by | March 19, 2013

St. Patty’s at Graileys

After a short spring break spent in the Big Apple, I was back to work last Friday and looking forward to a Graileys-style St. Patty’s celebration. The day started early with a 1994 Pichon Lalande shared around the table. This was a very elegant Lalande; perfectly enjoyable but somewhat lacking in flavor depth. Mature notes of cigar, smoke, cedar, with a fading plum and blackcurrant fruit. Soft tannins; mellow and smooth-textured with a touch of iron/metallic note on the medium finish.

Next up was a 2002 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets that I decanted for Mary F an hour earlier. High-toned spicy red fruits, smoky, minerals and dried herbs defined the aromas. In the mouth, this was vibrant and focused with vivid acidity. Red currants and cherries on the tangy finish.

David E walked in next with a bottle of 2006 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley which was very primary dominated by darker Pinot fruit profile and toasty oak. Full-bodied, structured and dense on the palate. I thought this was showing a bit of heat on the nose initially which did blow off as the wine blossomed in the glass revealing baking spices, black cherries, raspberries and mocha with oxidation. Very New World PN.

As we allowed the Merry Edwards to sit in the glass, David E decided it was time to fish out a nice red Burgundy from his locker. I opened the 1999 Bitouzet-Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Pitures for him which was singing on the first pour. Intense bouquet of wild mushrooms, earth, meaty wrapped in ripe, sweet red fruits and spice. Well-structured marked by good concentration and opulence in the palate. Pitures is on the southern side of the commune of Volnay, closer to Pommard and I think the wine’s structure reveals that origin.

Simon decided it was time for a palate cleanser so we pulled the cork on a 1990 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot whose pronounced bouquet impressed everyone around the table. Beautiful, complex notes of toasty popcorn, caramel, poached pears, acacia, hazelnuts on the nose and palate. In the mouth this wine displayed tremendous depth and richness. Touch of smoky minerality added more complexity and freshness. Great succulence.  Persistent and complex finish. My WOTN.

Louis R stopped by for a pre-dinner drink and decided to open and share a 2010 Peter Michael Les Pavots. This was definitely a baby but what was impressive about this wine was its very refined, well-integrated tannins. Great balance between fruit richness and oaky elements. Gobs of blackcurrant liqueur, blackberries, toasty oak and vanilla. There is no doubt that this wine has the balance and stuffing to improve with another 20 years of cellar time.

 

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by | March 14, 2013

Bloody lovely!

By: Simon Roberts

This bottle deserves a mention all on its own. The 1990 Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet ‘Les Vergers’ was absolutely lights out when we opened it last night. This is what older Chardonnay should taste like. This bottle had a pure golden hue, sweet baked biscuits and butterscotch and the nose, as soon as I raised this glass I knew we were in for a real treat and the palate did not disappoint; pure unadulterated magic in a glass. Honey, pair, apple with really defined layer after layer of juicy balanced fruit. You never know what you are going to get with old white burgs but this one hit the sweet spot. Bloody lovely!

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by | March 11, 2013

Guigal Tasting

By: AJ McClellan

What a night last Thursday!! We had Patrick Will in who has imported Guigal into Texas for the past ten years. Patrick’s wine knowledge was incredible and he shed some light on the great wines of Guigal that we love so much here.

The lineup was fantastic and inspired several other extraordinary bottles to be opened around the table after the tasting.

2010 Guigal Condrieu – A great Condrieu, like drinking honey and flowers. Very nice acidity and a long finish.

2006 Guigal Ex Voto Blanc – This was one of the most interesting bottles of the tasting. Bright acidity with wonderful fruit and mineral notes. This was a great bottle but I would love to see it in another 10 years! Wow..

2010 Guigal St Joseph Lie Dit Blanc – A balanced bottle of white with the perfect amount of alcohol and a great nectarine note on the nose that I couldn’t get enough of.

2006 Guigal Ex Voto Rouge – I could drink this wine all day! A great bottle with voluptuous tannins and fresh fruit notes. In twenty years this is going to be a jaw dropper!

