Water and Fire, Foley and Michel Noellat

By: AJ McClellan

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We had a lively group in yesterday, with several restaurant owners and a great group of passionate wine drinkers. The night started with a delightful bottle of the 2000 Dom Perignon Andy Warhol millennium bottling (the yellow one). This bottle has really come into its own softening the acidity that once was overwhelming in this wine and bringing out the soft stone fruit and lovely minerality. A slew of other wines follow the bubbles but two of my favorites were the 1978 Michel Noellat Echezeaux and the 2008 Foley Howell Mountain Cabernet. These two wines could not be more different as the Noellat was full of earth and was so light it took all of your concentration to pick up on the subtle earth and fruit nuances. While the Foley was a blockbuster Cab that showed massive black fruits that and tannins that were barely out of their shell. I must say the Noellat was probably my wine of the night and out of the three bottles I have had of this wine it was my favorite.

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Other wines of the night were NV Villmart,2008 Evesham Wood Pinot Noir, 2002 Nicolas Potel Echezeaux, 2008 Nicolas Joly Coulee de Serrant, 1993 Jadot Clos st Denis, 2007 Arnaud Ente Meursault, and 2002 Delamotte Champagne.

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LA’s Going Away Party

By: AJ McClellan

Friday was a very sad day for Graileys. One of our longtime family members and good friend – LA Perkel is leaving our Dallas location to take up residence in New York. However, it is not all bad news, fortunately LA will be staying in the company and we got to have an awesome party in her honor!

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Now the multitude of wines that were opened on Friday is far too numerous to talk about each on in turn so I will hit the highlights and leave the rest up to your imagination… We started strong with a bottle of 1982 Dom Perignon right out of the gate. The Dom was fantastic and still full of life showing apricot, honey, and wild flowers with a sourdough finish. Next, was a Duo of Sine Qua Non – the 2003 SQN Papa, and 2005 SQN Atlantis Grenache. Both were great bottles of wine but they were very different. The Papa was powerful and rich with black fruits and loads of pepper, leather, and meaty notes. The Grenache was very powerful as well but not quite as dark as the Syrah and showed more blue fruit than the deep black of the Papa.

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Another great wine that was opened was the 1992 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Cabernet. I have long been a fan of these wines and every time they are opened they surprise me with how fantastic the bottles are and how fresh the wines taste. The fruit was still ripe and full of bright red fruit, there was a pleasant mineral notes on the end of the palate and the finish was very long lasting. This was a fun bottle to taste next to the 1978 Michael Noellat Echezeaux which while still very good was at the opposite end of the spectrum with dried fruit and loads of earth.

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The wines of Bordeaux made a great appearance as bottle after bottle were opened, each wonderful in its own way. 1989 Clinet, 1988 Mouton, 2003 Pavie, 1999 Ducru Beaucaillou, 1990 Pichon Baron, and 1983 Pichon Lalande were the stars of the Bordeaux wines that were popped around the table. I particularly had an affinity for the 1989 Clinet which despite its age is showing incredibly fresh fruit and tannins that are still full and strong on the palate. The 2003 Pavie was another wine that was fun to try as it almost always reminds me of a great bottle of Harlan.

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Out of all the wines that were opened, I must say that the 1992 Hudelot Noellat Richebourg might have been my wine of the night. It was tough picking between all the great bottles but this one just stood out to me with its elegance and stunning crushed limestone notes combined with great fruit and silky tannins. Although, I feel that I must also mention the 1952 Remoissenet Clos Vougeot that was showing just great!

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2011 Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin VV, 1999 Jadot CLos st Denis, 2003 SQN Papa Syrah, 1978 Michae Noellat Echezeaux, 2006 Guigal Ex Voto, 2005 SQN Atlantis Grenache, 2007 Crocker & Starr Stone Place Cab, 1987 Beringer Private Reserve, 1992 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill, 2002 Pahlmeyer Red Blend, 2008 BV George de Latour, 2008 Verite Le Desir, 2011 Barbour, 2010 Jones Family Cabernet, 1990 l’Evangile 375ml, 1989 Clinet, 1983 Pichon Lalande, 2000 Pichon Lalande, 1989 Latour, 2003 Pavie, 1988 Mouton, 1990 Pichon Baron, 1990 Les Tourelles de Longueville, 2000 Monbousquet, 1990 Lagrange, 1999 Ducru Beaucaillou, 1999 d’Armailhac, 2002 Forts de Latour 1.5 Liter, 2009 Arnaud Ente Meursault, 2009 Arnaud Ente Meursault Goutte d’Or, 1952 Remoissenet Clos Vougeot, 1992 Hudelot Noellat Richebourg, 1969 Remoissenet Chambolle Musigny, 1993 JF Mugnier Les Fuees, 2002 Domaine Cempier Bandol, 2010 James Cole Cab, 2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltiner, 2008 Roederer Rose, 2010 Niepoort Redoma Blanc, 2010 Goldeneye Pinot Noir, 2010 Aegerter Chassagne Montrachet, 1955 Gould Campbell, 1983 Gilette, 1982 Dom Perignon, 2009 Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo, 2008 Niepoort LBV, 2010 Radio Coteau Alberigi Pinot Noir, 2012 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris, 2009 Foley Purple Label Cab, 1999 Chateau Moulin Saint Georges, and 2007 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello

