A Dinner with California’s Most Wanted

My apologies for my little blog hiatus but I am back in the Big D, in my wine zone at Graileys and am in full swing! After an insane week in Philadelphia for the Court of Master Sommeliers Advanced Exam I took an extended weekend to decompress and visit friends and family in North Carolina. Upon my return I held a smoking dinner with Chef Tre Wilcox that definitely made up for any time lost while I was away pouring some of the rarest bottles in the ultra-luxury line of fine wine.

Colin Meyer Dinner

My guests started with a bottle of 2004 Dom Perignon Brut Rose Champagne and a bottle of 2012 Futo 5500 Cabernet Sauvignon for their reception. Ever since the Tete de Cuvee Champagne Blind Tasting Ryan did at Graileys, I cannot get ‘04 Dom P Rose Champagne out of my mind! The 04 Rose is a stunning attack to the palate with brilliant minerals, juicy tart red fruits, precision and power. This is a Rose Champagne you will want to get your hands on.

 

Speaking of power… I poured a strong flight of Cabernets that would rock any Cali Cabernet fanatic’s world.  We showcased some of the rarest and most coveted Cabernets from the perfect 2012 and one from 2011. From 2012 Futo 5500, we jumped into Lokoya’s 100 and 99 pointers: Mt. Veeder and Howell Mountain, respectively; with 2011 Tusk and 2012 Scarecrow to finish the dinner. We then sealed the deal with a bottle of the 1994 Colgin Herb Lamb Cabernet Sauvignon that was breathtaking. It was difficult to choose a favorite amongst these glorious beasts but as you could imagine, they were all utterly extraordinary.

 

2012 Futo 5500- We have always loved everything that comes from Futo, but the Futo 5500 will blow your mind. From their newly acquired vineyard in a hidden pocket of Stags Leap District, the 5500 offers generous dark fruit with crushing minerals, charcoal and deep herbs. This full bodied wine is beautifully balanced with brighter acidity, incredible expansive mid leading into an equally seductive finish.

 

2012 Lokoya Mt. Veeder- 100 points Robert Parker- The Mt. Veeder was on par with the 2012 Scarecrow in terms of richness, weight and style. Black fruits throughout with brooding layers of baking spice, rich vanilla and dark cocoa- this is one to keep in the cellar for decades.

 

2012 Lokoya Howell Mountain- 99 points Robert Parker- The Howell Mountain was more giving than the Mt. Veeder with flashy ripe fruit and beautifully integrated oak, also can sleep in the cellar for decades, but the Howell’s notes are a pinch brighter when tasted side by side to Mt. Veeder.

 

2011 Tusk- 100 points GK- We don’t always drink 2011; but when we do, we drink Tusk. You know Tusk is badass when the 2011 Tusk was one of the winners of the night alongside 100 pointers, ’94 Colgin and ’12 Scarecrow. There are not many Napa Cab ‘11’s I would happily open and pour, but the 2011 Tusk is the one Cab I would rather have than most Napa Cabs from 2012. Tusk is one of my favorite boutique Cabernets and one to snag if you ever come across it. The 2011 Tusk is seductive, from the allure of the bottle to the final breath on the finish. Once you try this bottle, you will be haunted to the end of days.

 

2012 Scarecrow- 98 points Robert Parker- The 2012 Scarecrow is hedonistic to the core and was the star of the night. This Napa unicorn was a bomb of Cabernet glory. As if Scarecrow’s rarity and elite status was not enough, the 2012 vintage launched Scarecrow into overdrive at the Napa Wine Auction this year with a raised paddle for over $4,000 a bottle!

 

1994 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard- After a flight of powerhouse, youthful Cabernets, my guests still had room for just one more. I couldn’t think of another bottle to open for my guests other than a bottle of 1994 Colgin Herb Lamb to end with a bang. This is one of my favorite bottles of wine that I have ever tasted. I can still taste it like it was Tuesday, and before that, I could still taste it like it was the day after our epic Colgin event. Wildly profound, expansive to the 10th power, multi-dimensional flavors of perfect fruit, rounded spice, rich earth, worn leather, powdered cocoa, dried red and purple flowers and dried vanilla. If you want to experience the word awesome via wine, this bottle is it.

