By: Simon Roberts
A couple of collectors joined Dave and I on our first dinner tasting in Chef Harlan Goldstein’s Gold Restaurant which went off very well in true Graileys fashion. Our group gathered to enjoy a fun night of wine and conversation and absolutely superb food pairings created by Chef Harlan.
Our first course of Japanese crab and biretta Salad with apricot and hazelnut vinaigrette was paired with a sensational 1999 Leflaive Batard Montrachet. A knockout nose of mineral and wet stone was backed up with a pure, laser- like citrus mouthfeel, mango, lemon zest and apple nuances kept building leaving a lasting taste. The wine got better in the glass as it sat taking on a more rounded and complete wine after 20 minutes.
Our second course was a new Harlan creation inspired by a recent trip to New York. Chicken meat balls with Spanish red onions and Piquillo peppers on a bed of tzatziki yogurt. This was indeed an inspired dish that was paired with a 1999 Hudelot Richebourg. This is a big wine taking on some very big flavors on the plate. The Richebourg was a perfect match, with a smoky pinot nose and flavors of Indian spice, deep and velvety cherry nuances all wrapped up with that telltale Richebourg earthiness. Another winning combo.
Course three was one of Harlan’s signature dishes, a Tagliatelle with Tasmanian Black winter Truffle and porcini mushrooms. Or should I say small pasta with more truffle than I have ever had on one plate! This is some dish and the second time I have tried it here. It is fast becoming one of my favorites. This was paired with 1982 Latour. Go big or go home right! Two words for this match….Pure Decadence! The Latour was just singing straight out of the glass, cedar, forest floor, perfect balance and one of the best finishes on a wine that I have tasted in years. A wow pairing and a simply crazy experience.
Last up, or so we thought was the best dish of the night, A Saga Pork combo that was just rocking good. One piece was cooked with a spicy romesco sauce while the second piece was a glazed crispy testa salsa verd, melt in the mouth piece of meat. This was a serious plate of food that went so well with the 2009 Sine Qua Non The Thrill of it Syrah. Pure magic! How Manfred Krankl fashions these wines and gets them tasting like this when young is beyond me. It was decanted for two hours and was just a cornucopia of flavors. Cote Rotie flavors of bacon fat paired perfectly with crispy pork. This wine with this dish was a marriage made in heaven .The SQN was a thrill, just like the bottle says, a memorable wine and food pairing.
Last but not least, Foie Gras with french toast and maple vinegar glaze, not for the faint of heart this dish. Rich and perfectly seared, I toyed with this plate for ages. Why not, the night got crazy as I did, popping a few more gems. A 1991 Dujac Clos St Denis, a 1999 Leroy Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts and a 2004 SQN Rejuvenator…topped off with a gin and tonic and an 1981 Chateau D’Yquem. You get the picture……Hong Kong…. I love this town.