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TexSom Takes Over The Four Seasons

By: Ryan Tedder

This last weekend the largest gathering of Master Sommeliers, Masters of Wine, Industry Folks and Wine Enthusiasts gathered at the Four Seasons Hotel in Los Colinas for the 10th Annual Texsom Conference. This is the largest such event in the USA and the brainchild of Master Somms James Tidwell and Drew Hendricks to bring people of the wine faith together to one place to literally geek out to some of the coolest, most thought-out tastings and elbow rubbing around. There is also a shadow competition going on during this madness pitting the best young sommeliers from around the state against one another for the chance to win a full scholarship to take their Advanced Exam with the Court and the official title of “Texsom” for the year. Winning Texsom 2012 was one of the coolest wine experiences of my life.  Needless to say, this past weekend was an endurance match for the wine lover and I can honestly say I learned more in 2 days than the last 6 months about some items that had been causing me much consternation. Anything for the pursuit of knowledge. Now to let my liver relax a bit…

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The event started out with a master class on the nuances of oak aging presented by the master from Taransaud. Sometimes once I move past the oak spices, smoke, toast and chocolate notes, the textural sensations and markers for oak have confused me in the past. We lined up the same exact wines in these flights with different oak changes to hone in on the differences of the wines. We spoke about “Seasoning” the oak and the terroir of the lumberyard as well as oak stave stacking techniques. Then we explored toasting differences and the amount of time spent in oak and its effect on tannins. We learned about all of the species of oak that make barrels and how they are constructed. Needless to say it was quite enlightening and I walked away feeling much more confident with my relationship with oak-all by 10am-That’s one hell of a breakfast!

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We proceeded to a a nice lunch with Napa wines and then a class on the History of Napa. With my man Ivan the Fiver by my side we rolled the competition in this class and I actually won the grand prize-a bottle of 2010 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I don;t have any photos of the class-after they said we won a prize, I zoned in on the “free wine” part.  Next we went to the hardest ticket to score for the whole tasting, the Burgundy’s Last Decade of the Last Century – ie 90s Red Burgundy Tasting. Graileys friends, I must tell you, we drink better wine every week than this tasting could supply. It was quite a treat to hear Fred Dame, Paul Roberts and Jay Fletcher talk about the wines but the vintages left some in the room wondering-why no 1993? 1996? 1999? Even 1992 is drinking like a stud right now. We had 2 superlative wines-1995 Fourrier Clos St. Jacques 1er Cru-the Burg of the Tasting-and a bottle of 1990 Camille Giroud Clos Vougeot that was just waking and a triumph of old school wine making. The other 2 1998s and 1997 were just good. Really nothing to write home about. We started with a bottle of 2011 Domaine Leflaive Meursault sous d’Ane because they could not find a bottle of white burg in enough quantity that was not premoxed from the 90s. This begged the question: “Have they fixed the problem with Premoxed White Burg?” To this question, much thrashing about and talking in circles ensued, but no actual definitive answers and a dismissive now it’s fixed… I guess we get spoiled drinking Burgundy at Graileys…

Texsom Germany Tasting

Texsom Germany Vineyard RobotThe hospitality suites were fun for the night – Kudos to Favorite Brands, Wassermann and Empson for all the smoking wines! We did an 80s party to Dallas and then had a foggy meal at Gemma. Quite the night! The next day started bright and early at 9:15am with a tasting of German wines! If you know me, you know I love German wines and Germany in general. This was an awesome tasting as well as a “State of the Union” address on German Wines Today, the Grand Cru System and the movement to dry wines and Pinot Noir. I learned that there is more Pinot Noir in Germany than in Burgundy. Also that they make some of the best dry Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc in the world as well as owning Riesling. Needless to say I was in heaven They also showed off a new German robot with spiked wheels to tend by remote control the high altitude, steep vineyards on the Mosel and the Rhein rivers. I put a picture above because I could not believe it myself. Do not be surprised if we have a random Gross Gewachs tasting at Graileys soon-these wines were fantastic!

