Burgundy and Bordeaux. It Doesn’t Get Much Better.

By: AJ McClellan

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Great night at Graileys last night!! The 66 Leroy Morey st Denis was killing it with truffles, raisins, and sous bois. But the real surprise was the 70 Palmer. The wine was at the end of its life, but right out of the bottle there was a gasp of prunes and spice box with gravel and tobacco. The wine fell off quickly but was a pleasure to drink for the first 30 min…

 

The 1989 Cos is always a stunning with with just the right balance of fruit and earth it is in a perfect drinking window right now and will only get better with more time in the bottle. I was also a huge fan of the 1978 Remoissenet Les Beaumonts which was very spry for its age. Sweet red currant with ceder, vanilla, and clove.

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An Evening With Tim and Carlo Mondavi

Last week, we had a phenomenal event hosting California’s winemaking royal bloodline: Tim and Carlo Mondavi. Tim and Carlo generously showcased 2008, 2010 and 2012 vintages of their rightfully named, Pritchard Hill project: Continuum. The 2010 Continuum has a beautiful nose with vibrant fruit seeping from the glass. The palate offered a more serious structure with gorgeous flavors of wild red and black fruit, dark spice and deep minerality. The 2008 had the most dimensions with a hedonistic layer after layer of juicy black fruit, wild herbs, plush flowers, crushed cocoa, espresso and deep earth. But the crowd favorite was the 2012… it’s sexy, refined, powerful, graceful, generous yet focused all in one glass. Red and black currants were fresh and tart with vibrant layers of baking spices, creamy vanilla, fresh turned soil and violets with hints of menthol that brightened up the wine. Overall, the Continuum lineup was smoking!!
Continuum

While enjoying the Continuum, we had to open some bottles for Tim and Carlo so we turned to France to blow their minds. First to bat was the 2011 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne Romanee- a beautiful, young red Burgundy with bright red cherries upfront and fresh compost and mushrooms in the mid-palate. It was a very, very good bottle of red indeed. This was a great start for the night, but just quite didn’t hit the spot for this occasion. Next on deck: 2011 Jean Louis Chave Hermitage- a mere baby but a powerful one, with a triple splash decant, the aromatics opened up with dark black fruit, crushed slate, savory herbs, wild flowers, spice box and smoke. The structure was massive with more savory tones of deep licorice, smoke, wild game and tar. This was an absolutely stunning bottle, but I was challenged for the exceptional and the third time was the charm with a bottle of the 1966 Morey Saint Denis Cuvee Confrerie des Chevalieres du Tastevin Cuvee Leroy. Wow…!! Perfectly preserved red and black cherries, dried plums and dusty spice. The aged flavors blossomed in the palate with dried petals, wild fennel, roasted mushrooms, dried compost and hints of soft leather, charred sage and vintage barn. The finish was long and haunting. This was a memorable bottle of wine that blew our minds.

Mondavi 11.2015

When you throw down an exceptional wine for the table, Simon always retaliates and we sure aren’t complaining! Simon came back with a 1978 Remoissenet Vosne Romanee Les Beaumonts that hit a home run! Not as expansive as the ’66 Leroy in the mid, but ultra sexy in a good ole dirty Burg kind of way. The fruit was more luscious with giving red fruit, mellowed dried spice and super silky tannins that easily swam around the mouth. The finish was extended with more earthy tones of dried cinnamon and nutmeg, rich earth, dried orange rind and tart red fruit. A beautiful finish to the night of stellar wines.

Tim Mondavi

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1982 Bordeaux and some Bubbles

By: AJ McClellan

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These two wines are absolutely stunning right now! WoW! 1996 Bollinger RD is creamy with great texture and a long finish of pears and peaches.
while the 1982 Certan is cracking! Bright red cherry over dry fall leaves with red liquorish and chewing tobacco.

