Day Three in Bordeaux

By: AJ McClellan

Another great day planned… Latour, then d’Yquem, followed by Ramond Lafon, and last but not least we finish the day off with Smith Haut Lafite.

 

Stopping into Latour was amazing! The vineyards were beautiful with rolling hills and the chateau was fantastic. Possibly the best part was seeing the Latour tower in the middle of the vineyards… We saw the fermentation tanks and aging room then got the opportunity to taste through a lineup of 2006 Pauillac (their third label), 2005 Les Forts de Latour (Second label), and 2004 Chateau Latour. The wines were great, especially Latour which was soft and elegant for a wine of such youth.  After the tasting we wondered the vineyard for a little while and then headed to our appointment at d’Yquem.

 

Again I am amazed at how close together the vineyards are. Latour, Pichon Lalande, and Pichon Baron are right next to each other with some of the vines actually leapfrogging one another with the only way to tell them apart being the different color roses that are planted at the end of the vines….

We stopped in a small town right outside of Sauternes for a quick lunch then headed to d’Yquem. The region was beautiful and you can tell why d’Yquem makes such great wines, their land is perfectly situated on the hillside so they get the ideal amount of drainage for making fantastic grapes. Again we saw the tanks and aging room and had the opportunity to taste through the 2007 vintage. The wine, while young, was well developed with excellent balance. It always amazes me how structured and vibrant d’Yquem is regardless of age… After we finished tasting we went across the road to visit Raymond Lafon.

 

At Raymond Lafon we were greeted by the owner and winemaker, Jean-Pierre, whose father retired as winemaker of d’Yquem and move across the road to begin making wine under his own label. The estate was very interesting; Jean-Pierre was warm and inviting, showing us the vineyard and the garden. With a beautiful peacock strutting around the back yard and a garden of everything from roses to palm trees it was quite a site to see. Raymond Lafon is one of the smallest chateaus in the area, producing only 40,000 bottles a year. We tasted the 2005 vintage and it was singing, succulent honeysuckles with ripe apricots and a dollop of honey.

We finished the day over at Smith Haut Lafite. This was one of  the most impressive wineries we had seen thus far. You could tell, almost like Silver oak or Darioush, that the winery was geared towards tourism. High tech sorting and fermentation tanks with beautiful statues in the fields. We tasted the Blanc and Rouge and both were drinking great, although the Blanc was slightly more approachable in its youth. It was at this point in time that we realized that the ride back to Bordeaux would be thirsty work and decided to purchase an Imperial of 1986 Smith Haut Lafite for the drive home.

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Day Two: St Emilion

By AJ McClellan

Our second day in Bordeaux started with a great breakfast in the hotel followed by a quick lesson in the basics of Bordeaux wine regions and how to taste wine. One fact that I learned was the difference between the first nose and the second nose. The first nose is taken before the wine is swirled; this allows you to detect flaws more easily as you will detect the wood and spice of the wine on the first nose while the second nose, after you swirl the wine, will bring out the fruit. With our newfound knowledge of how to taste wines we proceeded to blind taste through several for practice. The first was a 2008 Chateau Montdoyen Divine Misericorde Bordeaux Blanc, a very crisp white with almost 20% Semilion giving it a light waxy feel in the mouth with the Sauvignon Blanc bringing out big grapefruit and lemon zest. Next on the lineup was 2008 Chateau Mons Delaunay a fun little bottle of village wine that was very pleasant but not overly complex. Our third bottle was one of my favorites the 2006 Goulee, which is a second label of Cos d’Estournel. Soft and supple with great black and red fruits and a classic Bordeaux Terrior, not one for aging more than 15 years but a great bottle to sip on while you are waiting for others to evolve. The last wine of our blind tasting was the 2001 Chateau Cadet Piola, another easy drinking Bordeaux with the Cabernet Franc showing great chocolate and coffee notes.

After our wine class we headed over to Giron’dines for lunch. We started our meal with foie gras served cold with apricot preserves, paired with a 2008 Chateau de Crabitan from the Sainte Croix du Mont. The wine was full of huge citrus notes and a subtle touch of honey. The sweet notes of the wine and the great acidity complimented the foie gras perfectly. Next was a roast duck served with a drizzle of aged balsamic and vegetable medley. The duck was served with a duo of St Emilions. First, a 2001 In Rose Cotes Roi with big chocolate and tobacco notes followed by spice box. Second was the 2001 Roc de Joanin, which was slightly softer and more round in style with plush fruit and a savory churned earth finish.