 

1936 Chateau Sisqueille Rivesaltes- Lastly, I poured a bottle of wine from 1936 to pair with Chef Tre Wilcox’s chocolate cardamom panna cotta with toasted pumpkin seeds, coffee infused honey and ripe blackberries. This dessert wine offered gorgeous notes that are akin to vintage tawny port, its flavors and light texture paralleled the dessert course wonderfully. Spiced figs and sweet plums, caramelized brown sugar, vanilla and ginger filled the palate with hints of honey and candied pear.

 

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**Disclaimer: Aside from the 2012 Scarecrow and the 1994 Colgin, these Cabernets were opened and decanted for a solid 4-5 hours before the tasting. They are mere babies and should be approached with caution. The sheer power and ripeness alone can knock out an MMA fighter with a single glass of wine ecstasy.**

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A Burg of a Day

By: AJ McClellan

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We started with the Roulot which is stunning! Showing banana bubblegum, crushed limestone, canned peaches, and apricot. There is a searing acidity with a minute long finish.
The 2000 Ponsot is meaty on the nose, almost like a hermitage. Showing notes of soy sauce, brisket, dusty red cherry, and scorched earth. The palate defies the nose showing lovely red cherry, violets, and smoked tobacco… Not a bad way to start the day

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The Best Wine This Year!

By: AJ McClellan

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The 1961 Latour a Pomerol was one of the better bottles I have ever had in my life! The nose opens with oceans of black currants with a crust of dried anise, crushed graphite, bramble, and dried violets. The palate is still quite alive with black fruits and amazing freshness. After about a hour in the glass the wine starts to show leather, damp soil, and mushrooms. The finish is of spice box and cigar wrappers. The wine continues to evolve in the glass bringing out black truffles, raspberry Grenache, and coffee grounds. The tannins are still present but in the way a loving father is present to make sure you don’t fall once you get your raining wheels off… Long lasting acidity carries the wine for a minute plus.

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Unicorns Do Exist

What a night! Friday was packed with members opening fantastic bottles and as you can imagine with my title, we were very privileged to experience a very rare and special wine: 2002 Haut Brion Blanc. 13 years has done a lot on this true Bordeaux gem but you would not be able to call its age as the wine was so alive with bright sweet citrus and spice! Sweet limes, lemon curd and juicy grapefruit raced through the creamy palate while savory and complex elements of lemongrass and fresh and dried herbs swirled within. There were subtle hints of white blossoms, soft peach, sweet cream and vanilla that really counterbalanced the wine’s minerality while adding a very seductive touch. Wow, what a treat to experience this extraordinary bottle!- Mind and Palate Was Thoroughly Blown!

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We also opened two vintages, a decade apart, of Graieys house Bordeaux: 1996 Pichon Lalande and 2006 Pichon Lalande. The ’96 Pichon Lalande has been one of my favorite Second Growths to open. I think it is showing in a fantastic spot for Bordeaux with just the right amount of fruit still present while showcasing the elegance, the beauty, the complexities and the powerful structure of Pichon Lalande. You know this will take you well into another decade without remorse. Even though the 2006 Pichon Lalande is a baby, it showed quite well after a solid 3 hour decant; expressing generous fruit and power, enough for any Francoskeptics to enjoy. Dark minerals of crushed graphite, dense earth and wild mushrooms were followed by fresh leather and tobacco, wild herbs and near brooding spice. This shadow vintage will be fantastic to revisit with another decade in the cellar, but was pretty darn terrific for the present glass for those who seek more fruit.

1982 Talbot was a nice surprise. Tart red fruit was delicately hanging on while dense tobacco and cigar ash took charge of the palate. Dried herbs, dried clay, iron and dried rose petals elevated the mid but the finish went straight back with cigar, tobacco and matured leather.

