Jamonero at Graileys

By Simon Roberts

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When a member walks in with a whole leg of Jamon Iberico over his shoulder and there is a 2007 Guigal Cote Rotie ‘La Mouline’ already open, you know it is going to be a good one. Tasting that wine with thinly sliced Iberico was a superb experience, but what made it even better was the people sitting around the table and the conversation that flowed afterwards. If anybody epitomizes the Graileys feel, it was the gang gathered around the table that day. John Wall, the generous Jamon donor, is just recently back from a trip to Spain where we set him up with a memorable visit to Vega Sicilia. As he sipped his pour of La Mouline,  he told us all about his Spainish escapades at the winery. DD, coincidentally, had opened the Vega Sicilia Reserve Especial, which was a monster of a wine. Even with a two hour decant, this wine didn’t move. This was just way too young to drink now and badly needs more cellar time. At least the Guigal was magic in a glass; pure pepper on the nose with a rich, creamy, vanilla core and superb depth, balance and layers of flavors. Guigal when on like this is always steals the show, until  Brad hits his locker and pulls a 1957 Chateau Montrose. LA, Greg and AJ, all of whom had been working hard finalizing a three day inventory, finally sauntered over to the table. The Montrose was still alive showing plenty of fruit. There was a little browning on the edge but still ohh-so-good; this was definitely a well stored old Bordeaux. Dinner plans were hastily made. Suddenly, John pulled a magnum of 1989 Latour and DD fished out a NV Krug Rose from his locker. I know I just had to add to the party and so I threw in a magnum of 1992 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. We all head out to eat at Cedars Social, ordered some great plates and poured away. The 1989 Latour has improved significantly since my last time tasting it. This magnum was pure Paulliac with pencil lead nose, soft sweet tannins and all the flavors that make a first growth great. The Krug was well…. Krug. Perfect balanced and superb acidity with toasty nuances and tiny, fine bubbles. The 1992 Ponsot Clos de La Roche from magnum was a stunner. It poured into the glass like silk, vibrant for the vintage with smoke, earth and musty mushroom flavors. This was an exceptional night at Graileys and afterwards. You just don’t know what will happen on any given night.

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