With full bellies we took a stroll across St Emilion to Chateau Canon, stopping in at the vineyards of Ausone and several other great vineyards. One thing that was amazing to me was how close all of the vineyards were to each other – literally across the street or only separated by a fence. Once we got to Canon we were ready to try some wine! The Chateau was absolutely beautiful with a grand tasting room and beautiful vineyards. After seeing the fermentation tanks and the barrel aging room we got an extra little treat when our guide took us more than 10 meters underground to show us the old mining caves under the vineyards. We finished with a tasting of the 2006 Chateau Canon in a beautiful courtyard overlooking the vineyards.

After Canon Ivan hooked us up with his friend Nickolas and we went to Pavie Macquin to taste through the 2010 barrel samples of Chateau Puygueraud, George, La Prade, Berliquet, Larcis  Ducasse, Beausejour, and Pavie Macquin. The barrel samples were all powerful and inky in the glass, showing huge red and black fruits with giant oak spice and massive teeth-staining tannins.

After our vineyard adventures it was time to stop in at a local cafe in St Emilion to grab a bite to eat for dinner. Simon and Dave ordered the Andouiellette Sausage and when it came out it we immediately knew something was wrong. When Dave cut into his sausage what looked like cadavers intestines spilled out releasing the smell of death and decay. Unfortunately Simon was not paying quite as much attention to what he was doing and managed to take a bite of the sausage before realizing that it was rancid; the look on his face was classic. We fled the diner in St Emilion and retreated to the safety of the hotel dinner room.

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The First Day In Bordeaux

By: AJ McClellan

A great first day in Bordeaux! An easy 8 hr flight across the pond to Amsterdam then a simple hop over to Bordeaux and we are here.

Our first night we got acclimated by stopping in at a few local pubs to test the neighborhood beer (it’s ok, we will get to the wine soon enough…) Unfortunately Dave’s bags did not make the journey, and while they are having a great time in Seattle, they were not doing Dave much good over there… so while we were out we grabbed a few garments… After a few more pubs it was back to the Hotel Grand Barrail to get ready for dinner tonight.

For dinner we went to the four and a half star Hotel de Plaisance. Dinner was fantastic! We started with a bottle of Chateau de Chantegrive, a Blanc from Bordeaux. Light and easy drinking with a great acidity and fantastic minerality, pineapple with pear cider. For an appetizer we had the Duck foie gras pan sautéed with small ravioli of seasonal  mushrooms, truffle juice and veal emulsion served with  a wine pairing of Chateau Grande Clotie, another Bordeaux Blanc that was fatter with more apple notes. While the Bordeaux was great, Dave and I conspired to get a glass of Sauternes out for the table (as no proper foie gras should be served without a Sauternes complement). A perfect pairing! The sweet wine and creamy rich food was amazing.

For the main course we had Princely Lamb with Semoline, aromatic vegetables, crispy fajitas (made from couscous – very interesting). With this dish we had Chateau de Pressar St Emilion Rouge.  A very nice bottle of wine, great fruit structure with classic Bordeaux earth and a touch of spice.

Dessert was of two parts with a jivara/passion fruit mousse served with mango emulation and cacao sorbet and a strawberry gariguette served with almond shavings. The dessert was brilliant, served with the Domaine Taile aux Loups, a semi sweet Chenin Blanc. The pairing was perfect.

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Nickel & Nickel

By: AJ McClellan

A wonderful tasting of the current release of four of Nickel & Nickel’s 14 single vineyard estates complemented by the Medina Chardonnay, Enroute Pinot Noir, and of course the famed Dolce. Nickel & Nickel have a great history in the Napa Valley, not to mention one of the coolest labels, and their 2007 vintage is one of the best I have had from this remarkable producer.

2009 Medina Vineyard Chardonnay – I great chardonnay with a nose of green apple, apricot, and peaches. The palate was round and rich with a dollop of butter surrounded by ripe fruit and a srisp minerality.

2009 Russian River Enroute Pinot Noir – A very impressive Pinot Noir. I have been a fan of this wine from its first vintage in 2007. The nose is full of ripe fruits with notes of blackberry and raspberry there is also a pleasant floral note on the back end of the wine. The palate is well balanced with great structure and a long finish.

