By: LA Perkel
Last night was a proper Graileys night when we were mobbed by enthusiastic members in for an epic Sine Qua Non tasting and the wines did not disappoint. Super Dave volunteered to serve dinner for the 16 brave souls who ended up gobbling their dinner of Wasabi Ceasar salad, Herb roasted stuffed tenderloin, and John Kelly habanero-jalapeno fudge. This guy can cook! Although, admittedly,up until the first course hit the table, Greg had Campisi’s on his speed dial. But back to these liquid jewels….
2007 Body and Soul - This white is a blend of 71% Roussanne and 29% Viognier from the vineyards of 11 Confessions and Bien Nacido. Perfumed with orange blossoms along with honey, pear, and lemon verbena. Full-bodied, rich and luscious. 475 cases produced.
2009 Upside Down Grenache - This cuvee was a blend of 84% Grenache, 11% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre primarily from Krankl-owned 11 Confessions Vineyard. Interestingly, this wine was throwing a violet component although there is no Viognier in its cepage. Flamboyant and generous with aromas and flavors of strawberry liqueur, black cherry, red licorice, and plums. This is so delicious to drink now but I’d be interested to see what will happen to all these primary fruit with more bottle age. 1050 cases produced.
2004 Into the Dark Grenache - This was a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah, and 1% Viognier primarily the 11 Confessions Vineyard. This was the WOTN and deservedly so. Generous on the palate. Bigger and more depth than the youthful Upside Down but seemingly more elegant at the same time. Layered flavors of kirsch, cassis, blackberries along with dark licorice. Persistent finish.
2008 B-20 Syrah - 91% Syrah, 6% Grenache, and 3% Viognier made up the blend on this wine (50% 11 Confessions with the balance coming from Bien Nacidio, White Hawk, and the Krankls home vineyard, Cumulus). Sweet spice, dark berries, cherry liqueur, and plum notes. Full and lush.
2007 Labels Syrah - 89% Syrah, 7% Grenache, 4% Viognier mostly from 11 Confessions. This was the reticent one when I first opened this set of wines. Firmly structured with black pepper, dark berries, plums, black currants, and a floral hint. I felt that this wine was all power right now – big tannins, big fruit, high acid – that it needs more time in bottle to better integrate and define all that flavor.
2003 Papa Syrah - 97% Syrah, 2% Mourvedre, and 1% Grenache made up this blend. This is a compelling Syrah marrying power and structure with fine-grained tannins and complex flavors. Notes of graphite, cocoa powder, black raspberries earth, roasted meat, dried herbs, baking spices. This was a close second to Into the Dark. 860 cases were produced.
2004 The Straw Man - 100% Semillon from the Brander Vineyard in Sta. Ynez. Mouth coating richness and luscious. Honey, apricot, brown sugar, creme brulee, and orange marmalade. This wine was remarkably balanced by a great core of acidity that kept the wine from being cloying. Robert Parker deemed this wine perfection giving it 100 points. 2500 half bottles were produced.