By Simon Roberts
Holy Schnikes was the phrase of the day yesterday as a slow day very quickly turned into a Graileys classic. A nice little deal was struck on a small collection of Leroy wines mid-afternoon. As part of quality control, we popped the cork on the 1993 Leroy Beaune Perrieres; it was very thin on the palate at first although it did blossom into a really interesting wine over the evening with great bouquet and tangy acidity. That said, it was up against some very hefty competition as the evening progressed.
You just never know what is going to happen here on any given day. Who knew that a rainy, dreary Tuesday in Dallas was going to be one for the books. Dave was in town and after a pretty heavy Monday night, a pick-me-upper was in order. Just one for the road before his flight back to Phoenix… famous last words in Graileys, just one…. And it was a magical one! Probably one of the top 10 wines opened in the last 12 months, a 2000 Leroy Romanee St Vivant! Pure liquid decadence in a bottle. Matt J sipped, I sipped, we all sipped and wow… wine in the true sense of the word. Perfumed with penetrating nose of incense, dried lavender, violet, coriander with a core of tangy red fruits (pomegranate, dried cranberry, red currant, wild berries). Full, opulent with tremendous depth and verve.
Next up was James R who promptly ordered a nice white Burgundy. A.J obliged with a killer pull from the cellar, a 1998 Bouchard Montrachet La Cabotte. It seemed reduced initially throwing sulphury note reminiscent of a freshly struck match and gun flint. It did blow off revealing more appealing aromas of pear drop, sweet vanilla, orchard fruit, acacia, minerals and a mid-palate that was rich and dense. Well-structured with richness and fruit depth that was impressively balanced by a zippy acidity.
And just for shits and grins, James R likewise opened a 1975 Latour. Why not, it is Fat Tuesday right? Smoke, tar, charcoal and graphite notes screamed out of the bottle with a core of black fruits reminiscent of blackberries and plums. Very firmly structured with grippy tannins.
Not to be outdone, Matt J pops open a 1983 Salon which took us all on a whole new tangent. We thought it was showing classic oxidative character from the wine’s pale amber appearance to the aromas of hay, nuts, honey but it definitely had some energy on the palate. We wanted to love this wine so much, we kept sniffing, but we eventually cut our losses.
It does get crazy competitive here at Graileys on occasion, all in the pursuit of the best juice. This afternoon was certainly going that direction. James R suggested sharing a bottle of 1971 Dom Perignon… ha ha ha…. I just love this place and those days of stunning, crazy, full-on Graileys. Creamy textured, rich yet elegant with very fine bubbles that caressed every inch of your palate. Packed with layers and layers of flavors -toast, biscuit, hazelnuts, brioche, oatmeal, honey, yeast. Amazing flavor intensity and a very long finish.
So, longingly glancing at the much-discussed 1983 Salon, Matt J raises the stakes again with a 1992 Dom Perignon Oenotheque Rose that blew everybody away. Seductive, delicate salmon pink in appearance. Essence of mushrooms, bread dough, biscuit, wild berries, a touch of floral and cotton candy on the nose and palate. Fleshy and creamy textured; structured; very vibrant. Still youthful but a joy to drink now nonetheless.
Lee, a member’s guest, got sucked into this circus and promptly opened a bottle of 2000 Krug Clos du Mesnil. This was definitely a baby. But the potential for greatness, at least 15 years down the road, was undeniable. Tightly-wound with a girdle of acidity that framed its structure. On the palate, it was like sucking on limestone topped with citrus peel. Enormous mid-palate with laser-like focus. Very dry, full-bodied with complex aromas and flavors of lime blossom, chamomille, toasted hazelnuts, citrus, chalk, orchard fruit, flinty minerality… this is THE essence of Chardonnay in all its glory.
Sitting here having a laugh and indulging in this line up of wines on a dreary Tuesday is what the good life is all about. All of these wines changed over the course of a few hours as did the conversation. The small group that gathered and enjoyed this ever such a spontaneous tasting made for a great Tuesday. A Fat Tuesday wholly defined.