By: Philip Roberts
Some nice little wines last night. A small group of clients, distributors and importers – all with very good palates. All wines were served blind as we really enjoy the challenge of it.
We started the evening off with a 1970 Mouton served blind (pop and pour). I got cardboard and mustiness to begin with, and thought it was corked. There was some fruit behind it though muted. Unfortunately, at least for me it never got rid of that mustiness throughout the evening. A shame.
97 Blaine Gagnard Criots Batard Montrachet (pop and pour) – I served this blind to everyone as I wanted to check in on this bottle for a client. As a preface I have never had this producer but I found the wine to be very well made, still lively and overall very very tasty. Guesses around the table ranged from late 90’s early 00’s Muersault or Batard. It didnt have the round creaminess I usually associate with Muersault, but had more focus and lemony characteristics that I usually get out of Batard. A really enjoyable wine that is drinking well now.
97 Leroy Corton Charlegmagne (pop and pour) – I was a little stumped at first as I have had this wine before on several occasions but this bottle was a little fuller and more round than the last I had tried. I guessed late 90s Muersault. Initally this was a little soft but I followed it over the course of almost 2 hours and by the last sip it was a truly gorgeous wine, totally blossoming out of its shell. Layers of complexity, minerality and flavors. Simply delicious stuff.
91 Armand Rousseau Les Cazetiers – served blind (pop and pour) there were lots of guesses that this was late 90s or even 02 burgundy, with the consensus being late 90s. I called it as a 91 though I had no idea whether it was Gevrey or not. This we knew would only get better after being in the glass for a while and rightly so. Bing cherry and black tea dominated the taste profile for me and it was still very silky. i usually associate Gevrey as having a little bigger frame and a little more animale but I think the age has mellowed this. Quite lovely.
98 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot – served non blind pop and pour – OMFG. I drank an 02 DRC Richebourg recently and this was in that category. A killer nose of rose petals, violets and strawberries. So silky and elegant, readily approachable even on a pop and pour. This was just a stunner with truffle and asian five spice just so delicately in balance. one of the best young burgundies I have had this year.
97 Kistler Sonoma Coast Pinot – served blind pop and pour – ok, so we had some pretty decent palates around the room and with one exception called this CdP. this – to me – did not even remotely resemble a SC Pinot. yes it was massive but it had so much syrah and grenache characteristics that we were completely fooled. I didn’t like it at all.