2007 Tench Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – At first the Tench was a little shut down and not giving much up, but after an hour in the glass if opened to show dark blue and black fruits and a woody finish.

2007 Branding Iron Cabernet Sauvignon – This was the fruitiest of the four single vineyard cabs we tried. Big cherry, raspberry, plum, and boysenberry on the palate with soft tannins and medium body.

2007 Sullenger Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This was my personal favorite of the foursome. Showing Staall the great fruit of the Branding Iron and the ridged structure of the State Ranch. Black cherries, blueberries, leather, and some smoke on the nose. The palate was powerful with a smooth finish. I think this wine will age very well and in 5 years it will be stunning.

2007 State Lane Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon – This was the biggest of the four wines with huge black fruits and massive tannins.

2006 Far Niente Dolce – A great desert wine, honey and apricot with excellent balance between sugar and acidity.

After the tasting the members pulled out a few treats for the table to enjoy.

2006 Bodega Chacra Cincuenta Y Cinco – From the owner of Sassicaia this Argentinean Pinot Noir tastes like a Grand Cru Gevrey. Soft blue and red fruits with a excellent palate of earth and minerality. In ten years this wine will compete with some of the best Burgundians for a third of the  price.

2000 Insignia – A great bottle of Insignia, I was impressed with how well this wine has aged. Black fruits with great spice notes and subtle vanilla and cinnamon on the finish.

2008 Corra – Another great Cali Cab. Black Currants, blackberries, black cherries, black liquorish, tobacco, black earth with great huge fruit. The palate is seductive with soft velvety tannins and delicious dark chocolate great vanilla and clove, and allspice. Brilliant long finish of soft fruits and cooking spices.

1988 Pape Clement – This Bordeaux was drinking like a champ. Big coco powder on the nose with star anise, clove, dry foliage, and amazing ripe dark fruits. The palate was creamy and rich with blackberries, plum pie, red roses, and liquorish. The wine has an excellent balance with a long finish of chocolate butter.

1988 Remoissenet Clos Vougeot GC Magnum – The nose was wonderful pure Burgundy. Big earth with subtle spice and dry red fruits. The palate was plush and smooth showing forest floor and crushed fruits. Wonderful wine.

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By: AJ McClellan

We had a few good members around the table yesterday, each with a great bottle of wine in hand. I was very impressed with the Dominus, while it needed some more time in the bottle, I thought it was drinking very well on the night.

 

1997 Dominus – This bottle was drinking great! It would be fun to put this up against the 94 Insignia that we had the night before…. Both were great examples of killer Cali Cabs. The 97 was a little stiffer and not quite ready to drink, I would give it 3-5 more years in the bottle for optimum drinking age. You can tell that all the components are there for a great bottle of wine; it’s just that a little more time is required to coax them out…

1987 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin 1er – I rather enjoyed this bottle, although Simon slighted it calling it thin and lacking of a mid palate. While I can agree with Simon’s assessment I thought the wine was quite pleasant and an easy drinking….

1978 Marques de Murrieta Gran Reserva – This was my first experience with this wine. I am told that the last time this bottle was opened (last week) it was drinking very well with plenty of life. However, I felt that this particular bottle was at the end of its life showing dry scraps of fruit and flimsy tannins that were struggling to hold the wine together.

2007 Altivo Secret Malbec – A nice little Malbec. Big ripe fruit with weighty tannins and a moderately complex palate. The wine punched far above its price point and showed a surprising balance.

1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Les Combettes – This wine was stunning, as Leflaive usually is. Big pineapple with toasted buttered popcorn and a crisp minerality on the nose. The palate was crisp and clean with a long finish and subtle complexities.

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Just another Tuesday in Graileys

By: AJ McClellan

We had a great night last night. A few members dropped in and we opened a few stunning wines around the table. After regaling us with stories from his recent trip one member put the 94 Insignia on the table and it was all downhill from there…

1994 Insignia – I was very impressed with this wine. The Insignia showed bright red and black fruits with a stunning backgroud of old spice, cinnamon, and cloves. The palate was very complex with a strong middle palate and wonderful finish.

