By Simon Roberts
Patrick Piuze, one of our favorite winemakers was in town a few weeks back and visited Graileys to taste us on his 2010 and 2011 Chablis. The wines were, as always, spectacular. We dropped by Boulevardier for dinner after the tasting that day with importer Todd Mathis and a great idea was born… why don’t you come to Chablis? Fast forward three weeks and I find myself, with a hangover, driving from Paris with a great friend and Graileys member Mauricio towards Chablis, a picture book French village just and hour and thirty minutes from the center of Paris. Along the way, we stopped and walked around the sleepy town of Auxerre.
A couple of hair of the dog beers were in order after a night of shenanigans in Paris and what was in store was in fact, far more. I was served what was most definitely one of the best meals I have ever had at Mauricio’s mate’s place, Fred.
The plate of Pasta Gamba bathed in garlic, mushroom and virgin olive oil was a simple but very delicious meal. Maybe it was the vibe, the view, the people or perhaps the 2001 Sassicaia and the 1999 San Leonardo Super Tuscan along with copious shots of tequila we drank or all of the above but I was clearly paying for a memorable night all the way to Chablis.
The hair of the dog worked wonders and it was onward to Chablis, just 15 minutes down the country roads from Auxerre. Patrick was waiting for us right outside his cellars as we drove past but luckily he flagged us down.
Patrick’s winery was a hive of activity. We walked past the 2011 vintage getting labeled and boxed as he motioned us all upstairs where he had a table set and ready for lunch.
Patrick’s winery and cellars are spartan; old school and and real with no airs and graces and shiny tasting rooms. Lunch was a hoot and started with a bottle of 2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grenouilles that showed pure power allied with elegance. The balance suggested these wines will age effortlessly. Patrick’s chef had prepared a wonderful lunch of wrapped Turbot over field greens followed by a lamb dish that was worthy of a Michelin star. Naturally, the wines flowed as did the stories amongst guests that included winemaker Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat. Jim is an acknowledged pioneer that put Santa Barbara on the wine map as a prime source of fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. He was the perfect lunch guest; he was fun and full of character much like his own, superb wines. We tasted through Patrick’s other vintages including a 2009 Patrick Piuze Vaillons-Les Minot that was stunning and really had everybody talking; only 37 cases were produced though. Ces’t La Vie!
Patrick next opened a 2004 Tetre Rotebouef that was drinking well as was the magnum of NV Laurent Perrier Rose that was quickly polished off as a palate cleanser before we headed down for some barrel tastings deep underneath the road, through a tunnel to what looked like a haunted, horror crypt filled with wine barrels and dusty bottles.
It was absolutely an awesome experience being in the company of the musty bottles buried in the tunnels of this two century-old cellar. Based on the tasting, you know I will be picking up as much as I can of Patrick’s last few vintages as well as 2012. I got the inside scoop from a great winemaker-to-watch and it was one of the most refreshing winery visits I have ever had the pleasure of doing. It was real, just like Patrick and his wines.