1995 Fischer Vineyards Wedding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Was a stunner!!! One of my favorites of the night with sweet Cali fruit and densely rounded spice. Everything about this bottle was seamless and ridiculously delicious.

Fantastic Bottles From The Night…
2006 Pichon Lalande
2009 Arnaud Ente Meursalt Seve du Clos
1995 Fischer Vineyards Wedding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
1997 ZD Cabernet Sauvignon
2012 El Molino Chardonnay
2002 Gibson Barossa Shiraz
2010 Numanthia
1989 Cos d’Estournel
1967 Calon Segur
NV Jose Dhondt Brut Champagne
1995 Guigal Cote Rotie
2012 Relic Kashaya pinot noir
1999 Solengo
2004 La Brune Servenay Champage
1982 Talbot
2011 Ornellaia
2010 Keever Insperado
2012 Orin Swift Papillon
2007 Merry Edwards Russian River Pinot Noir
2012 Glaetzer Amon Rah Barossa Shiraz
1998 Peter Michael Moulin Rouge
2012 Bosquet des Papes Chantes de Merle Chateauneuf du Papes Vieilles Vignes 1.5 L
2006 Louis Roeder Brut Starck

The Night’s Best Guilty Pleasures…
1999 Pride
2012 Robert Foley Claret
2012 Robert Foley Merlot
2012 Robert Foley Hudson Vineyards Pinot Noir
2012 Dancing Hares Proprietary Red

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How Can The Night Get Any Better?

By: AJ McClellan

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Great beginning to the day! The 2009 Leroy d’Auvenay les Narvaux is a experience in a glass, absolutely amazing! Toasted popcorn with corn nuts leap from the glass, exploding on the nose. The toast is so powerful it is hard to pick out the other nuances but if you look very hard you can find candied lemon rind, gram cracker, and green apple. The palate is complex and powerful with the toast taking lead, paving the way for hints of minreality, sharp fruit, and bitter nut skin. This wine is extremely primary right now, but with sometime in the bottle there is no doubt in my mind it will be one of the stars in any collection.

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After some great Burgundy and some excellent Rhone where else is there to go other than Bordeaux? This 99 Latour is just superb out of the bottle. I decanted it for 30 min and the nose is showing beautiful notes of purple Pez with blueberry and purple flowers. The palate is bold and well structured but the tannins are on the edge of being velvety. Great length on the plate with beautiful bright fruit, hints of graphite, and some dark earth… Watch out when popping this wine because it is throwing tons of sediment.

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Taking the plunge! Another taste of the 04 unico. This wine is showing much like last week. A solid Spanish beauty! The 98 d’Auvenay Is richer and creamier than the 09 but there is still a good amount of toast with bright lemon, key lime pie, limestone, and hints ok kiwi… The plate is mineral driven with a toasty oak note of shaved vanilla bean.

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New World Cab and Old World Chard. A Beautiful Combo…

 

By: AJ McClellan

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Wow, I thought the Lafon was stunning with quince, toasted popcorn, apricot, white peach, limestone, and summer flowers. But this 95 Shafer hillside is out of this world!! Rustic ripe plum, with wild boysenberry, and blueberries. There is a slight spice that is perfectly integrated with the fruit, just peaking out around the edges with cedar, anise, and clove. The palate is velvety and expansive, covering the whole mouth. A finish of blueberry jam with crushed granite and dried tobacco…

 

 

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Around the World with Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Spain…

By: AJ McClellan

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Last week was a load of fun. We started off drinking some killer Burgs with the 1986 Mugneret Echezeaux and a 1991 Giroud Clos Blanc 1er. The 86 is showing truffle, clean earth, sour cherry, and dried tobacco leaf. The 91 is still bright with soft leather, black cherry, and cooking spice.

