by | January 18, 2013

Road Trip

By Simon Roberts

We headed out to Vaquero Country Club last night to do a private tasting with some members who reside at this is beautiful country club in Westlake, Texas. The cozy club house was the perfect setting for such an intimate tasting. The fire was roaring away in the background as our guests arrived. We chatted away while sipping Krug Grand Cuvee. This crisp, light and very refreshing Champagne was the perfect aperitif to start the evening off. For me, Krug has to be the best Champagne house; a quick back and forth verbal tussle ensued as A.J. proclaimed Dom Perignon to be his favorite. To each his own, I suppose… but it’s Krug every time for me.

Our guests were already seated when we poured our first wine, a lovely glass of 1996 Remoissenet Montrachet which showed a bright, vibrant acidity and a touch of honey on the nose. As this sat in the glass, the wine’s bouquet became more pronounced and intense offering spring flowers and white peach on the palate along with a hint of butterscotch. One of the guests commented they had never had a chardonnay that tasted like this. It was her first time tasting an aged white Burgundy and she was loving every sip of it… not a bad starting point!

Our next wine was a 1997 William Selyem Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir that was rocking — earthy mushroom with bing cherry nuances and a wonderful texture and finish. If I tasted this wine blind, there is no way I would have pegged this for domestic Pinot. These William Selyem Pinot Noirs really do hold up, especially from this vineyard.

We headed to Bordeaux for our next glass with a killer bottle of Pomerol. The 2000 Chateau La Conseillante was seductive, soft and supple straight from the bottle. The tannins have melted away, showcasing nothing but harmonious and balanced structure and sheer elegance in the glass. Everybody wanted more. This was the WOTN for me and after comparing notes that was the general consensus around the table.

We finished the evening with a big, robust and bloody lovely 2009 Favia Cerro Sur. Annie and Andy Erickson have nailed this wine. Gobs of sweet black currant fruit coat the palate along with a vanillin edge that is in no way overbearing… just the right amount to give this wine a velvety rich texture in the mouth. This is such a well-made and perfectly balanced Cabernet Franc-Cabernet Sauvignon blend that is a pleasure to drink now but clearly has potential for longevity. At the end of the night, the WOTN decision was a close call, but as always pure Graileys-style fun.

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by | January 16, 2013

Unexpected Turn of Events…

By: AJ McClellan

Last night was an interesting one at Graileys. We had a fun New World vs Old World wine tasting in which several members pulled out some great wines from France to match up against some wines from California. All in all I was very unimpressed by the Frenchies and the Cali wines were showing very well. It was a fun day with some very nice wines.

1994 Leroy Nuits st Georges Les Boudots – This wine opened with a pleasant note on the nose but with a slightly metallic nuance on the palate. After some time in the glass the wine opened up some but never really blew up. Red cherries with subtle floral notes accompany flat acidity and sour earth notes on this less than impressive wine.

2010 Kosta Browne Sonoma Pinot Noir – Interestingly this wine was the exact opposite of the Leroy. Huge fruit notes of Bing Cherry and red currants mixed with big sandalwood on the nose. The palate was full an rich with loud fruit and big woodspice.

1998 Guado al Tasso – I was really excited for this wine, but unfortunately it was corked…

2005 Chateau Montrose – This 95 point wine was a tannic monster. This wine was obviously far too young to drink. After two hours in a decanter the wine was still tight with a closed down nose and a palate that would suck your face dry. I look forward to trying this wine again in another 10-15 years.

2008 Foley Claret – Another great example of a young California wine blowing its European counterpart out of the water. This wine was stunning. The nose was full of deep black fruit mixed with dark coco and baking spice. This is a seamless wine with excellent tannic structure and a lovely finish.

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by | January 14, 2013

Finish like Tyson

By Simon Roberts

The decadent wine indulgence continued on Thursday evening with Dave and his mate Mark Schwartz in town. Mark flew in from San Francisco after meeting Dave and member Brandon at a recent Golf Tourney at Spanish Bay. After hearing about the Graileys weekly shenanigans and daily wine tastings, Mark took it upon himself to check it out in person; a good move on his part. So last week was full-on, to say the least.