1995 Chateau La Nerthe CDP Cuvee des Cadettes – I think this is a great CDP. It is soft and silky, a little lighter than you might expect but I think it adds to the charm of the bottle. Not overly complex but with great fruit notes and loads of earth that make this a fun bottle to drink.

2007 DeForville Barbaresco – Another fun bottle although this wine seems to fade the longer it is open. When first opened it shows a crisp red fruits with a classic Barbaresco tannin structure. Not overly complex but very tasty grape juice. After an hour in the glass the fruit fades and all you are left with is astringent tannins.

1999 Chateau Monbousquet – Classic Bordeaux. Graphite, forest floor, dusty cherry, dark raspberries, turned earth, and cooking spice.

1998 Mommessin Clos de Tart GC – This bottle was spectacular! Stunning black cherries with wild mushrooms and moist forest floor. The glass could not contain the earth of the wine and it floated out to tantalize my nose after I set the bottle down. Very complex with a wonderful finish.

1997 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier Montrachet – This bottle was slightly oxidized with honey and nut notes followed by hay, pears, and yellow apples.

 

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Egelhoff Tasting

By: AJ McClellan

We had Bob Egelhoff in Thursday night for a small drop-in tasting that went really well. Bob is in town for the Cotes du Coeur Charity event this weekend and has made the events Tete du Cuvee honoree this year. Because of this Bob was in high demand while in town this week and we were privileged to have him drop in for a tasting. Bob is not only a great wine maker but a great guy, he has endless stories and a fun personality that makes all the tasting we do with him a good time for everyone involved.  Not only did we get the opportunity to taste with a great winemaker but he was nice enough to bring in a small vertical of his past 3 vintages of Egelhoff Cabernet…

2009 Egelhoff Riesling – Bobs Rieslings are always predictably fantastic. He does not make his wine cloyingly sweet as many other new world Riesling producers have a tendency for. Instead he harnesses the beautiful natural fruit of the grape and the fantastic minerality that goes with it.

2005 Egelhoff Cabernet Sauvignon – The 05 Blue label cab was drinking very well and is just hitting its window of drinkability. I think the wine will continue to improve for another 2-3 years becoming softer and more integrated in style.

2006 Egelhoff Cabernet Sauvignon – This is Bobs favorite drinking wine right now, the wine was soft and fruity with a strong tannin structure and a mellow finish. I don’t know if this wine has the stuffing’s to age for as long as the 05 or 07 but it is a great bottle to pop and pour at your leisure.

2007 Egelhoff Cabernet Sauvignon – I was very impressed with this wine and while it is still wound a little tight in the glass I think that, in time, it will out produce the 05 with its longevity and complexity.

2007 Walton Cabernet Sauvignon – This is just a fun bottle to drink. Not overmuch to think about just a great wine to open up while you are cooking on the grill or when you need a bottle to take out for a picnic.

 

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Hill Family Tasting

By: AJ McClellan

Ryan came in we were all very impressed with the great quality of his wines in a fantastic price range. This year was no disappointment as the current releases held their own with superb quality and one of the best values in their price range.

2009 Hill Family Saucignon Blanc – Very light on its feet with crisp tropical fruits and a slight roundness added  by  5% Semillon.

2008 Hill Family Carlys Cuvee Chardonnay – This wine always impresses and is a great bang for the buck Chard. Light and crisp with its no malolactic style it shows peaches, lemon, and key lime pie.

2007 Hill Family Stewart Ranch Pinot Noir – Another of my favorites, dark cherries and fresh plums with a deep floral note and a pleasant cooking spice.

2007 Hill Family Beau Terre Merlot – A true Merlot with jammy blueberries, fresh boysenberries, and streaks of pine and cedar through the well balanced heavy set wine.

2007 Hill Family Cabernet Sauvignon – I have been enamored with 2007 Napa cabs for the better part of a year now but this Hill Family Cab still surprised me with its elegant ripe fruit and full bodied palate ending in a perfect balance. The feather in this wines cap is the price, for only $59.99 this wine is one of the best values on the market.

1997 Domaine Jean Grivot Echezeaux – This was a wonderful Burgundy with outstanding fruit and elegant earth notes that played in perfect harmony with the stunning floral notes and bold minerality.

1998 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne Montrachet 1er Les Vergers – I was very impressed with this bottle of wine.  Light notes of honey covered straw and slightly burnt caramel with pleasantly ripe peaches and red pears.

