cherry, bacon fat, and a potpourri of dried flowers on the nose. Red raspberry explodes on the palate with dry, dusty cherry on the back. A subtle earthiness of morning dew blanketed by a thick fog let you know that you are in Italy. White truffles are growing in the damp earth under the moss trees on the forest floor with a touch of dried violets and dark red roses lighting up the background. Classic light nut skin twang and a long finish complete this wine. Bold silky tannins caress the tongue and dry the palate while the crisp acidity lights up your taste buds and brings this wine to life.