This little soiree started with a wonderful 1996 Hubert Lamy St Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers de dents de chien that was drinking extremely well. Great Chardonnay like this is a pleasure to drink and cannot be missed. With pre-mox issues prevalent lately, I am happy to report this wine was showing none of it. This was a breath of fresh air and a lovely little pull from the cellar. As the night gained momentum so did the wines such that an impromptu Graileys- style dinner erupted. We initially planned on heading out to dinner but got too comfortable sitting around with a line-up of beautiful wines in front of us that we ended up ordering in. Hunan Express was the food pairing of choice… go figure. Certainly, we loaded up on it; we had enough to feed a village.

The wines for dinner included a knockout 1997 Jadot Criots-Batard-Montrachet pulled by Brandon. This screamed crème brulee with purity, balance and stunning fruit. When these white burgs are on there is nothing like them. The caveat is, you keep chasing that high. Next up was the 1998 Penfolds Grange pulled by Bill. This was a monster wine, firmly structured and brooding in the glass. This continued to evolve and for the next two hours, this blockbuster just kept getting better. This 98 Grange is definitely all it is cracked up to be; a near perfect Shiraz with undeniable aging potential.

With the pressure now fully on, Mark and I wandered in the back to fish one out that can compete with the table. I thought something a little different would do the trick; sitting on the racks, staring at me was an unassuming bottle of 1990 Burgaud Cote Rotie. A client recently bought this wine and had called back soon after for more. He went on and on about how this was drinking extremely well so I kept a couple of bottles for my personal stash and boy did he get it right. The initial nose was pure Cote Rotie with burnt tar and spice. For those few around the table who are not used to older Cote Roties, this was a little too funky for them, but this was right up my street. After half an hour, the smell of flowers started emanating from the glass replacing the initial funk… this was a seriously lovely bottle of Syrah that slowly blossomed over the course of the evening. Wine is always intriguing and this bottle of Cote Rotie is no different. How can a wine that smelled so funky evolve into this gorgeous, elegant wine? This wine just kept growing on me; there is no beating a wine that makes your pulse race, one that makes you ask questions… this is what wine is all about, right?  Refusing to be outdone by the French, Joe, who had a serious baptism by fire tasting some of the world’s greatest wines on his first two visits here, opened a stunner, a 1994 Phelps Insignia. This is a great wine and I mean go-for-the-Hail-Mary-great! This vintage of Insignia is at the peak of its drinking window right now. As a matter of fact, the 94 Cabs I have tasted recently are nothing short of perfection and Phelps absolutely nailed it with the 1994 Insignia. The sweet fruit and perfect balance of this wine was beyond compare; a velvet hammer that had a finish like Tyson. This was definitely a knockout night by any measure.

 

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by | January 14, 2013

BOB FOLEY ROCKS

 

 