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Taking a Journey with 1961 Petrus

By: AJ McClellan

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Like walking down a gravel walkway set with granite stepping stones. The path is strewn with red rose petals and outlined by vibrant violets. At the end of the path is a quaint picnic table set in the middle of a blooming cherry orchard. As the scent of the cherries fill your senses, tantalizing your palate, you notice the toasted cedar tray of chocolate dipped plums, stout raspberry kirsch, and blackberries on the table; inviting you to indulge in one of the most fantastic and complete flavor experiences you have ever had. You realize you are in heaven…

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Whites of Immortality

It’s been a quiet week but we’ve had some stellar, rare wines from all over the globe. So far these mind-blowing wines are on the top of my week’s favorites list with the 1989 Trimbach Clos Ste Hune Vendages Tardives Hors Choix as the cherry on top.  Such a rare and unique wine from Alsace, Clos Ste Hune is one of the world’s greatest dry white wines alone, but this special bottle was Vendages Tardives (late harvest) and a Hors Choix on top of that! In great years, Vendages Tardives are made in miniscule amounts and Hors Choix (‘super choice’) has only been made in one other year- 1959, so this extreme bottle was quite a treat- still bright and lively on the nose and the palate was near dry with notes of dried apricots, brown sugar and beautiful mineratily with layer after layer of wild yellow flowers and herbs with a hint of white truffle and toast.

1989 Clos Ste Hune

We also tried a perfectly aged 56 year old Chenin Blanc. That’s right- Chenin Blanc folks! 1959 Clovis Lefevre Vouvray Grande Annee. There was so much going on in this dynamic white wine. It developed beautifully complex tones as it rested in the glass! Dried yellow flowers, sweet brioche, sharp cheese, raw matsutake and toasted nuts with wild sweet tangerine and kumquat preserves. It was also a little briny with subtle hints of honey and eucalyptus in the ridiculously long and altogether captivating finish.

1959 Lefevre Vouvray Grande Annee

1991 Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris- From the oldest Pinot Gris clones in the United States, originally planted by David Lett in Dundee, Oregon in the ‘60s, this 24 year old Pinot Gris is one of the most amazing white wines we have been loving lately here at Graileys. It shows an intense mix of tropical and orchard fruit with roasted nuts and hints of dried citrus peel with an acidity that keeps you going back for more.

 

2012 Roulot Meursault Clos des Boucheres 1er Cru Monopole- What a dream bottle! It holds a push and pull of power and grace with brilliant notes of golden apple, ripe pear, almost bitter orange with layers of herbs, wild fern and hazelnut. The minerality is so clean, yet striking and simply beautiful. There is a true refinement and elegance in this bottle that is unlike any other.

2008 Bionic Frog

I can’t leave the red wines hanging. There were 2 red bottles from the New World that slapped me on the palate with flavors that I just can’t forget. First was the 2008 Bionic Frog Syrah from Walla Walla- talk about an oxymoron in a single bottle of wine! Rustic and wild with rich fat, deep char, smoke, licorice and black and blue fruits- this wine is dirty… but good dirty… Deep graphite with layers of salty black olives, savory meat, a plethora of wild herb de Provence and rich spice, the nose and the palate was very reminiscent of a powerhouse from Northern Rhone, but there was rich sweet fruit and power that only the New World possesses. A very rare and smoking bottle of wine indeed. We also tried 2012 Amuse Bouche which was full bodied to the max with rich dark fruit with an underlying sense of savory herbs. This wine is dark and slutty, but in a sophisticated way.

2012 Amuse Bouche

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A Fun Night with Tom Futo and His Napa Stunners

Futo Dinner

 

Last Friday we had another in a long, long line of amazing wine dinners when we hosted Tom Futo from Oakville’s Futo Winery for a memorable night of wine, food and good friends! Ivan the Fiver has long sang the praises of this great winery and I have had the distinct pleasure of drinking through almost every vintage of this great wine! We had a nice group of California Cab lovers together to taste through 5 great wines from Futo. Mark Aubert was the founding winemaker at Futo so we used his Chardonnay for the dinner as well. These were the wines for night:

2013 Aubert Chardonnay Hyde & Sons Vineyard

2011 Futo O.V.

2012 Futo OV|SL

2006 Futo Oakville Estate Red

2011 Futo Oakville Estate Red

2012 Futo Oakville Estate Red

 

