Almost three years ago, a few members of Graileys made a pilgrim to –arguably- the wine world’s capital of Bordeaux. Naturally, the whole trip was jam-packed with killer tastings including a visit to Chateau Latour. So on their last day, a Saturday, with Chateau Gillette on the calendar, a few decided to skip the tasting and troll around St-Emilion for other non-wine endeavors. And boy, did they miss out!
Xavier Gonet and Julie Gonet-Medeville, the current generation of Medevilles running the domaine, welcomed the Graileys group graciously. By the end of the tasting, there was a line-up of 20 wines on the table including older vintages of Chateau Gilette Sauternes, Gonet-Medeville Champagnes, Gonet-Medeville Coteaux Champenois ‘Ambonnay’ and Chateau Eyrins from Margaux. The Gonet-Medeville family operation is unique in the wine world given the range of their portfolio across three prime growing regions. The group was so blown away by the experience that Simon made Xavier and Julie commit to stopping by Graileys when they make their way to Dallas.
Well, last Tuesday, we hosted Xavier Gonet at Graileys on his first ever visit to Texas. Needless to say, we rolled out the proverbial red carpet for him and made sure that virtually everyone in the Bordeaux trip made it to the wine dinner. We tasted nine of Xavier and Julie’s wines and were impressed by the range of this couple’s. Xavier is clearly passionate about his craft and yet he, according to him, is surprised that people are excited about his wines.
The first flight consisted of the Gonet-Medeville Champagne. The vineyards for this small Champagne House came from Xavier’s shares of his family’s holdings in Mesnil-sur-Oger. He and Julie started farming this 8-hectare estate in 2000. A grower Champagne, Gonet-Medeville is turning out some very well-priced and distinctive bubbles.
The NV Gonet-Medeville Tradition, a blend of 60% Chardonnay from Bisseul and Oger, 30% Pinot Noir from Bisseul and 10% Pinot Meunier from Mareuil-sur-Ay, was poured first. This was very dry, medium bodied marked by lime and green apple notes on the nose. The palate was broader than the nose initially suggested with deeper flavors of yeast, biscuit and baked dough adding richness. Great definition, soft and delicate mousse, good length.
The NV Gonet Medeville Blanc de Noirs from 100% Pinot Noir from Bisseul was next in the line-up. This was more generous, fuller-bodied with a round and broad mouthfeel. Pronounced brioche and baked pastry with notes of mushrooms, toast and raspberries. Creamier mousse. Chalky, flinty finish.
The NV Gonet-Medeville Rose was very dry and focused with spiced raspberries, red cherries, floral and a hint of minerality. Medium-bodied, lively acidity with zingy red fruits on the finish. A blend of 60% Chardonnay from Mesnil-sur-Oger, 33% Pinot Noir from Bisseul and 7% red wine from Ambonnay.
The 2010 Respide-Medeville Graves Blanc was tasted next. This was refreshing and easy drinking… think patio wine to beat Texas’ summer heat! Notes of sweet hay, green apple, lime, grapefruit and spice. Light-bodied, dry and refreshing. The peach notes from Semillon showed in the mid-palate, balancing the wine’s vivid acidity. A blend of 50% Semillon, 48% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle.
The next flight consisted of the family’s reds from Bordeaux. First poured was the 2010 Domaine des Justice Superieur which was juicy and succulent with blackberries, plums and smoky undertones. This is certainly meant for early consumption and focused on ripe fruit and supple, smooth tannins.
The 2010 Cru Monplaisir is a 9-ha property planted to 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc just outside of the Margaux appellation. The wine showed balance with firmer tannins, concentrated fruit and beautiful aromatics. Next to Justices, this had more structure, flesh and grip on the palate. Plums, black raspberries, black cherries with a toasty cedar undertone.
The 2010 Chateau Eyrins, the most recent addition to the family’s portfolio, was tasted next. Xavier and Julie had the opportunity to purchase this 2.9-hectare property in the heart of Margaux in 2009. The vineyard is triangular in shape and is surrounded by Chateau Margaux’s vines on two sides. This was medium-bodied, aromatic and elegant with blackcurrant, spice, plums and cedar. Harmonious on the palate with refined and well-integrated tannins and vivid acidity. A very pretty wine.
The next flight consisted of some beautifully made and decadent Sauternes, a fitting culmination to a phenomenal evening of great people, interesting conversations and fantastic wines.
First on the flight was the 2006 Chateau Les Justices Sauternes which showed a pronounced floral, dried apricot, honeyed pear and orange marmalade on the nose that carried on to the rich and luscious palate. Great balance between the wine’s unctuous texture and bright acidity. The wine is a blend of 85% Semillon,
The 1989 Chateau Gilette Sauternes was on a totally different category with impressive mouthfeel and volume on the palate perfectly balanced by deep, concentrated fruit, honeysuckle, orange blossoms, grilled hazelnuts and a touch of musky note. Great complexity and length.
The 1981 Chateau Gilette Sauternes, I have to say, was my favorite. There was an energy to the 1981 that made the 1989 seem relatively cloying. More floral and candied fruit (quince, pear, apricot) than honeyed with a more pronounced whiff of musky, smoky nuance that added complexity. The brilliant acidity kept the wine’s long finish fresh.
Julie Gonet-Medeville is the talented winemaker now continuing the family’s history in Sauternes. Gilette’s Sauternes is unique in that the wine is aged for 20 years in concrete vats before they are released. This reductive vinification technique eschews oxygen contact thus encouraging slow maturation and allowing the wine to keep its fruity freshness while developing a more complex aromatic profile. Chateau Gilette is a 4.5 hectare estate and was under the 10-hectare requirement to even be considered for the famous 1855 classification. The quality of Chateau Gilette is well-recognized, however, as it is virtually on the wine list of every 3 Star Michelin restaurant in France and has been on Troigrois’ by-the-glass program consistently for last 40 years.