This much was clearly evident when he stopped by for an action-packed wine dinner with our members last Friday. The evening’s line-up of recent releases of one white and five reds showed Bob’s special touch; he has essentially figured out how to make wines that are exciting in their youth with vibrant fruit and supple tannins yet judging from a series of mid-90s Pride Cabernet Sauvignon we’ve tasted at Graileys, they mature gracefully developing more flavor complexity as the tannins break down. The 2009 Pinot Blanc’s fresh stone fruits, white peach and apricot were exactly what everyone needed to whet their palates for the reds we had waiting to be tasted. We sat down and got started with 2009 Charbono sourced from the Heitz family in Calistoga. Bob can be credited for saving a few acres of Charbono vines that the Heitz family was planning on uprooting to be replaced with the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon vines. As luck would have it, Bob has previously tasted a vintage Inglenook Winery Charbono, sourced from the same Heitz plantings, that rocked his world. So he committed to to buying the fruit from Gary Heitz thus, the history of Charbono from this acclaimed vineyard continues. Meaty and smoky with gobs of blackberry jam, black raspberries, vanilla and toast. Full-bodied and structured; this wine sticks to your palate with ripe black/blue fruits and toasty vanilla and a dense, rich texture with rounded and velvety tannins. This could easily last a couple of decades in the cellar. Bob’s interesting concoction, 2010 The Griffin, was tasted next. This red is a blend of the barrels that don’t make it to the other cuvees he produces; the blend changes every year as his only goal is to make the best finished product he can from the raw ingredients he has in the kitchen. The 2010 is about 52% Merlot and I just love the bold aromatics on this particularly wine with lots of red fruits on the front along with vanilla, sweet spice, raspberry liqueur and mocha. Fleshy and dense on the palate with a great thread of acidity and a touch of grippy tannins keep the ripeness in check. The 2010 Merlot was tasted next which impressed with its flamboyant nose of blackcurrant, cassis, black raspberries and nuanced oak undertones.  Well-structured with supple tannins. This isn’t your thin, monolithic Merlot, but rather a serious one that actually has the stuffing and balance to develop with 5-10 years of cellar age. Year in and year out, this is Graileys top-seller red. It consistently hits that good balance between quality and value. The 2009 Claret, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, was next in the line-up. We decanted it an hour prior to the event and this really blossomed with aeration, smoothing out the rougher edges and allowing the black fruits to push through the firmer tannins. I would love to revisit this wine with an additional five years of bottle age; when the tannins break down with maturity watch out for a more luscious mouthfeel and layered fruit/oak/ flavors. The 2008 Petite Sirah was tasted next. This showcases the deft hand that Bob has in pulling the nuances of valley floor and mountain fruit sources and creating a product that is greater than the sum of its parts. On the nose, blueberry jam, chocolate shavings, mocha, peppery spice are pronounced. This was backed by a massive palate with rich tannins and a lingering finish marked by licorice and blackberries. And just to give this night extra flavor, Simon also served his famous herb-crusted lamb chops while member Dave M’s 2013 scalloped potatoes and wasabi Ceasar salad likewise graced the event. As this is Graileys, the segue into the after-party was effortless… and this being Graileys, what happens in Graileys, stays in Graileys….

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by | January 10, 2013

Thunderball

By: AJ McClellan

Last night was a true Graileys experience. Dave was in town and in typical fashion a slew of great wines were opened and drunk around the table while listening to some great tunes. We tasted 1991 Ridge Montebello, 1996 Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, 1997 Jadot Criots batard Montrachet, and 2000 Jadot Clos du Beze. Above and beyond all of the wines the 1998 Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, right when we poured the wine Thunderball by Tom Jones came on and the music fit perfectly with the bottle. It was a great night and the 98 Leroy is one I will have on my mind for a good long while….

1998 Leroy Pommard 1er Les Vignots – This is one of the best bottles of wine I have had in Graileys in a while. Immediately upon popping the cork you could get subtle notes of ripe red cherry with burnt tire and cinnamon. After an hour in the decanter the wine exploded with rich cherry notes followed by blooming flowers and red hots. I was very impressed with the concentration of the wine and how plush it was on the palate. After diving into the glass even further you discover fresh mushrooms and clean forest floor. All in all a great bottle that is incredibly complex with a very lengthy finish.