Futo is located in the southwestern Oakville bench right off of the Oakville Grade. You could not paint a more perfectly manicured vineyard or winery! The winery to the North is Harlan. To the East is Martha’s Vineyard. Sandwiched between those in Vine Hill Ranch-the source of Bond’s Vecina. Heck, above it further up the mountain is Harlan’s new Promentory label and the Tusk Estate. If I could one part of Napa that is might favorite to drink from-this is probably it. The 2013 Aubert was righteous and layered with tropical fruit, lemon bar, cream, toasted bread and nice oak spice. The 2011 Futo OV was spectacular and showed it Cab Franc aromatic complexity in spades! Just like the Estate 2011, this wine was more Bordelais in style with more tannic structure than the 2012s. The OV was drinking great today and was the best deal on the table with notes of espresso, mocha, red plums, sweet spices, licorice and rose petals. It will develop even more over the next few years. The 2012 Futo OV|SL basically tastes like young Mouton. It is so smooth, complex, sweet and savory and loaded with notes of red currant, cassis, pencil lead, gravel, tobacco, cinnamon, and cloves. It drank wonderfully the entire night! Now onto the big boy Futos! The 2006 Futo was drinking in a perfect place right now with ripe red and black fruit, some secondary damp earth, leather and black licorice flavors. The tannins were perfectly ripe and the wine was a delight to drink! The 2011 Futo tastes like great St Estephe with layer upon layer of tannins, great structure, black currant, camphor, cassis, sweet tobacco, incense, and crushed mulberries. A wine to lay down for 10 years to truly let the wine evolve. The best wine made in Napa in 2011 and slightly cheaper than the 2012:) Stock Up! We finished with the 2012 Futo and this most closely resembled the stellar 2007 vintage for me. Forward and layered with ripe blueberries, mulberries, and blackberries with licorice, incense and vanillin in the background. I loved it but preferred the 2011 personally… I know I will be in the minority there though based on crowd participation:) It was a great night had by all and these Futo wines belong in the cellars of any self-proclaimed Cali Cab devotees out there. Bravo!

Futo Wines drank

 

We spilled out into the front room afterwards and had the following great wines:

NV Jacquesson Cuvee no. 737

2013 Aubert Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay

2011 Kosta Browne Russian River Pinot Noir

1995 Turley Petite Sirah Aida Vineyard

1985 Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Noir South Slope Reserve

1975 Mouton Rothschild

1988 Cos d’Estournel

1989 Cos d’Estournel

1989 Pichon Lalande

2012 Chapoutier La Morderee Cote Rotie

2009 Favia Cerro Sur

2009 Jones Family Cabernet Sauvignon

1998 Colgin Herb Lamb Cab

2007 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino

2011 Morlet Passionnement Cab

 

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Daily Winners at Graileys

This week at Graileys, we have opened and tasted too many good bottles to not give them solid recognition. Each day had its own star so this blog is going to be a little different…

2000 Billecart Salmon Nicolas Francois

Monday: 2000 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart Brut Champagne

A riveting Champagne! Flavors were insanely defined with bright orchard fruit and a touch of preserved sweet lemon skin along with a hint of white cherry pith, toasted hazelnut and soft brioche. The minerality is beautifully clean and pure.

2012 E16 Bowland Ranch, Bennett Valley

Tuesday: 2012 E16 ‘Bowland Ranch’ Bennett Valley Pinot Noir

This is a compelling cool-climate Pinot Noir from Bennett Valley. Brilliant red and black cherry within this killer smokey layer with exotic spice, great minerality, beautifully balanced acidity and a lengthy smokey finish- this is the perfect bottle of Pinot Noir that will go great with just about any meal.

1986 haut brion

Wednesday: 1986 Chateau Haut Brion

No vintage can stop the great and mighty Haut Brion! This beauty was absolutely breathtaking! The fruit was so alive with dark, dried berries that were very seductive in the glass. Ripples of dried herbs, deep forest floor and old leather seamlessly weave in and out of the palate with waves of tobacco, spice box and crushed granite. The finish just goes on and on and on. This was my final sip of the night, before we turned out the lights.

2012 vine hill ranch

Thursday: 2012 Vine Hill Ranch Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

I think I just found my new Napa jam! Don’t get me wrong, I’m still in love with Tusk, Futo and Entre Nous, but Vine Hill Ranch is my new Cabernet crush that I can’t stop thinking about! We tried this bottle last night next to some of my other favorites from California and Bordeaux and VHR was the bottle we all kept going back to! Masculine in structure, this Cabernet is commanding in the glass with near-brooding black fruit, smoke, crushed slate and wild spice. Layers of star anise, blackberry liquor and fresh vanilla beans are abundant in this deliciously dense Cab. The texture was also impressive as every part of the mouth is coated with bold flavors and sweet tannins that lead to a long finish that will have you reminiscing about your first glass.