2007 Guigal Vigne Hospice Rouge – Nice balance with great fruit and a pleasant earthy aroma on the finish.

Vertical of 1996, 2000, and 2004 6 Guigal Chateau D’Ampuis – These were all exceptional bottles and surprisingly very different from each other. the 96 was dirking very well right now with tannins that were beginning to soften and huge leather/tobacco notes. Surprisingly I thought the 00 was actually drinking better than the 96 right now with a softer palate and more expressive nose. The 04 was very good but also very tight. I tasted the 04 on Friday and it was drinking much better after sitting out over night.

1996 and 2000 Guigal La Turque – This was a fun comparison. Unfortunately one of the bottles of 00 was corked so the pours were a little short but it was no great loss as the 96 was clearly far superior to the 00.

 

After the tasting there were a fair amount of wine opened and spread around but there were three bottles that were by far the most fun to drink. We started with a bottle of 1994 Petrus, our members whipped into a frenzy everyone throwing money in to bring this bottle out. Once we got everything settled we popped the wine ad poured it around. The Petrus was drinking well but needed some time in a decanter before it was ready.

After the Petrus we popped a 1983 Palmer which was phenomenal! Classic old Bordeaux with a lovely floral and earthy notes. Last but not least was the 1982 Pichon Lalande which ended up being the wine of the night!  After all the great wines we had such a great time that we retired the bottles to a place of honor so that we can remember how much fun it was.

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by | March 6, 2013

Simply Electrifying!

By: AJ McClellan

Sometimes a bottle comes along that is truly a remarkable wine. I had one such experience Saturday afternoon here at Graileys. We had planned on it being a special night; I had a bottle of 1971 Dom Perignon Oenotheque already chilling down and another bottle of 1996 Dom Perignon Oenotheque in the wings. But nothing could prepare me for the 1955 Leroy Chambertin that ended up getting popped after the bubbles.

 

The wine was absolutely sensational! Starting out with an ever so elegant nose of dried red cherries and crushed currants mixed with a limestone mélange containing vanilla bean and coco. Over a two hour period the wine continually changed giving off subtle mineral, earth, and spice notes giving you a different nose each time you take in the beautiful perfume. I was astonished at how full the fruit notes were, giving a very ripe nose and luscious sweetness on the palate.

Wow, what tannins and mouth feel on this wine! Like drinking fine silk. The wine was light on the palate but the finish refused to leave the senses, leaving behind a rocky minerality and fresh red berry note that combined to electricity the palate. This was simply one of the finest wines I have had and by far the best bottle I have had this year.

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by | March 5, 2013

La Confrerie de la Chaines des Rotisseurs Tasting

By Simon Roberts

Graileys was recently invited to attend a wonderful evening of wine and food in Cozumel, Mexico. One of our members Mauricio Moreno is also a member of the Cozumel chapter of the La Confrerie de la Chaines des Rotisseurs. We gathered in a restaurant called Pancho’s Backyard situated right on Cozumel’s promenade. We were greeted by Pancho himself and Gustavo Ortega, the ex-Mayor of Cozumel. Gustavo has bowed out of politics and stepped right into the wine business without nary missing a beat. His winery, El Cielo, is in the up-and-coming region of Guadalupe Valley. Gustavo is a passionate guy and it shines through in his wines. A crisp Chardonnay named Capriconius was popped open first. This was the perfect aperitif to get the dinner started. The Nebbiolo-Sangiovese blend named Pursues was tasted next. This interesting cuvee was slightly disjointed at first but with air, it opened up to reveal a broader, more complete wine.

When we sat down for dinner, we poured  Gustavo’s 2011 Capricornius, a Cabernet-Merlot blend, followed by his most interesting wine of the night, a Tempranillo-Grenache blend called Orion. Orion’s unique blend worked for my palate and was superbly matched to the perfectly cooked seared duck.  The food pairings that night were hitting all the right notes and were very well received by the group. I was glad to be part of this night of wine, food and new friends.  Glorious, cool breeze was blowing through the patio and I’m in a great mood. I highly recommend Pacho’s Backyard if you’re ever in Cozumel.

In true Graileys fashion, we also brought a few of our own wines to share amongst the esteemed guests. I was sat next to a very interesting couple, Guido and Trina. They are proper oenophiles who know their wines. They were captivating; they regaled us with stories of their serendipitous meeting in London on the tube in the 1950s. Along with Mauricio, another Graileys member who made the trip was Tom Hellman.