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The 190 Palmer was star of the sow in our next round. Showing big graphite with limestone and crushed rock. Great minerality with dried tobacco wrappings stored in a well seasioned cedar box. Dusty blueberries and rustic fading plums. Libgering spices from a apple pie, great rustic finish. Will conteniou to improve for the next 5 years. The 2002 Cos d’Estournel was still young with notes of ripe black cherry and liquorish.

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The icing on the cake was a 2004 Unico! A wall of vanilla jumps from the glass with dill, cedar, cigar box, and nutmeg. The oak notes are overwhelming, but if you study the wine for long enough you get a beautiful black cherry sweetness that is followed by anise and a dash of pepper. The finish is long and surprisingly soft for how powerful this wine is. I would give it another 15 years in the bottle before I pop the next one…

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Dynamic Friday

We were back at it in full swing last Friday with many terrific bottles opened on the tables and even better company to match them. We opened a bottle of the 2011 Kumeu River Coddington Vineyard Chardonnay for members as they came in from the heat. Crisp but with good texture, lively aromatics and flavors of pink grapefruit, white peach, lime blossoms and a touch of almond skin; the wine becomes more complex in the mid with notes of fresh ginger and river rock minerality. I highly recommend this New Zealand stunner for any white Burgundy fan and even for those who claims their detestation for Chardonnay- you will be shocked with how amazing this Chardonnay shows.

 

The wine of the night was the 1986 Domaine Mongeard Mugneret Grand Cru Echezeaux Vieille Vigne and it was showing at a fantastic stage for the vintage. Red and black cherries were ripe and beautifully preserved with incredible layers of dried herbs, dried soil and toasted spice. It was such a beautiful wine, rich and round on the palate with great depth and complexity; not to mention a finish that was warm and almost never ending.

 

The impressive obscure wine of the night (but fantastically amazing!) was a bottle of 1991 Sekt Reserve by Peter Lauer. This is a sparkling Riesling from the Mosel Saar Ruwer and made in the traditional ‘champagne’ method. Aged on its lees until 2013, Peter Lauer is a huge hit in NY and up and down the east coast; so I am very excited to see that his Sekt has finally made its way to Texas! Zingy, crunchy green apples, fresh apricot, quince and bright minerals are all jam-packed into each of the extremely tiny bubbles. I have a few bottles of this at home which I have been holding on to, but knowing I can get more of this terrific sparkling wine in Texas, I am very excited for my near future.

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We had the pleasure of experiencing a horizontal tasting of Loring Wine Company’s 2007 vintage of three single vineyard Pinot Noirs: Gary’s Vineyard, Rosella’s Vineyard and Durell Vineyard. Each Pinot was intensely extracted with dark red and black cherry and cola, but the Durell Vineyard stood out to me as the broadest shouldered Pinot with expansive flavors and depth. The Rosella’s was the most feminine in style leaning towards tarter, juicy red berries, raspberries and elegant spice.

 

The 1990 Palmer was my favorite of the night! Sexy, seamless and seductive, this beauty had the perfect amount of concentrated black and blue fruit, deep earth tones and dense spice. All the flavors were intricately compacted together with heaps of herbs, purple petals and cedar leading into a haunting finish.

 

We went out strong with the last bottle of the night being the 2004 Vega Sicilia Unico. Loads of ripe, jammy red and black fruit with flavors of wild herbs, rosemary, oregano, tarragon, blood orange zest, tomato vines, leather and dense clay all beautifully integrated in the palate while sweet vanilla, clove and fresh dill hovered well into the finish. There were many more fantastic bottles opened throughout the night as shown on the list below:

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2006 Moet et Chandon Grand Vintage Brut Champagne

2002 Dom Ruinart Brut Champagne

NV Gonet Medeville Rose Champagne

2014 Azur Rose 3 Liter

2007 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

2010 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape

2006 Pontet Canet

1990 Les Forts de Latour

2004 Juslyn Cabernet

2012 Robert Craig Affinity

1991 Camille Giroud Pommard Clos Blanc

2002 Cos d’Estournell

2002 Nicolas Potel Volnay

2009 Croix de Labrie

1997 Nicolas Potel Santaney

 