Texsom RiojaAfter a nice lunch with Chilean wines (wow the prices have gone up!) we went to a Rioja tasting looking at 10 great wines from 5 wonderful producers. I was very impressed with the Artadi wines as well as the La Rioja Alta. The Murrieta Rioja Blanca was also a treat. I walked away feeling that I need to drink more Rioja! We headed to the Syrah master class after that and then off to the Grand Tasting. i was in a wine induced haze at that time and no photos would have helped. It was grand time has by all and not to be missed again next year!

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First Week at Graileys

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My first week at Graileys and I am blown away not only by the impressive labels being opened, but by the warm welcome from our members, clients, and the Graileys’ team.  As the temperature is going up and the children are trickling their way back to school, this week has been a little quiet in Graileys.  But that’s not stopping Graileys from opening great bottles!  Two bottles stood out to me: a vibrant vintage Champagne Rose and a strong 14 year old 5th Growth Bordeaux from Pauillac.

2008 Louis Roederer Brut Rose from the steep, clay and limestone slopes of Cumieres showed bright, ripe strawberries with a touch of citrus zest. The structure of this Champagne in its majority Pinot Noir blend was what really impressed us all. With an intense creamy texture and vibrant bubbles; counter balanced by the delicate fruit, fresh rose petals, and a touch of salinity, this is a perfect Champagne Rose to pair with the 100+ degrees of Texas heat!

The 2000 Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste was drinking impressively, showing deep black fruits with a profound richness in the mid-palate and multiple layers of savory goodness.  Dried herbs of sage and thyme, then notes of cedar, old leather and a touch of dill, followed by a layer of roasted pepper spice had us all talking! Not to mention the earth and mineral undertones adding yet another layer to this bottle! The tannins were still gripping and with another five years, will integrate very well with the long savory finish this vintage has to offer.

Other labels that have been quite popular this week:

2012 William Fevre Chablis Premier Crus Fourchaume

2009 Arnaud Ente Meursault

2009 Renato Ratti Barolo “Marcenasco”

2010 Switchback Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon

….And this is only the beginning….

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Battle of the Torbreck!

By: AJ McClellan

What makes a true Graileys night? Well, there needs to be wine, good times, and most of all good friends to share the bottles with… Last night was a Graileys night! We had a plethora of wines that were popped around the table. One of the cool comparisons was the 2001 Pichon Lalande vs the 2003 Cos d’Estournel. The Pichon showed better out of the bottle with bright fruit a light green note on the back end (after much deliberation we called it celery root) and subtle earthy notes. The Cos was bigger and a little closed down out of the bottle but as time went on the wine blew up in the glass! Dark berries with Bordeaux graphite and fresh earth were exploding from the wine. Simon nailed this one blind calling it either 05 or 03 Cos!

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 Another cool wine was the 2002 La Pousse d’Or Corton Bressandes GC. Corton Rouge can be such a great time but I find that more times than not it is disappointing. This bottle was perfect! As a member put it “dirty toenail clippings” the wine had plenty of funk but it is the kind of funk that you find in great jazz… The fruit was light and crisp backed by searing acidity and a rocky minerality held the wine in excellent balance.

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All of these wines however were just an opening act for the two bottles of Torbreck that you know who opened! The 2010 Torbreck Les Amis and Magnum of 2006 Torbreck Laird were simply stunning. We have been fortunate enough to have the Laird in here a few times, one of the rarest bottles to come out of Australia, but to have it in magnum was a true treat. The mouth coating tannins were soft and supple with layers of blackberry, plum, tobacco, and leather. It was hard to tear myself away from the glass but once I did I got into the Les Amis. A 100% Grenache, the Les Amis was a BEAST! Reminding me of a great bottle of SQN this wine was so floral I thought I smelled a bed of roses with lilies an violets sprinkled in… The fruit was softer then the Laird but still very pronounced. All in all these two bottles will be remembers for quite some time for the Graileys cru…

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Other bottles of the night included 2006 Draycott, 2010 Chapter 24 Pinot Noir, 2006 Quill Diamond Creek Cabernet, 2007 Arnaud Ente Meursault, 2010 Jones Cabernet, 2011 Fritz Haag, 2002 Leitz, and 1989 Leoville Barton.