As we talked shop, we sipped on 2009  Nicolas Rossignol Pommard Le Fremiers that was drinking like a champ with its bold and spicy flavors; this was a very attractive young pinot. This vintage showed some oak undertones but they were nicely integrated and extremely pleasing. With the wine flowing and our dinner guests relaxing, Guido shares more stories. He hails from Switzerland and moved to London in the fifties where he worked as a chef in the prestigious Savoy hotel. Next up, from the Graileys stash, was a perfect bottle of 1997 Tenuta Del Ornellaia. Guido raised his bushy eyebrows as he tasted this wine blind. Tom and Mauricio both went straight to Bordeaux on this one; full-on cedar, underbrush, and tobacco were shooting from the glass. The mouthfeel was pure velvet and no harsh edges. This was a great glass of wine that was the perfect complement to the great company we had that night.

Guido owns one of the best restaurants in town. We spent a long Sunday afternoon with him tasting through his menu and sipping on more Graileys treasures including a 1969 Remoissenet Nuits St George that was smoking and a perfect bottle of 1999 Dujac Clos St Denis that defies any descriptors. Suffice it to say it was a perfect marriage to Guido’s signature lasagna dish.

I think we will be visiting this island again and very soon. I see another Graileys tasting looming on the horizon.

 

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by | March 4, 2013

Simon in Telluride

By: Simon Roberts

A Very cool weekend in every sense of the word was spent in Telluride last week, the occasion –  A couple of our members  birthday’s and what better way to celebrate than with a few very special bottles . A small group gathered in a beautiful condo overlooking the mountain and sipped on some superb wines. A Trio of Spottswoode was first up, vintages 91, 94 and 07.

The 91 was showing beautiful fruit with a Bordelaise nose of earth and underbrush, the tannins have melted on this wine and it is drinking superbly well. Next up was the 94 which was for me a bit of a disappointment, it was slightly stewed and just never gained any momentum in the glass. The 07 made up for everything though, this is a legend of a wine in the making. massive fruit, perfect balance and  with layer after layer of pure cabernet essence.

The second flight of wines was a gift from one brother to another. 1974 Hanzell Pino Noir that was still showing great fruit, this was a classic vintage in California but my first foray into aPinot Noir from 1974 and it rocked, I have tasted older Hanzell chardonnays and been impressed in the past but this Pinot was full on and still strutting it’s stuff . Next was a sensational bottle of 1991 Chapoutier Hermitage La Pavillon, A wow wine in every sense of the word. The nose was pure Barbeque pit, smoky, meaty and earthy. The palate was stunning and my glass blossomed into greatness as the night progressed. How about a 1983 Mouton next… why not.  The 1983 vintage is often overlooked due to the greatness of 82 but make no mistake there are some stunning wines from this vintage and in true Mouton style this bottle showed it ‘s class and pedigree as the night and wine developed. Classic pencil lead nose with tobacco, leather and perfectly integrated fruit.  A great night in a stunning location was topped off with a 1990 Leoville Las Cases, no descriptors here, if you can find this wine in good shape get after it, it tells its own story.

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by | February 28, 2013

Rocking Tuesday

By the time clock struck 4pm, the place was abuzz with cork popping all over the room. My first stop was the 2006 Smith-Haut Lafitte Blanc. Youthful and aromatically expressive with big gooseberry, quince, lime blossom, orange peel and oaky notes. The palate is rich and full-bodied with pronounced toasty oak and vanilla along with juicy apricot, peach, tangerine and quince. Unabashedly oaky but great harmony and high energy on the palate. Long, citrusy finish. The creamy texture balanced by gobs of ripe fruit make this wine attractive to drink now. Personally, I’d like to see it in another five years; I’m hoping for a greater integration of the oak component.

My Man MM and Bill N were huddled around the bar area deciding what awesome wine to start their night with. Bill N was up first with his 2007 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve whose haunting liqueur-like aromatics filled the bar area as the wine was poured into glasses. Impressive purity of fruit here. Loads of raspberry ganache, wild berries, candied black cherries, licorice and sweet spice led to a beautifully smooth, succulent and broad palate. This wine’s seamless and fruit-driven structure nicely hits and fills every corner of your palate. Wow!