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Tete de Cuvee Champagne Blind Tasting with Sushi

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Kim and I were talking a few months back about how good all of the different Tete de Cuvee Champagnes are and we wondered aloud how much the label (ie knowing what you are drinking and the price) affects the individual’s flavor impression and reaction to the wine. We could both think of circumstances in which extremely expensive wines were given more lee-way in having off/strange/tired flavors that other less “prestigious” wines. We decided to put together a Blind Tasting of Tete de Cuvee Champagnes and loosely pair it with some fantastic sushi from our friends from Oishii Sushi off of Maple. The line-up for the night would include 4 Bruts and 4 Roses and we would hold the tasting single blind. The thought process being that we wanted to have people debate pre-dinner what the winners would be and get excited about the event. In a perfect world maybe next time we do it double blind.  It was a great time had by all! Here were some shots from the evening:

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The Brut Champagnes for the dinner were these:

1998 Henriot “Cuvee des Enchanteleurs”

2002 Pol Roger “Sir Winston Churchill”

2002 Salon

2006 Louis Roederer “Cristal”

The Rose Champagnes for the dinner were these:

NV Armand de Brignac Rose

2004 Moet & Chandon “Dom Perignon Rose”

2004 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame Rose”

2004 Bollinger “La Grande Annee Rose”

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The methodology was pretty simple: we poured all 4 of the Bruts before people came into the room. I decanted the 4 Roses and put them in the fridge. We poured them after I had talked about all of the Bruts before we did the vote taking and the reveal. We took a vote of the room to determine the Best Brut and the Best Rose. Simon counted the votes and much smack was talked. Some people identified all four of the Brut Champagnes blind but the Rose were more elusive blind.  The votes were cast and the winners were identified:

The 1998 Henriot Cuvee des Enchanteleurs won for Best Brut and 2004 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rose won for Best Rose. 

The Brut category was really spectacular but the 1998 Henriot was a real stand out taking 8 votes. It was by far the most mature of these bottlings with 17 years of age on it and I think that maturity really proved beneficial in this format. By contrast, the 2006 Cristal was bright, toasty, pure and taught. I loved the Cristal but it was in need of some cellar aging to flesh our the myriad of Orchard, Stone and Citrus fruits. There was a beautiful pear tart component and a salty element that were awesome there too. The Cristal only got one vote. The 2002 Winston Churchill was my personal favorite and it got three votes. It was powerful, bold, layered and expansive. It was the one Brut I wanted to pilfer a bottle for myself to drink listening to classical music with a cigar. The 2002 Salon was a bundle of power that needs a good decade of aging to reach approach-ability. Salt, green apple, electricity, chalk, citrus blossoms, iodine, sourdough and spice came through in wave after wave of spectacular flavor. That 2002 Salon is a special wine for the future.

The Roses were a lot harder to tell the difference between producers and 3 of the 4 were from the 2004 vintage so variability with age was a non-factor. The NV Armand de Brignac Rose did the least good only winning one vote but the wine was pure and delicious, even if it did lack some of the autolytic richness presented by the other, more well-received Roses from the tasting. Fresh strawberries, pomegranate and orange zest marked this slurpable Ace of Spades Rose. The 2004 Bollinger La Grande Annee Rose was also a bit more fruit dominant and more oxidative in style (like the house style would indicate) and it only managed a vote or two as well. Nice and tasty with cranberry, red cherry and strawberry notes to go with the fresh red and pink flowers and I even think I smelled cotton candy in there. It was my least favorite Champagne of the night but I would still happily kill a bottle all by myself:) The crowd was pretty evenly split between the 2004 Dom P Rose and the 2004 La Grande Dame Rose. I personally thought the 2004 Dom Perignon Rose was the best Rose on the table. Unlike the 2003 Rose, the 2004 had a precise, chalky, even funky nose of great Champagne with the toasty, autolytic richness that makes Dom P world-renowned. This is the newest Rose release and this puppy will drink majestically for 25 years from now. If 2004 is a special year for you, stock up!  In comparison, the 2004 La Grande Dame Rose was drinking majestically today with a Pinot Noir dominated richness that makes this Rose so exquisite. I drank another bottle of it yesterday and there is a real plumpness of ripe sweet citrus and red berry fruit that goes down so darn smooth. The richness that LGD always has showed through as well. I would be happy to age this bubbler as well but there is no need. It is divine now!

