Earlier this week I took over the entire core of Casa Rubia, Dallas’ hottest restaurant for Iberian cuisine, for a spectacular tasting of white and red wines of Northern Spain from the Atlantic coast to the Mediterranean. I started with the signature white and light red wines of Green Spain, moved eastward into the best subregions of Castille y Leon and finished the dinner strong with the powerful, iconic red wines from the oldest vines of Catalunya. Check out my tasting notes below and join me vicariously for a tasting of the finest of Northern Spain from one coast to the next!
2013 A. Coroa Godello, Valdeorras- Bright and crisp, refreshing white wine from Valdeorras’ ancient grape Godello. Angel Lopez is one of the few winemakers dedicating his life to bring revive and better the wines of his region. This Godello is carefully selected from the best parcels with high elevation and the best soils and the wine expresses the hard work and love that goes into the vineyards. A perfect, refreshing white wine for the summer or as an aperitif, it has enough crispness and refreshing qualities for Sauvignon Blanc lovers and great texture and weight for those who love Chardonnay. A true must have to beat the heat!
2007 Fillaboa Finca Monte Alba Albarino, Rias Baixas- Not your typical light Albarino, the Finca Monte Alba is not only one of the few single vineyard Albarino’s of Rias Baixas but also boasts from the steepest slopes and highest elevation of Rias Baixas. This is one serious Albarino with deep notes of dried lemon peel, wild yellow field flowers, preserved pear and fresh melon. There were more savory, spicy and mineral notes that gave this white wine a beautiful complexity not often found in youthful Albarino.
2011 Luis Rodriguez Torno Dos Pasas Tinoto, Ribiero- A fantastic lively red for the summer and a great Pinot Noir Alternative! Luis Rodriguez is highlighting his family’s vineyards with this uber elegant red blend. Gorgeous red berries just popped from the glass with notes of rose, cinnamon and crushed stones. The seductive spices and supple texture makes this Spanish gem too easy to drink. It was perfect with the charcuterie, a local pairing, but I think it rocked with our octopus and clams!
2013 Descendientes de Jose Palacios Corullon, Bierzo- From the god-like mastermind Alvaro Palacios of Priorat, the Descendientes de J. Palacios is his Bierzo project that should not be missed! From 100% Mencia of old vines, this is a medium bodied red that is packed to the max with rich, exotic flavors. Insane amounts of red and black spice compliment the notes of spicy cured meat while juicy red and black berries and wild ripe herbs sing throughout the palate. The earth is deeper than the Ribeiro, but still fresh and clean. The texture is round, the flavors are compelling and the finish lingers with great breath.
2010 Vega Sicilia Valbuena, Ribera del Duero- The wine of the night- the 2010 Valbuena stole the show! Wow!! Beautiful and well composed with great structure, this is one of the most impressive Valbuena’s I have experienced yet! Red cherry, black cherry, sweet black plums and crushed blackberries are all ripe and explosive. Sweet leather, dense forest floor, iron, wild herbs, fresh vanilla beans, warm caramel, ripe sage, cardamon, I can go on and on! These great flavors filled the palate and lead into an extremely long finish. From this smoking vintage, this is a legend that should be stocked in every red wine lover’s cellar, to enjoy it’s youthful beauty now and to appreciate it’s full glory decades later.
2004 Capafons Osso Mas de Masos, Priorat- Going into the Mediterranean coast, I had a side by side of two Priorats from the epic 2004 vintage, both of 100+ year old Grenache and Carinena vines and this Priorat showed the most signature garrigue characteristics from the two Priorats in the lineup. From the sight to the nose and palate, everything was black and purple in the glass: dried crushed granite, espresso grinds, black olives, rosemary, violets, black pepper and dried plums and blackberries.
2004 Vall Llach Vall Llach, Priorat- My favorite of the Priorats, this is Vall Llach’s flagship wine from the estates oldest Carinena vines, if not all of Priorat and it is sexy sexy.. The wine is dark, deep and densely concentrated. The fruit is rich and beautifully expressive with multidimensional flavors from the Carinena, with equally captivating characteristics from the Cabernet and Merlot that is in the blend. Scorched earth, blackberries, black plums, dark spice, smoked meat, charcoal, and dark chocolate drives the palate. Even though it has amazing power and richness, there is a brilliant balance to this full bodied red with seductive velvety texture and a haunting finish.
This hunk of meat was perfect with the Valbuena and really blew up the Vall Llach and Espectacle de Montsant!!
2013 Espectacle del Montsant- I saved the most powerful for last! We finished this epic Northern Spain wine trip with a glass of 130 year old vine Grenache from a single vineyard in high and steep slopes of Montsant! Made by the rockstar of Priorat and true spearheading terroir-ist of the region, Rene Barbier, this newest release of Espectacle del Montsant is insane!! There is power and richness like no other yet it is brilliantly lively and extremely pure in the palate! I can’t honestly say that I know what molten lava tastes like, but if I had to imagine that flavor experience, it is fully in this glass! Dense black fruit and crushed granite fight for attention while wild spices and sweet ripe herbs dance around it. The wine completely takes over the palate in a mouthcoating sensation and the texture and structure is just as powerful as its flavors. The finish… what finish…. you mean I’m not still drinking the wine…?!
All of these wines are available for purchase. Let me know if I can grab any of these beauties to recreate this flight for you! kim@graileys.com
The Gems and Jewels of Northern Spain
2013 A. Coroa Godello, Valdeorras- $24.95/btl
2007 Fillaboa Finca Monte Alba Albarino, Rias Baixas- $25.99/btl
2011 Luis Rodriguez Torno Dos Pasas Tinoto, Ribeiro- $35/btl
2013 Descendientes de J. Palacios Corullon, Bierzo- $54.95/btl
2010 Vega Sicilia Valbuena, Ribera del Duero- $154.95/btl
2004 Vall Llach Vall Llach, Priorat- $95.95/btl
2013 Espectacle del Montsant, Montsant- $139.95/btl
Great times were had by all! Many thanks to Casa Rubia for hosting the tasting and many more thanks for those who joined us for this event!