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by | January 9, 2013

Traffic Jam

We’ve all been there… we just need an irrefutable excuse to do our thing and traffic is the most common one and with the wet, rainy day that beset Dallas yesterday, the stage was set. First in was Bill S who walked into our owner Dave S hitting some imaginary golf balls. Bill did an impromptu tutorial, going back and forth perfecting that swing and somehow in the middle of it he managed to fish a 1978 Remoissenet Chambertin-Clos de Beze from his cage. Right out of the bottle, the wine displayed unbelievable freshness with aromas reminiscent of wild berries, dusty cherries, undergrowth, spice coming back with a twist of red currant and iron note on the finish. On the palate, it was opulent and full with tremendous length on the finish. This was followed by the mature, smoky and scorched earth inflected 1983 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle. With time, additional notes of dried tobacco, tar, and olive notes started coming through. From the intense nose to the elegant palate, this was in a great drinking spot, begging to be drank now. Doc Scott was conveniently caught in an hour-long jam at Graileys, enough time for him to open the show-stopping NV Jacques Selosse Substance which displayed an alluring bouquet of almond paste, brioche, yeast, orchard fruits, and a beguiling seaweed-like minerality. Or as Dave called it, “like a salty mist coming off the ocean.” The palate was powerful and opulent yet elegant with creamy almond brioche, marzipan, floral, touch of earth and honey. This continued its evolution in the glass gaining in mouthfeel and becoming more sumptuous and richer. My WOTN. Matt J walked in next and was handed a glass of the Substance. He was swirling and seemingly inspired when he popped the cork on a 1990 Les Forts de Latour. And boy, this jumped into a running start right out of the bottle… gobs of cassis, blackberries, blackcurrants, sweet spice, roasted espresso and graphite. This just seemed more evolved on the palate than it was on the nose. The tannins are resolved giving a round, supple texture on the palate. Fantastic bottle! I would be interested to see this bottle again in a decade and see where the nose and the palate will meet. Mary F walked in to pick up a couple of bottles but was talked into staying for a few minutes by a taste of the 1990 Les Forts. She shared a bottle of 2000 Jadot Chambertin Clos de Beze around the table. Initially, the wine showed high-toned aromatics with red fruits reminiscent of cherries and strawberries along with some floral, earth and savory, dried herbs. There was great freshness on the palate with a zippy acidity and bright red fruits suggesting there is long life ahead of this baby. As it sat in the glass, it started opening up becoming more earthy showing mushrooms, minerality, spice, plums and blackcurrants. Amazingly elegant yet powerful at the same time. This is why I’m such a huge fan of Clos de Beze; it’s a skill to marry that opulence with elegance. As we were revisiting this line-up of wines in front of us, Bill S was back from fetching a pheasant truffled risotto he made at his house. As if anybody needed anymore organoleptic inspiration. Then again, this is Graileys… so, as the risotto warmed up on the stove top, Bill S whipped up some crazy-good spicy Buffalo quail legs. We all dug in as Simon poured around a NV Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvee. The soft, honeyed, pear and Golden delicious apple-flavored Champagne was just the perfect foil to the rich, full-flavored quail legs.

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by | January 7, 2013

Bordeaux Holds Court

Last Friday signaled that we are officially back after about a couple of weeks of quieter nights as most of our members spent quality time with families over the holidays. And our members who walked in last did not hold back popping corks on some cracking wines. The Bordeaux selection commanded the night with excellent showing throughout. Louis R shared his powerful 1990 Pichon Baron which delivered intense bouquet of blackcurrant, roasted espresso, graphite, and toasty vanilla. The palate was chewy and dense with high levels of ripe and supple tannins. This wine continued to evolve in glass gaining more notes of tobacco, dried herbs, incense and smoky graphite and becoming richer and smoother in mouthfeel. Tremendous length. Next up was a 2000 Chateau Monbousquet opened by our newest member Mike F. I decanted the wine about an hour before he and his wife showed up and the wine was paying back with a harmonious and mellow palate displaying notes of rich cassis, blackberries, spice and plums. Touch of earth and mocha. Vibrant and fleshy. Tasted next to the 90 PB, this seemed more elegant in stature with silkier tannins and great harmony. This is in a great place right now. Cynthia C walked in next and asked what she wanted to drink… “Just surprise me”, she quipped. And Simon dutifully fished a 1990 Angelus from the cellar. Right out of the bottle, there was an explosion of ripe plums, black raspberries, black cherries, licorice, currants, vanilla, dark chocolate and toasted mocha undertones. Opulent and densely structured with super fine tannins and exquisite texture. This continued evolving as it sat in the glass gaining richness and viscosity. Extremely long finish with complex oak nuances – licorice, coffee and mocha. This was my WOTN. My man Mike M generously handed me a glass of something red. I nosed it and the wine’s intense smoky cassis, sweet blackberries and cedar notes took me to Chateau Pavie initially. I tasted it and there was a subtle but distinct pencil shavings/graphite along with the dark berries and oaky undertones. The bold, rich and concentrated palate took me to 2000 Leoville-Poyferre. Time for reveal:  a 2000 Pichon Baron. Thanks, Mike!

