We had a wonderful visit from winemaker extraordinaire, Helene Garcin-Leveque, who strutted into Graileys yesterday afternoon in her cool, red pants with three of her family’s Bordeaux properties in her wine bag to taste us with.
Helene and her family own four Chateaux in Bordeaux: Clos l’Eglise in Pomerol (which sits next to l’Eglise Clinet), Château Haut-Bergey in Pessac-Leognan, Château Branon in Pessac Leognan, and Château Barde-Haut in St-Emilion.
First in the line up were the 2003 and 2004 Haut-Bergey. In my opinion, the 2004 ran circles around the 2003 bottling; the 2004 showed great freshness, a silky texture, and an elegant structure that made it a pleasure to drink now. Medium-bodied. Slightly smoky, blackberry, and espresso were evident on the nose and palate. The 2003, on the other hand, had a roasted quality to the fruit that is more consistent with the vintage’s hot growing conditions. The wine was also showing some savory notes of undergrowth and wet earth.
Next in the glass was the 2003 Barde Haut that was drinking phenomenally well. A background of espresso beans layered with ripe plums, black raspberries, black cherries on the nose and palate. In the mouth, it was round with ripe and supple tannins, and a great thread of acidity that kept the wine vibrant and fresh. The 2005 Barde Haut showed a markedly more powerful and concentrated structure. Chunkier tannins with bold cassis, blackberries, licorice and smoke flavors that were more intense on the nose than the palate. In the mouth, it seemed more tightly wound showing grippy tannins on the finish and a firmer structure. But everything is there and structurally, very well balanced. I think this simply needs time in bottle to polish those tannins and unleash its inner beauty.
Helene talked enthusiastically about the significant improvements that have been done to the facilities at Barde Haut. The project was completed in 2012 and is aimed at practicing more eco-friendly winemaking. She was completely animated when talking about the winery’s ‘green roof’ with solar panels and how they recycle rainwater.
Next on the table were the Clos L’Eglise bottles. This Pomerol property became part of the Garcin family portfolio in 1997. The 2006 Clos L’Eglise was a beautiful and complex wine. Showing some savory quality reminiscent of truffle and undergrowth, a whiff of aromatic herbs, plums and black cherries, dried lavender. The tannins were velvety and well-integrated, very round and supple in the mouth. Persistent, plum-tinged finish. The 2003 Clos L’Eglise showed plenty of upfront fruit (plums, blackberries), a touch of coffee, and toasty vanillin notes. Fleshy and opulent.