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Friday Wine Roundup

cos d'estournel 95

Graileys has been abuzz with great wines this past week and Friday was very much on theme. We all thought we were off to an enviably good start as a bottle of 1986 Margaux made its way down the table. But lo and behold, this particular bottle was flawed showing excessively oxidized characteristics – raisiny, jammy fruit with hints of hazelnuts– with forest floor and underbrush. In the mouth, it showed some richness in the middle but was short on the finish. Very one-dimensional; the flavors were driven by the raisiny fruit. The only Margaux-like elements in the wine seemed to be the soft and elegant tannins. But never one to be discouraged, Simon was quick to unearth and pop the cork on a 1986 Pape Clement which was really expressive on the nose showing a rich bouquet of scorched earth, barbecue smoke and undergrowth; consistent flavor profile on the palate with a nice core of blackberries and hints of licorice and earth. This is definitely a wine showing its maturity and in my opinion, drinking at peak.

I was nursing my glass of Pape Clement when Ryan handed me a glass of white. “A blinder,” he says. Pale and brilliant lemon yellow in appearance with a pale, green hue. Tropical aromas along with ripe peach, pear, and grapefruit jumped from the glass. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with a nice richness; high-acid and mineral-driven. The wine’s ripe tropical fruit and medium-plus alcohol led me to the New World. I thought with the structural elements (high acid, medium-plus alcohol,) and the fruit profile, perhaps Australian Riesling? This turned out to be a 2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner ‘Lamm’. Darn, where was the white pepper spice or the herbaceousness? And what’s up with the upfront tropical fruit? Tricky, tricky wine.

Next up was the utterly amazing and memorable 1995 Cos d’Estournel! I have had a few bottles of 95 Cos in the last 12 months and this wine has had a consistent showing. In my opinion, this is in a perfect drinking spot. Gorgeous nose of tobacco, cedar, roasted espresso beans balanced by a core of blackberries and black currants. Full bodied and richly structured, some tannins on the finish but very harmonious and well-integrated. Remarkable finish marked by sweet, black fruits and coffee beans. This is my kind of wine and I think that after 2.5 years at Graileys, most members are now on to me. They know when I’m having a wine moment because I nose the wine 10 times before I take the smallest of sips.

A bottle of 2009 Renato Ratti Barolo ‘Marcenasco’ was opened next and shared around the table. I love this old-school style of Barolo, the rusticity takes me to Italy every time. The wine opened with pronounced eucalyptus and menthol aromas. As I let the wine sit in the glass, notes of licorice, dusty cherry, tar and floral hints became evident as well. Impressive complexity in such a young wine. The flavors may be rustic but the tannins were quiet polished. Great freshness and persistent length.

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Other wines in the line-up:

1999 Cristal

2010 Favia Cabernet Sauvignon

2011 Barbour Cabernet Sauvignon

2010 Robert Foley Merlot

2010 Guado al Tasso

2006 Turley Rattlesnake Ridge Petite Syrah

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Nicolas Joly Coule de Serrant is Rocking!

By: AJ McClellan

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It was an easy night last night. We tasted a few good wines, but one in particular stood out to me. The 2008 Nicolas Joly Coule de Serrant was a real treat to taste. Planted in the year 1130 these vines bring a whole new meaning to the term “Old Vine”. We tasted the bottle after it had been open for a full day and believe me; it could have used another day to open up. The nose started with warm apple pie and a slight petrol note and then went into a quince and slate nuance. The palate was full and boisterous with a thick mouth feel and tons of beautiful stone fruits. I did not keep the wine in my glass long, it was such a pleasure to drink but I know that with a decade or so in the bottle this wine will be a true stunner!

Some other wines of note that we tasted were the 2000 Dominique laurent Clos st Denis , 2013 Donnhoff Trocken – a fun 100% dry Riesling – and a 2010 d’Ardhuy Bourgogne Blanc

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Let’s Talk About Meursault Yo

By: Ryan Tedder

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It is jaw dropping how high the quality of our July’s wine drinking has been! Just a random Monday this week and then BAM! 2 Bucket List White Burgundies and the next rock star of Meursault-they all blew my white wine loving mind! After the wines were drank and the dust had settled, I can tell you that Arnaud Ente is the next rock star of Meursault,. Last night we drank though the undisputed kings of Meursault- Coche-Dury Les Rougeots 1996 & Domaine Roulot Les Perrieres 1992and the 2009 Meursault from Arnaud Ente. The Coche-Dury and the Roulot were both perfect, non-premoxed, uber-rich and layered yet balanced. 2 of the best Chardonnays made in the world and 2 “Bucket List” Wines. I can say with confidence: Arnaud Ente more than held his own at this tasting. We all agreed that his wines are stunning and will age and improve for 15 years easy.   Arnaud Ente learned his craft as the winemaker at the now famous Coche-Dury, whose wines are impossible to find and are priced out the reach of several. Ente is a meticulous winemaker. He pays top dollar for the best corks in the market picking them by hand and even custom designed his own hoses in the winery to eliminate oxygen transfer. He does not make prem-ox wines. Simply put: These White Burgs are the real deal. 