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by | January 5, 2013

First Friday of the New Year

Last night was a great Graileys Night. The first Friday of the new year and we had a wonderful group in to bring in the special occasion….

1999 Joseph Drouhin Batard Montrachet – This bottle was drinking great. Some slight signs of oxidization adding a honeyed note and lovely peach and floral characteristics.

2000 Pichon Baron – With an hour of decanting this bottle was drinking great. Big black fruits with leather and tobacco.

1990 Angelus – The wine of the night! The nose showed leather, currant, graphite, forest floor, tilled earth, and dark fruit. The palate was classic Bordeaux with soft tannins and great earth notes followed by a long finish.

2003 Penfolds Grange – Big baked cherries on the nose with eucalyptus, mint, wet tar, and overripe juicy plums, blackberries, boysenberries, and black mulberry. This wine was like drinking Jam with its think concentrated tannins and juicy fruit. There was however a layer of cooking spice thrown in adding some spice to the wine.

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by | January 4, 2013

Musigny Potion

I was momentarily distracted from pondering my 2013 New Year’s resolutions by a glass of 1987 Joseph Drouhin Musigny. I sniff, swirl and sniff again. Red fruits, touch of hibiscus and a whiff of mushrooms. With air, the bouquet also showed some dried herbs and red currant. The palate was just as impressive with its freshness, silky tannins and succulent mouthfeel. The wine had such fluid texture that it glided effortlessly from the front to the back. It has been awhile since I’ve had a wine this fabulous that I was doing a happy dance… on the inside. It is wines like these that make oenophiles go crazy for Burgundy. Yes, there’s a lot of nervous anticipation just before you pop the cork and pour the wine because you just don’t know especially with older bottles but when the stars align, magic happens. So, who cares about New Year’s resolutions, I am staring at an empty glass with a big smile on my face still enjoying that spiced red currant finish.

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by | January 3, 2013

A New Year at Graileys

By: AJ McClellan

Welcome to the New Year! We had a great night at Graileys with more bottles being opened than I could recap below. I have noted a few of my favorites of the evening though it was hard to just pick a few…

2008 Domaine du Comte Liger Belair – An absolutely amazing wine, this bottle was my wine of the night… The nose was astonishing and if I would have not seen the color of the juice in my glass I may have been fooled into thinking it was a white wine. There was a noticeable note of banana laffy taffy backed by huge floral notes and beautiful minerality.

2003 Sine Qua Non Papa – This was my second time to taste this bottle and it was even better than I remember. The nose was huge and full of black fruits, leather, and tobacco. The palate on this bottle is what really was impressive though. Soft as silk with velvety tannins and great weight

2001 Abreu Madrona Ranch – This wine was drinking great. The nose showed black fruit with slight notes of leather and anise. After some time in the glass this wine blew up with great fruit notes and lovely cooking spice.

2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia – Insignia is one of the standards of Napa Valley, and this bottle from 2001 was absolutely delicious. Big black fruit with huge tannins and a long spicy finish.

2004 Colgin Cariad – I had high hopes for this bottle and after almost two hours in the glass the wine finally blew up and fulfilled its potential. Red cherry with some earthy notes and big tobacco on the nose. The palate was hard as a nail at first but softened substantially after some time in the glass.

 

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