1997 Faiveley Echezeaux – This wine took a while to open up but once it did it rivaled the Grivot with great acidity and soft tannins that were silky in the mouth.

1996 Torre Oria – A great bottle of wine that is in its perfect drinking window right now. Soft black currants and cherries with a wet soil component.

1969 Remoissenet Nuits Saint Georges 1er Les Cailles – This was one of the better 69 Burgs I have had. As a youngster I am sure this wine was tight and difficult to drink but 40 years later it is soft as cashmere with a kaleidoscope of fruit, earth, spice, and dry flowers. Amazing bottle of wine…

1995 Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes – A great bottle to end the night on. The La Nerthe was drinking like a champ with well integrated tannins and a plethora of dried blue and black fruits. The finish showed a light dusting of pepper with crushed cloves and a dash of tar and leather.

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2009 Louis Latour Tasting

By: AJ McClellan

Last night we have the privilege to taste through the 2009 lineup of Louis Latour Burgundies. The more I taste the 09’s the more impressed I am by their quality and consistency. I find that they each show a similar fruit forward nature with a great acidic structure and wonderful density. I for one think the 2009 vintage will show itself to be one of the best in the years to come, if you can keep your hands off the wines until then that is…

We tasted over 20 wines in the lineup yesterday but the highlights of the night were the 2009 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne with a fantastic toast and lively minerality and the 2009 Louis Latour Corton Grancey which showed light red cherries with an impressive earth note and excellent balance. I also got to taste some back vintage wines of both of the above labels and when compared to the 2005 vintage the 2009 has its work cut out for it…

 

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The Ghost Horse

By: AJ McClellan

We had Todd “The Todd” Anderson in for a tasting of his famed Ghost Horse wines. With Todd’s Ghost Horse Spectre going for almost twice as much as Screaming Eagle and the fact that they are virtually impossible to buy there is a lot of hype around these bottles, and for good reason.

When Todd brushed in through the door he was larger than life, from his custom made cowboy boots to his leather duster embroidered with a rearing horse, this guy cut quite the figure every bit as big as his wines. Todd greeted me with a firm handshake and a friendly smile that immediately washed away any trepidation that I may have had regarding this famed winemaker. The tasting went great. Todd told us all about his wines, sparing no secrets and answering every question we could throw at him honestly and earnestly. Todd also told us about his personal journey, how he came to make wines, and the events that lead up to the creation of Ghost Horse.

The wines were great, all four labels coming from a small single vineyard in the south end of Napa Valley. Each label has its own small plot within the single vineyard and while they are a stone’s throw away from each other they are remarkably unique and extremely distinguishable. What struck me was the remarkable gymnast like balance that each wine exhibited, even with the 200% new oak treatment that Todd put his Apparition and Spectre through they have a stunning balance that boggles my mind….

2006 Ghost Horse Cabernet – The nose was fragrant with notes of smoke, beef jerky, sweet currants, and subtle earth notes of foliage and underbrush. The palate was huge and exploded with roasted blueberries and cherry cobbler. The wine had a very pleasing overall balance and a finish of game and boysenberries.

2006 Ghost Horse Phantom – A very interesting nose of barley and mint followed by milk chocolate reminding me of Thin Mint Girl Scout cookies. There was also a deeper, richer nose of freshly baked brownies topped with fresh blackberries and ripe red cherries. The palate was full of black and red fruits with a dark earth note of tilled earth and a finish of subtle cooking spice, chocolate, and chewy black fruits.

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2006 Ghost Horse Apparition – Dark in the glass with a nose of black cherries, plum, dark fudge, and hookah tobacco. The palate was full and weighty with juicy black fruits and pleasant notes of nutmeg and cloves. Excellent balance with soft velvety tannins and a finish of tobacco and coconut.

2006 Ghost Horse Spectre – First thing I noticed was the color of the wine, ink black and impenetrable by light. The nose showed coco bean, juicy black fruits, hot fudge, cooking spices, wet tobacco, vanilla bean, vanilla extract, clove, crushed plums, dark chocolate, over ripe blueberries, tar, and smoke. The wine was like blackberry jam on my palate, thick and heavy with fat shavings and huge tobacco finishing with brown sugar and mocha.

 

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