Another stellar week at Graileys; but come to think of it, I cannot recall ever having a bad one since I walked into this crazy, windowless world of Graileys. With the first month complete and plans for the up and coming months in play, Graileys just keeps getting better and better. After a great Barbour Vineyards tasting on the last Friday of January, we christened February with a Ruinart Champagne tasting where we opened Magnums of Ruinart’s Prestige Cuvee: Dom Ruinart 1998 and 2004 Blanc de Blancs and 2002 Rose. The Rose was my favorite from the flight: vibrant red fruits of raspberries, juicy pomegranate, and strawberry tart with brilliant notes of lemon and cinnamon spice that kept this rich Rose Champagne pulsating to the last drop. Another Champagne that was a highlight of the week was the 1990 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs. It had great weight, strong structure, and wonderfully balanced with toasty notes of warm brioche, baked pear, green apple, field flowers and spice.
There were two whites that struck me the most, both white Burgundies from the most celebrated producers of their appellations, but from completely polar appellations and styles. Way to the north in Chablis, the 2004 Francois Ravenneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot was incredibly impressive. Steely, minerally, and loaded with seasoned lime, this Chardonnay is the traditional epitome of Chablis. It’s well integrated flavors were profound beyond what one could imagine Chardonnay could ever be. One of the most traditional in style and going onto its third generation, the Ravenneau family doesn’t hold back on quality in their Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards and wines. Going way south into the other great Chardonnay land of the Montrachets- the 1993 Pierre Morey Batard Montrachet Grand Cru was phenomenal. Rich, round, and powerful, this heavy hitter Chardonnay had aged gracefully with class. It was bready, weighty, and creamy, but not overwhelming and artificial like some new world Chardonnays can be.
Going into the reds, there were three that I just can’t stop thinking about. The 2010 Sine Qua Non Five Shooter Syrah, the 2001 Palmaz Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 1987 Petrus, yes I said Petrus. Opened from magnum, the Five Shooter was outstanding!! Commanding attention, but not obnoxiously, with balanced brooding ripe fruits, graphite, tar, and spice, this powerful Syrah blew us all away!
The 2001 Palmaz Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon kicked my ass. This is one of the memorable wine moments which I will forever reflect upon, especially during my blind tasting exam. I was blinded this wine by AJ and I called it an extremely warm vintage Bordeaux, 2003, based on its higher-alcohol, concentrated fruit, and deep gravel minerals which was dominant in the mid-palate. Clearly, I was wrong. It was Napa Cab. A very elegant, beautifully balanced, Napa Cab that I thoroughly enjoyed. In my defense, the 2001 Palmaz has only 13.6% alcohol, very similar to the level of alcohol seen in Bordeaux compared to California’s 15+ and was pretty minerally for a Napa Cabernet. In the end, lesson learned, and this Palmaz was awesome- a completely different Napa style, but a truly amazing bottle of wine.
The last red of the night was a bottle of 1987 Petrus, by the very gracious and generous Mr. Stuart. This was my first Petrus experience and it was mind-blowing!! Perfectly preserved, deep red fruits, matured leather and completely silky tannins; this bottle was loaded with complex savory flavors, truffles, damp earth, and softened spice. A complete treat and one of the best that has been opened at Graileys yet.
Other Wines from the Night
NV Jose Dhondt Blanc de Blancs Champagne
NV Ruinart Rose Reims Champagne
NV Chartogne-Taillet Les Barres Extra Brut Merfy Champagne
2003 Vilmart & Cie Coeur de Cuvee Rilly de Montagne Premier Cru Champagne
2012 Journeyman Sonomoa Coast Chardonnay
2010 Joullian Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay
2012 En Route Russian River Valley, Les Pommiers Pinot Noir
2002 Jean Boillot Les Beaune Premier Cru LEs Epenottes
2005 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva Rioja
2000 Gruaud Larose
2010 Gaja Sperss
1996 Allegrini Amarone Classico
2010 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon
1999 Stags Leap Cask 23
2012 Perfect Season Cabernet Sauvginon