By: LA Perkel
Tuesday afternoon was action packed in terms of the quality of the wines we had opened. Although our first bottle, a 1990 Salon, was oh-so-subtly corked, that didn’t dissuade us from forging on. And when the 1989 Veuve Clicquot ‘La Grande Dame’ was opened with its charming baby fat showing along with its lip-smacking acidity on the palate, life was great again. Full and rich with upfront flint and mineral notes layered with toast, pear, white peach, honey, brioche and citrus notes. Elegant fizz, great flavor depth, and impeccable balance. And what length… this wine has a long life ahead. We opened a 2007 Rayas Chateauneuf-du-Pape next and this wine was expressive and opulent right out of the bottle. Aromas of black pepper spice, violets, smoked meats, cherries, and raspberries led to a concentrated and viscous palate. With air, the floral component started blowing off with a sweeter/savoury Asian spice, licorice, tobacco and incense mingling with macerated red fruits. This 100% Grenache was impressive in its balance. There was no denying the structure and power this wine exuded but the exuberant acidity and ripe, smooth tannins kept the wine seemingly light on its feet. Tremendous fruit concentration. Much as I am enjoying this wine now, this has the balance and structure to age gracefully. As is the general practice here at Graileys, a special bottle has to be opened to bid Simon adieu on his travels, so a 1994 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red was opened next. Tasting Pahlmeyer alongside the youthful and fruit-filled Rayas emphasized its elegant complexity. Aromas of cassis, blackberry, smoky plums, tobacco, licorice, and a touch of herbal notes emerged from the glass. The palate was full-bodied, silky-textured where more black fruits with tobacco leaf, damp earth and licorice were noticeable. Persistent length on the finish with a touch of espresso beans. This wine is fully mature and should be enjoyed now.