 

Next up for tonight: Tom Futo of Futo Wines…. I’ve been looking forward to this all month!

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Graileys Annual Dom Perigon Dinner – Attack of the Great Rose!

This last week at Graileys we had one of our favorite events every year-the Annual Dom Perignon Dinner with our good friends from Moet Hennessy with some of the rarest special bottles the Dom Perignon producers! We had a memorable four course dinner paired with the current releases from Dom Perignon as well as the newest releases of P2 Brut and Rose and a unicorn MAGNUM of P3 Rose!!! The dining table was beautiful as were all in attendance. To say that we had ourselves a Champagne Campaign at Graileys would be a understatement of epic proportions! A group of 26 drank about 40 bottles of Champagne:)

Dom P DInner 2015 1

 The caterer made a meal to remember and the Burgundy stems were perfect for the richness and amazing aromatics of the Dom Perignon Roses

Dom P Dinner 2015 2

The national Brand Ambassador from DOm Perignon walked us through the wines and the philosophy behind the extended aging P2 and P3 wines.

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Glad I didn’t have to wash all of the glasses! Our valued members were riveted by the amazing lineup of bubbles!

Dom P Dinner 2015 4DOm P Dinner 2015 3The service was impeccable as you might imagine;)

The line-up of wines included:

2005 Dom Perignon Brut

2004 Dom Perignon Rose

1998 Dom Perignon P2 Brut

1995 Dom Perignon P2 Rose

1988 Dom Perignon P3 Rose from Magnum!!

The 2005 Dom Perignon was outstanding in a toasty, smoky, mineral driven style that reminded me of the 2003 vintage. The vintage was extremely short and this will be a relatively difficult wine to find in a few months in case you need to keep verticals going. It was awesome and killed with the duck tacos. The 2004 Dom Perignon Rose was fantastic, forward, super aromatic, creamy and loaded with strawberries, orange zest, and Bing cherries. Less dense than the 2002 but exceptionally delicious and hard not to slurp down! The 1998 Dom Perignon P2 Brut was fantastic as always and has definitely benefited from time in a bottle. Dried and glazed apricot, nectarine, peach, exotic spices, buttered toast, honey, graphite, salt, citrus blossoms and chalk oozed out of the classy wine. The P2 wines started in 1998 for the Brut and 1995 for the Rose. They are basically the second release of a great vintage with the reserve stocks that get extended agings on the lees to reach the second drinking life of Dom Perignon. They replaced what used to be called Oenotheque. Boy how I love these wines! The 1995 Dom Perignon P2 Rose was even more flamboyantly rich, round, layered and complex than the 2004 Rose. The 1995 vintage is a powerful wine that unfolds slowly and this P2 Rose bottling will drink exceptionally well for 30 more years in my opinion. This was my personal favorite wine of the night and a bottle I would buy in volume if I could afford it:) We finished with an extremely rare MAGNUM of the 1988 Dom Perignon P3 Rose. It was mature, yet combined freshness with cinnamon, cherry, forest and mushroom flavors and a well-integrated, elegant structure and supple texture. It has a lovely lingering aftertaste of baking bread and mushroom. The finish on this wine went on for a few minutes and we were told only 12 of these bottles even came into the United States!  What a treat to be able to share these great Champagnes with a valued and much cherished members! It was a night to remember and one that will not soon be forgotten for all of those who had the pleasure to attend.

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Bordeaux’s Holy Grail

My tongue has tasted a glimpse of Bordeaux euphoria… Last Friday, some of our best wine collectors and true Bordeaux devotees held their own Bordeaux blind tasting here at Graileys with the theme: 1982. BOOM!!! I was lucky enough to be in on this tasting of Bordeaux’s holy grail…  Keep in mind, each bottle were singular stunners, but when you have a flight of the A Team up against each other there has to be a winner and blinding them is the only way…

These are my impressions at the end of the tasting. Starting with the least awarded points… Once again, I refuse to call any of these bottles losers as they were all outrageously glorious.