MM reciprocated with a bottle of 1982 La Mission Haut Brion which was really good on the outset but blossomed into an incredible bottle within two hours of sitting in the glass. It became broader on the palate and deeper in flavors. Savory notes on the front; peaty, charred wood, black truffle, scorched earth, leather, tobacco with a background of blueberry compote. Supple textured with well-integrated and ripe tannins. Just enough grip in the back end to balance all that flavor concentration. This was an exquisite bottle of wine that wowed me with its complexity.

MM followed up with the 1982 Camille Giroud Mazis-Chambertin. This pull came out of the left field as he is a Bordeaux and California Cabernet fanatic. But he apparently loved Mazis-Chambertin’s silky, sensuous texture. Fully mature with iron, leather, game, dried herbs and a background of roasted coffee on the nose and palate. Full-bodied and vibrant; velvet textured; persistent length.

This was turning into a proper Graileys night but what made this occasion more incredible is that all these amazing bottles were getting shared around the few groups we had in that night. As Bill N sauntered over to the closest table to share his wine, he recognizes an old acquaintance and promptly orders a bottle of 1990 Angelus for the table. This had amazing density, concentration and opulence. Packed with ripe black fruit flavors (plums, blackberries and currants) backed by tobacco, eucalyptus and green pepper. That addition of Cabernet Franc really added aromatic complexity. This is appealing right now but definitely youthful and has easily another 20 years of life ahead.

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by | February 26, 2013

Saturday at Graileys

By: AJ McClellan

Saturday Afternoon was a great tasting at Graileys. We had a good group in and some fun bottles were popped around the table. I would have to say the Cardinale was my wine of the night. It had some stiff competition but the elegant tannins and great fruit were showing very well.

1995 Phelps Insignia – This wine was showing well but not fantastic. The tannins were still grainy and the fruit, while being ripe and full of life, was hidden behind a wall of oak and wood spice.

1995 Cardinale – This bottle was surprisingly delicious. In a perfect drinking window right now the fruit was soft and refined with black and blue berries and the tannins were soft and well integrated. There was a subtle note of vanilla and tobacco that added to the complexities of the wine.

1998 Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis – This was a massive bottle with huge pepper, smoke, tobacco, tar, and leather on the nose. The palate was full of smoked meat massaged with black and white pepper and finished with cloves.

1998 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne – Normally one of my favorite bottles but this one was showing some signs of premature oxidization … That being said the wine was still palatable and there were still some pleasant quince and lemon/lime notes on the palate.

1994 Jarvis – Another very nice bottle of California Cabernet. The wine was showing signs of maturation with dry tannins and shriveling fruit but the wine was still hanging in there.

1997 Monsanto Chianti – This was a surprisingly good bottle of Chianti, drinking perfectly in the zone with dusty cherry, dry tobacco and liquorish.

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by | February 21, 2013

Bond Steals the Show

By: AJ McClellan

Yesterday was almost too much fun at Graileys. We had a few members in and a private party in the back room. While the back room was conducting business we popped a few epic bottles up front.

The star of the show was hands down the 1999 Bond Melbury, the wine was stunning with a soft plush mouth feel and harmonious balance.  

2000 Bouchard Montrachet – This was a bit confusing when we first opened it up. The nose gave notes that would suggest a great Montrachet – Flint, limestone, lime zest, and white flowers. But once you got the wine on your palate it changed completely to be rounder and with notes of melon and honey leading you to the belief that you are drinking a Charlemagne…  After some time in the glass the wine sorted itself out and the palate followed suit with the nose but it was a very interesting journey.

1996 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – This bottle was showing very well. The tannins were perfect for drinking and while they could of stood for a few more years I feel like we hit the sweet spot with this wine. Soft red fruits with clove and cedar undercurrents.

2004 Godolphin Shiraz – We popped this bottle and decanted it. After we poured the first glass we were ready to send it down the drain. No fruit, no earth, no anything… The wine was completely muted with no expression at all. We went back and revisited the wine about 90 minutes later and the bottle had exploded in the decanter! Full of brutish black fruits and dynamite cooking spice notes this wine was spectacular once it opened up.

