By: AJ McClellan
Marcassin is Helen Turleys baby, purchased in 1985 with money borrowed from her husband’s mother. The vineyard is perfect for growing world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Marcassin is French for “young wild boar” and the name of the vineyard was inspired by a dinner that Helen and John shared of roasted boar paired with red Burgundy in San Francisco. All of the Marcassin wines are made in Martinelli’s winery which lies to the south east of the Marcassin vineyard.
1993 Marcassin Lorenzo Chardonnay – This is a brilliant display of Californian Chardonnay! Wild spring flowers and warm spices on the nose with hints of whole vanilla beans and a waterfall of caramel. The palate was fascinating and extremely complex. First was the rich honey comb and floral notes that made the wine feel dense in the mouth. Then you got hints of tropical pineapple, white peaches, and caramelized pears which carried on over a minute plus finish. Amazing balance and great finish. This wine reminds me of a great Montrachet.
1997 Marcassin Upper Barn Chardonnay – While the 93 Lorenzo was drinking like a Montrachet the 97 Upper Barn reminds me of a great Corton. Toasty popcorn with lemon/lime zest and hints of butterscotch on the nose. The palate had a great limestone minerality with a field of white flowers and roasted almonds. Again that great balance and finish…
1999 Marcassin Three Sisters Chardonnay – The 99 was a little disconjointed with a hard acidity and ruff oak. That being said, in any other tasting it would have won the wine of the night award. Ripe melons with a slight grassiness and a touch of brine or sea salt on the finish.
2004 Marcassin Vineyard Chardonnay – This wine was interesting in the fact that there was a slight haze to the wine. All of the Chardonnays are unfined and unfiltered but this one had that slight haze to it where the other wines were clear… Again this Chard reminded me of a great Burgundian wine with a slight popcorn nose and a great toasty finish. There was a slight tinge of graham cracker and freshly baked sugar cookies lingering in the background with a finish of cedar and pine.
1999 Marcassin Vineyard Pinot Noir – Granit minerality with a damp soil backing served with dry plums dusted with cinnamon and crushed cloves. This was indeed an interesting wine with a slight bramble and boysenberry note on the nose moving into black raspberries on the palate with a scent on the finish that reminded me of old books…
2001 Marcassin Blue Slide Ridge Pinot Noir – The 01 was a little hot on the nose but this quickly blew off to revile wild black fruits with blueberries and blackberries bringing up the rear. There was also a pleasant aroma of mom’s kitchen with bay leaves, clove, vanilla, cinnamon, and lavender. The finish had a great earthy note with damp forest floor and old moldy log.
2003 Marcassin Vineyard Pinot Noir – A bouquet of fresh wild berries and flowers greeted me when I put my nose to the glass on this stupendous wine. Complex earth and wet soil mingled with truffles and soy sauce leading to blueberry pie. The finish came full circle exploding with Morning Glories, Forget-Me-Not’s, Bluebonnets, and clover. Fantastic balance with soft supple tannins and an unforgettable finish.
2005 Marcassin Three Sisters Pinot Noir – This was a dark brooding Pinot with black tea and scorched earth. Big black fruit on the nose with blackberries, black currants, and black cherries. There was a slight spice on the backend with juniper, lavender, and a hint of pepper.
What amazed me about this tasting was the fact that we had 4 Chardonnays and 4 Pinot Noirs all from the same producer but all completely different and very expressive of their terrior…