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As always happens at Graileys, several other killer bottles were opened and enjoyed. These wines included:

2005 Bellovedere

2013 Ceritas Chardonnay Peter Martin Ray Vineyard

2006 Francois Gaunoux Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er Cru

NV Krug Grande Cuvee

2010 Opus One

2011 Opus One

2013 Entre Nous Rose

1998 Troplong Mondot

1969 Faiveley Charmes Chambertin (Freaking Awesome!!)

2012 Dominus “Napanook”

2010 The Grade Cab

1976 Cos d’Estournel

2013 Arista Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard

2004 SQN Pokerface Syrah

2011 Denis Mortet Lavaux St Jacques 1er Cru

2012 Philip Togni Cab

2012 Espectacle del Montsant

2012 Futo OVSL

2008 Jack Quinn Cab

Whew… That was a great time had by all!!

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Mid-Week Stunners

There is nothing like opening up some fantastic wines to pull you through the dog days of summer. This week we have opened some stunning bottles that are worth mentioning and definitely worth seeking for your own if you have not yet had them. As you all probably already know and are experiencing for yourselves, 2012 Napa Cabernets are blowing everything out of the water and the 2012 Dominus is nothing short of amazing. After a few hours in the decanter, it opened up with insane power but with incredible balance. The fruit was concentrated and dense, but there were plenty of other elements that complemented the perfectly ripe black berry and black cherry fruit, while making their own contributions to the richness by coating the palate with dense dark spice, wild herbs, toasted cedar and slate. A mere infant indeed; but a beautiful one that will grow into that much more of a stunner with decades in the cellar.

My white wine of the week was a striking bottle, the 2011 Leroy Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru Sous le Puits. From the most northwestern corner of Puligny Montrachet, Leroy takes the steep Premier Cru hillside Sous le Puits into another world… But I guess she does that to wines from just about any vines she nurtures. This is a white to decant. With air and time, it became intricately layered and complex. Starting with lemon rind and lime blossoms, it opened up to yellow apples, green pears and tart yogurt. There was purity in its intense minerals that cut through the palate, more like soft flint and river rocks. There is something so wonderfully profound in every Leroy bottle that is rarely paralleled by others in the world, much less in Burgundy. Give this bottle more time in the cellar and it will blow up into a whole new ballpark of yet another beautiful bottle of Leroy.

The ’94 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva is one that rocks my wine world! When I first tried it a few months back, Ryan and I tried it against a ’75 Ducru Beaucaillou and with the age of the Rioja and the even more significant evolution of the Ducru, it was like splitting hairs. So it was quite a treat to revisit this Spanish sovereign. Beautifully aromatic and ridiculously silky, this 21 year old Rioja greeted us with fresh notes of candied cherry, ripe red plum, fresh bay leaves while soft iron, dried oregano, dill and sage, smooth leather, creamy vanilla and dried tobacco sealed the deal well into the finish. The flavors are seamless yet expansive, a complete balance of the perfect elements you would want in a great bottle of Rioja: fresh fruit followed by lively minerality and deep savory herbs and spices. And did I mention it is simply Yum!!

Other Fantastic Bottles We Enjoyed This Week…
2012 Darius II
2012 Espectacle de Monstant
2013 Muller Catoir Haardter Riesling GG Breumel in den Mauern
2010 Le Macchiole Paleo
1997 Nicolas Potel Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
1995 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle Chambertin
2005 Grand Puy Lacoste
2010 Chateau Montelena
2008 Jack Quinn
2007 Tardieu Laurent Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Speciale

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