1999 Bond Melbury – I have been on the fence with Bond wines as of late. Some have been good, some have been lacking, but none have had the “wow” factory that their pedigree would suggest. This bottle blew me away! The fruit was still young after 14 years in the bottle but exceedingly vibrant. The acidity balanced out the tannins perfectly and animated the wine on the palate.

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by | February 19, 2013

Champagne Friday

It was 3pm when members started trickling in for 2013’s first official bubbly tasting and it did not let up until after 8pm. And where was I? Right in the thick of things energized by all the sniffing and sipping going on around me.

First in the line-up was the elegant and creamy NV Henriot Blanc de Blancs. This was showing so well throwing some mature notes of brioche, toasty biscuit, vanilla custard backed by a core of ripe apples and pears. Dry with very persistent and delicate mousse on the palate. I just love the freshness in this wine.

The NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Extra was poured next which showed more structure and body packed white peach, apricot, baked apples and lemon notes with undertones of toasty oak. Round and creamy but with lemon-tinged acidity. I found this wine lacking in length and palate depth. Champagne Guy Charlemagne is a grower House which means that their wines are only produced from vineyards they own and control; major Champagne Houses buy most of the fruit they need from other grape growers in addition to owning their own vineyards.

Next opened was the NV Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut which wasn’t showing its best. I have always liked this bubbly but somehow it seemed disjointed on this tasting. It was full-bodied, dry and toasty but the palate seemed austere. The huge acid was great in theory but the fruit was so muted that the wine seemed out of balance. I’ve had many bottles of this wine that I know this wasn’t how the wine was supposed to drink. I think it just needed some extra bottle age to round the palate and allow to fruit to catch up with the high-acid, firm structure.

We tasted the 2002 Lanson Gold Label next which blew me away… lovely and penetrating aromas of flinty minerality, golden delicious apples, lemon custard, honey, sweet yeasty notes and acacia emanated from the glass; beautifully focused, defined acidity; full and creamy mouth feel. Incredible finish that went on for minutes. This was one of my favorite bottles of the night; impressed by the intensity and focus.

Next up was the NV Guy Charlemagne Rose which packed tons of red fruits in every pour; high-toned and tangy cherries, strawberries, plums, pink grapefruit and a touch of floral and baking spice notes. Creamy and persistent mousse; medium-bodied and dry. This is produced from 100% Pinot Noir and made in the saignee method where the juice is allowed to macerate with the grape skins to extract color and more flavors.

NV Bruno Paillard Rose was next in the line-up. Compared to the Guy Charlemagne, this had more finesse and elegance and much more delicate mousse. On the palate it was lighter but with deeper fruit flavors. The delicate mousse gave this wine an airy quality about it with wild strawberries, plums, hibiscus, red currant, cotton candy and cherries with a twist of fresh ginger. A touch of almond brioche. Zippy acidity marked this wine’s mouthwatering finish. Bruno Paillard only uses the juice from the cuvee or the first pressing which gives you the juice with the greatest intensity and depth of flavor; in practice, the first third of the first run (tete de cuvee) are reserved for the Houses’ premier offerings like Cristal from Louis Roederer and Dom Perignon from Moet Chandon.

The NV Bollinger Rose was up next and tasted next to the other two roses, this was obviously more hefty and structured. This was also showed more mature notes and complexity. Autolytic notes of lees, brioche and baked dough were more pronounced. Core of ripe red berries and cherries. Very dry, full bodied with laser-like acidity.

And just to finish the night off, David E decided it was time to pop the cork on his 1999 Clos des Goisses which was my WOTN. Philipponnat’s tete de Cuvee is truly an outstanding single-vineyard Champagne. We all learn in Champagne 101 that majority of Champagne is a blend of vintages, of grape varieties and of vineyards but there are a handful of vineyards that truly express terroir requiring that they be bottled unadulterated. This is the case with Clos de Goisses, a 5.5 hectare walled vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay. This Pinot Nor-dominated bubbly wowed me with its savory characteristics; notes of grilled hazelnuts, brown butter, baked pastry and subtle truffle notes, chalk, minerals, spice, floral. Full yet delicate with tremendous depth on the mid-palate. Very focused acidity and fine, persistent mousse.

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