I was minding my own business attempting to ride out the avalanche of phone calls and email inquiries about the 2004 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva… you know, Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year. I was barely surviving when a member walked in craving a nice bottle of Champagne. So, I happily obliged with a bottle of 1985 Dom Perignon from his cage. The wine was expressive and flamboyant on the nose showing an intense bouquet of lees, baked dough, quince and toast. On the palate, the effervescence was subdued emphasizing the creamy and lush mid-palate. Lees-driven in the mouth. Persistent finish; a touch of roasted hazelnut and minerality added complexity. A beautifully mature Champagne.
That bottle was all we needed to get the ball rolling. Next thing you know, AJ was in the locker room trying to figure out what to open for a client. I had a 1989 Las Cases in hand myself but when AJ settled on a bottle of 1982 Petrus, I thought it would be more interesting to grab another ’82 Bordeaux to taste next to it. So I settled on a 1982 Montrose.
The 1982 Petrus was reticent on the nose but the palate was absolutely compelling — textured, dense, and broad. Subtle notes of plums, smoke, blackberry, black cherries, and floral undertones slowly emerged as the wine sat in the glass. Very fine tannins and seamless. I was anxious to retaste this wine after half an hour in the glass… the nose never quiet got there but the palate became juicier and more succulent with a darker berry profile.
The 1982 Montrose was an absolute showstopper on the nose! Complex and intense with layered notes of aromatic herbs, tobacco, blackcurrants, graphite, and iron. Full-bodied, well-structured with chalky, firm tannins. With air, the wine blossomed revealing notes of licorice, incense and a sweeter fruit profile. I loved how the wine balanced the fruit with savory characteristics. This is drinking remarkably well now but, in my opinion, this has the stuffing for further aging. I preferred this over the ’82 Petrus.