As it always happens, several other stunning wines were enjoyed:

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The List of Stunners Included:

1982 Pichon Lalande

2005 Guigal La Landonne Cote-Rotie

1966 Remoissenet Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux-Saint-Jacques 1er Cru

2002 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon

2000 Laurent Mazis Chambertin

1989 Chateau de Beucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape

1999 Chateau Ausone

2010 Ornellaia Masseto

1994 Hartwell Reserve Cab

1993 Colgin Herb Lamb Cab

2009 Favia Cerro Sur

Great times were had by all!

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Sine Qua Non This is Not an Exit Syrah 2009

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Ivan the Fiver’s 2009 Sine Qua Non This is Not an Exit Syrah was a knockout wine. From the explosive nose of blackberry jam, black raspberries, plums, licorice, roasted esperesso beans and floral notes to the chewy, succulently textured palate, this was decadence in a glass. Inky and deeply concentrated, sweet fruit-driven, powerfully structured yet startlingly balanced.  The This is Not an Exit Syrah is another testament to Manfred Krankl’s genius at producing concentrated and powerful yet balanced wines.

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The 2007 Arnaud Ente Meursault has been one consistent white Burgundy; this is probably the 5th bottle we have opened from this lot in a week and every single time, the wine is an epitome of precision and elegance.  An intense flinty minerality was the first whiff I got as I put my nose to the glass. I swirled and subtle notes of sweet citrus, pear, white peach and white blossoms were evident. In the mouth, the wine was medium-bodied but displayed this sexy richness in the mid-palate that was reined in by a backbone of smoky, flinty minerality. Persistent length was marked by a citrusy acidity. As the wine sat in the glass, hazelnut undertones started coming through adding a layer of complexity and richness to this youthful wine.

The 2011 Comte Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre, tasted next to the 2007 Arnaud Ente Meursault, showed a more luscious, ripe peach component along with citrus notes. Broader and more generous on the palate with subtler minerality. This was drinking great but I thought this was lacking on the finish.

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The day’s line-up also included:

1998 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet

2010 Georges Vernay Condrieu Coteau de Vernon

2001 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Colgin Cariad

1982 Leoville Barton

1999 Monbousquet

1995 Chateau Clinet

NV Krug Grande Cuvee

1999 Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers

1993 Hudelot Noellat Romanee-St-Vivant

1997 Hudelot Noellat Richebourg

 

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Two Day Old Dom Perignon?

By: AJ McClellan

Last night was one of those nights that were spontaneous fun… We had a good group come in and start popping stunning bottle after stunning bottle. We opened around 14 bottles or so but the highlights are just too fun…

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We started with a unique bottle. 1970 Dom Perignon Magnum – now 70 DP is not that unusual but the thing is this wine had been opened two days previously and kept in the fridge. We poured it just to see what was going on and it turned out really great! I blinded it as a Chenin from Loire Valley with its rich nuttiness and abundant honey notes. After finding out what it was this wine just just fun to drink. I am sure I would have liked it more freshly out of the bottle but it was still cool to try it this way…

Next we tasted a duo of Bordeaux’s. First was the 1986 Pichon Lalande which was smoking. Some of the 1986 wines are a little tight right now but this bottle was lavish and very giving with dry black fruit and generous graphite on the finish.  We compared the 86 to a 1988 Las Cases which was also drinking very well right out of the bottle with bright fruit and nice earthiness. The 88 did fall off on the finish however which gave it the impression of lacking that final punch…

Next was a duo of Chardonnays, the 2002 Marcassin Three Sisters and 2001 Kongsgaard Chardonnay. The Marcassin was stunning with crisp acidity and lively citrus notes finishing with a great minerality and vanilla bean characteristic. The Kongsgaard on the other hand was a not what we were hoping for. There was still a nice banana note with some tropical fruit but the palate was slightly oxidized showing sweet honey and lacking in acidity.

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Other bottles of the night were 1994 Chapoutier Pavillon, 1999 Jaboulet La Chapelle, 1998 Le Petite Cheval, 2010 Bret Brothers Pouilly Fuisse, NV Ruinart Rose, 2004 Dom Perignon, 2010 Cape Mentelle, and 1998 Chateau Cabrieres CDP. 

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