By: AJ McClellan
Above, from left: Simon Roberts (partner/owner Graileys), Ann Colgin and husband Joe Wender of Colgin Cellars, and Dave Stearns (partner/owner Graileys).
The owner of Colgin, Ann Colgin, came in today to taste us on her 2006 vintage of IX Syrah and Proprietary Red. Ann is a Texas girl who views winemaking as a form of art and I could not agree with her more. Her love for wine and the subtle brushstrokes that make a painting into a masterpiece show through in her winemaking.
In addition to producing cult California wines, Ann and her husband, Joe Wender, also have a love affair with Burgundy as they are part of a consortium that bought the famous negociant house – Camille Giroud.
2006 Colgin IX Syrah – With vines from Cote Rotie and Hermitage it is no wonder that this wine has a distinctive Rhone touch while still being unmistakably Californian. We decanted this wine two hours before service, and after tasting it I believe that it needed an additional four. Massive on the nose with heavy brush strokes of baked blueberries, candied plums, and forest floor, it had a lighter touch on the back, adding detail and depth with burnt cloves, cinnamon, crushed rock, and black pepper all falling into place to make a beautiful masterpiece. The palate was superb with smoked cedar, bramble, red roses, vegetable matter, and green bell peppers. With huge chewy tannins that were in no way hard but very soft this wine has great aging potential and I would love to see what it will be doing in another 15 years. Parker gave this wine a 93 but I must disagree; this wine was without a doubt the best Californian Syrah I have ever had.
2006 Colgin IX Proprietary Red – A perfect 100 point score from Parker, and after tasting the wine I can see why he liked it. This Bordeaux style blend showed off huge fruit up front with blackberry jam and massive overripe strawberries. The oak aging was also very prevalent with roasted vanilla bean, sage, and a cabinet full of cooking spices. A colossal palate consisting of ripe bing cherry, freshly picked wildberries, and a minerality of tall redwood trees and concrete. I am happy to report that the wine was fully dry with no residual sugar left in the wine.
1997 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard – A special treat from one of our members, a bottle made by Colgin from Mr. Herb Lamb’s vineyard. Blueberries and light blackberries on the nose with a touch of forest floor and cherry cobbler. The palate was spicy with cinnamon, allspice, dill, and peppercorns. There was also a subtle minutiae of coconut husk, clove, white pepper, and black tea. With great balance and symmetry this wine was a perfect example of what the former two could be in another ten years.