 

1983 Ausone – My favorite of the lineup and I think my colleagues thoroughly enjoyed this Ausone as well.  The aromatics were the lightest from the lineup but still rich with campfire, boysenberry, forest floor, and white pepper. The palate was pure beauty with lively, luscious mouth feel loaded with deep flavors or dried red fruit, basil, eucalyptus and earth. To put the cherry on top of this exquisite Bordeaux, the finish was loaded with minerals and herbs and just kept on going with all the fine flavors of old Bordeaux. Perhaps the elegance of the wine was overcome by the power of the others, but to me, this was a true definition of all things sexy in old Bordeaux.

 

1982 Margaux- Bright red raspberry on the nose with hay, violets, rose and crushed granite. The tannins were still holding on but with softer shoulders. From age, the freshness of fruit has dwindled and its dark earthy notes shone through with complex flavors of dried clay, mushrooms and wild flowers. The finish appeared to be not as lengthy, but after a second breath, dried leaves, leather and earth swooshed back for final haunt.

 

1982 Gruaud Larose- This wine came in 2nd place for a great reason. The nose was nearly identical to the winning wine and from past Gruaud showings, my colleagues and our Bordeaux disciples have always noticed its consistent mimicking ways to Graileys most beloved Super Second. This is the second time I have had this wine and it was as impressive as my first tasting of ’82 Gruaud. Powerful, meaty, smoky and dark with black pepper, charcoal and dense herbs. This wine definitely had the most spice as AJ noted spicebox and mesquite, but I picked up more dried black tea, dried lilacs and bark within the beautifully preserved black currants. Needless to say, this is one complex beast. On the nose, it was very reminiscent of Pichon Lalande… a very interesting thought indeed, but nothing can steer our group’s professional Bordeaux palates…

 

1982 Pichon Lalande – In the words of the Fox’s: “Winner Winner Chicken Dinner”. This wine showed the most power, with the most dense flavors in the lineup. The longevity of the ’82 Pichon Lalande is insane! The fruit was still showing beautifully with dense blackberry, black cherry and currant. Leather, mossy earth, wild herbs and charred bell peppers were seamless in the mid-palate while dried red flowers and sweet fruit gave the wine a persistent lift. This unicorn Bordeaux is breathtaking to the core.

82 Bordeaux

Not from the tasting, but must be noted: 1970 Cheval Blanc. Double BOOM!!  Still very much alive and aromatic and the palate was the perfect play of dried ripe fruit and insane elements of earth, herbs and spice. The evolution is just beautiful. The fruit was still present with shriveled strawberries, raspberry and red currants. The herbs and earth were alive with rich soil and everything that comes along with it: truffles, dried herbs, old leather, dense spice and dried but rich tobacco. The texture was silky to the tee and the finish was lengthy and almost as full and rich as the mid. The wine was beautifully balanced, pure elegance in a glass.  I wish I could have experienced these rare beauties in their youth to appreciate the full experience of its evolution but I am one lucky sommelier to get a chance to experience them now after 30 most awaiting years. My office might not be in a high-rise and it definitely has no windows, but wow; this is a dream office to walk into everyday.

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85 Leroy Gevrey Chambertin 1er and 1990 Lafite… A great Friday does make!

By: AJ McClellan

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The Leroy is earth reincarnate. Wet soil, compost, crushed brown leaves, and mushroom patch. There are notes of dry cherry, prunes, and spice box. After about 2 hours in the glass the wine blew off a little funk and got some more fruit, but not much. The plate shows cinnamon, sour cherry, black truffles, and black tea. The longer the wine sits in the the more it evolves. And it sure is tasty!

The 1990 Lafite was stunning out of the bottle showing black cherry, plum, and black raspberry. There is plenty of earth on the nose with granite and clean forest floor. With some time in the glass the wine only grew in stature, gaining weight and complexity. The fruit is still dark but with a hint of red cherry peeking out around the edges, like the corona of a eclipse. There are also notes of cassis, vanilla bean, soft leather, and fresh roses. The tannins are incredibly finesseful and delicate, giving the wine the impression of a ballerina gliding across your palate.

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