With the next set of Court of Master Sommelier examinations coming our way and in preparation for said examinations, our very own Advanced Sommelier, Master Sommelier candidate, and Texas’ Best Somm of 2012 Ryan Tedder has created a series of educational tastings for our members, starting with the Great Wines of Northern Italy, going over the best wines of Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, Friuli, Alto Adige, and Valtellina.
Italy is a beast to cover when studying its regions as each region has separate laws, their own “indigenous” grape varietal, and a shit load of pride. Broken down into four flights, Ryan engagingly and effortlessly went through wines that best represented their respective region. For those who could not join us, follow along our notes of the flights below as we encourage you to try the wines of Northern Italy. *Please be advised: Should you choose to read further, there are a lot of long Italian words in your near future. Approach each syllable with your best Italian accent and you should do well.*
Flight #1: The Battle of the Bubbles:
Wine 1- NV Mionetto Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG- Made from the native Glera grape in the heart of the Veneto, Prosecco is typically Non-Vintage and is created in a style that emphasizes its freshness. You will find this Prosecco with lively aromatics of juicy fruit medley, fresh stonefruits of white peach and ripe apricot with crisp bubbles that last just for that one satisfactory second.
Wine 2- NV Bellavista Brut Cuvee Franciacorta DOCG- Created in the traditional Champagne method, with a blend of the three, classic Champagne grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Italian for Pinot Noir) and Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc as you can imagine), Franciacorta is a much more serious Italian sparkling wine, showing more depth, weight, and complexities than the simple Prosecco. A personal favorite, the Bellavista is Franciacorta’s leading producer of Metodo Classico wines.
Flight #2: White Wines of Character:
Wine 1- 2012 La Scolca Gavi Black Label, Gavi di Gavi DOCG- Made solely from the Cortese grape of the southeastern side of Piedmont, this white wine sees no oak at all, making it light, crisp and great for easy quaffing in the heat of Texas’ summer.
Wine 2- 2012 Ermes Pavese, Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle DOC- Valle d’Aosta may be Italy’s smallest winemaking region, but the Valle d’Aosta was well represented in this tasting with this stimulating white wine from some of the highest vineyard sites in Italy. Made from 100% from the juice of a grape called Prie Blanc, this white wine showed racy minerals, vivacity in orchard fruit, and stunning complexities in weight, texture, and length.
Wine 3- 2011 Jermann Vintage Tunina, Friuli IGT- A field blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, and Picolit, this last white wine was also mineral driven, with un-suspecting notes of celery salt, flint, and citrus that had us all going back for more. One of the favorites of the white wine flight.
Flight 3: Nebbiolo Three Ways:
Wine 1- 2006 Ar.Pe.Pe. Sasella Riserva Stella Retica, Valtellina Superiore DOCG- (say that 5 times real fast). The lightest of the Nebbiolos in this flight, this Chiavennasca (aka. Nebbiolo if you are from Valtellina) is from the best producer coming out of Valtellina. Very traditional in style, this Nebbiolo, excuse me- Chiavennasca is pure mountain fruit which the wine expresses in its more linear style with brighter red cherry, raspberry fruit and rocky minerality, while still showcasing classic Nebbiolo flavors of rose petals, tar, leather, and layers of spice.
Wine 2- 2011 Angelo Gaja Barbaresco DOCG- Ryan opened this beast first thing in the morning. The Godfather of Piedmont, Gaja is a classic that has no rival. From 14 crus throughout Barbaresco, this Nebbiolo is Gaja’s flagship wine intended for earlier consumption with the concentration and complexity to age. A favorite by most, this Nebbiolo was the most aromatic, boasting rich florals and fruit on the nose with deep spices, wild raspberry and hints of orange zest in the palate. After a near seven hour decant, this wine was ready to roll and offered its fullest potential for its youth.
Wine 3- 2010 Brovia Garblet Sue Cru, Barolo DOCG- Also from south-central Piedmont, but to the west of Barbaresco lies the King of Nebbiolo and probably of all red wines. This classic Barolo comes from the vineyards of Castiglione where the soils are a complimentary mixture of Tortonian calcareous marl and Helvatian Sandstone… what does this all mean…?… it means this is a killer Barolo that is sexy and aromatic, from the Tortonian marl; while holding stronger tannins, depth, and great structure- from the Helvatian sandstone.
Flight #4: The Best of the Rest:
Wine 1- 2011 Luigi Einaudi Vigna Tecc, Dogliani Superiore DOCG- 100% Dolcetto, this is a specialty of Einaudi that is perfect for cured meats, gamey meats, and even great pizzas. This ‘little sweet one’ is just that, a great everyday wine made for casual drinking.
Wine 2- 2007 Dal Forno Romano, “Monte Lodeletta” Valpolicella Superiore DOC- You cannot have a northern Italian tasting without trying a wine from the Veneto. Dal Forno is the regions’ best when it comes to Amarone and Valpolicella. A blend of majority Corvina, Rondinella, with a touch of Croatina and old school Oseleta, this bottle offers a modern twist with brooding dark black fruits, dried blackberry, black plums and figs, layers of smoke, licorice, and deep spice.
Wine 3- 2003 Bressan “Ego”, Venezia-Giulia IGT- One of the favorite wines of the night, the 2003 ‘Ego’ is a blend of Schiopettino and Cabernet Franc from late harvest grapes at extremely low yields in Venezia-Giulia, just south of Collio. Loaded with cherry fruit, leather, earth, and plenty of sweet cedar, this powerful blend packed a great punch of dynamic flavors and full-bodied, rich, yet perfectly balanced with vivacious acidity that cut through the omnipotent fruit.