By: LA Perkel
It was a smorgasbord-of-wine-kind-of-night, with a 2008 DRC Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru ‘Cuvee Duvault-Blochet’ serving as opening act early in the day. Lifted aromatics of tobacco, minerals, pomegranate, tea rose, red cherries, plums and a palate that was rich and luscious, dense and velvety showing some tannins in the back end. Finish had a touch of rose petals and a persistent length. Needs time to resolve some of the tannins, but perfectly enjoyable now for its fresh, well-integrated acidity and sexy texture. This cuvee isn’t produced every year. Its debut vintage was 1934, made a reappearance in 1999, was bottled again in 2008, and once again in 2009. This is a product of younger vines or second passes in the vineyards that are then blended and vinified as Cuvee Duvault-Blochet. On years that the wine isn’t bottled, the juice is simply sold off.
Next, I decanted a bottle of 2001 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino. Dark and saturated ruby/purple core hinted at this wine’s powerful structure. Intense tar, smoke, black cherries, and tobacco characterized the aromas. The palate was compact, firm, and tight. This needed a lot of air. Fortunately, we had time on our side. The wine’s owner was not going to be back at Graileys for another four hours. Score! Fast forward four hours, the wine showed a more opulent palate, more fruit intensity, and complexity. Hint of dried herbs, plums, cured meat and minerals. But it was still aggressively tannic for casual drinking sans food. A big slab of dry-aged porterhouse or bone-in ribeye will certainly melt those tannins. Or additional five years in the cellar. Excellent wine, just not ready for prime time.
As palate cleanser, a 2000 Remoissenet Montrachet ‘Cuvee Thenard’ was poured. I love the subtle power of this wine. Acacia, stone fruits, citrus, and a hint of minerality. Broadly textured, smooth and refined balanced by a vibrant acidity that further lengthens that incredible finish. A memorable Chardonnay. The 2007 Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru ‘Sous Le Dos d’Ane’ that came next was a dramatically different rendition of Chardonnay. The Meursault had a discernible oaky vanilla to the nose than the Montrachet. It seemed riper on the palate as well with pear, white peach, lemon, quince flavors along with a touch of pineapple on the finish. A 2003 Jadot Clos Vougeot was opened next. It was ripe with intense dried cherries, plums, sweet spice, oak, roasted coffee and undergrowth. Noticeable sweetness of fruit. Fleshy and dense on the palate. The 2001 Jadot Bonnes-Mares also hit the table and I really liked the nose on this wine; perfumed with bright black raspberrie, cherries, and spice on the front and more savory notes of leather and cedar hovering in the background. Nice hint of minerality. Seemed more together than the Clos Vougeot and fresher in its plush palate. The 1997 Christian Remoissenet Romane-St-Vivant was up next. It was muted and hot at the same time. With air, the palate did show a roasted cherry, damp earth, and stewed plums. It seemed flat and it just fell off on the finish. Didn’t like this wine. The New World was represented by the 2009 Chateau Boswell Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I enjoyed this wine’s upfront aromas of black cherries, cassis, mocha, and a touch of floral note. Rounded mouthfeel, supple and well-integrated tannins. Cassis-filled finish. This wine is drinking well now providing pleasure with its ripe fruitiness and opulent texture.