Graileys has been abuzz with great wines this past week and Friday was very much on theme. We all thought we were off to an enviably good start as a bottle of 1986 Margaux made its way down the table. But lo and behold, this particular bottle was flawed showing excessively oxidized characteristics – raisiny, jammy fruit with hints of hazelnuts– with forest floor and underbrush. In the mouth, it showed some richness in the middle but was short on the finish. Very one-dimensional; the flavors were driven by the raisiny fruit. The only Margaux-like elements in the wine seemed to be the soft and elegant tannins. But never one to be discouraged, Simon was quick to unearth and pop the cork on a 1986 Pape Clement which was really expressive on the nose showing a rich bouquet of scorched earth, barbecue smoke and undergrowth; consistent flavor profile on the palate with a nice core of blackberries and hints of licorice and earth. This is definitely a wine showing its maturity and in my opinion, drinking at peak.
I was nursing my glass of Pape Clement when Ryan handed me a glass of white. “A blinder,” he says. Pale and brilliant lemon yellow in appearance with a pale, green hue. Tropical aromas along with ripe peach, pear, and grapefruit jumped from the glass. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with a nice richness; high-acid and mineral-driven. The wine’s ripe tropical fruit and medium-plus alcohol led me to the New World. I thought with the structural elements (high acid, medium-plus alcohol,) and the fruit profile, perhaps Australian Riesling? This turned out to be a 2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner ‘Lamm’. Darn, where was the white pepper spice or the herbaceousness? And what’s up with the upfront tropical fruit? Tricky, tricky wine.
Next up was the utterly amazing and memorable 1995 Cos d’Estournel! I have had a few bottles of 95 Cos in the last 12 months and this wine has had a consistent showing. In my opinion, this is in a perfect drinking spot. Gorgeous nose of tobacco, cedar, roasted espresso beans balanced by a core of blackberries and black currants. Full bodied and richly structured, some tannins on the finish but very harmonious and well-integrated. Remarkable finish marked by sweet, black fruits and coffee beans. This is my kind of wine and I think that after 2.5 years at Graileys, most members are now on to me. They know when I’m having a wine moment because I nose the wine 10 times before I take the smallest of sips.
A bottle of 2009 Renato Ratti Barolo ‘Marcenasco’ was opened next and shared around the table. I love this old-school style of Barolo, the rusticity takes me to Italy every time. The wine opened with pronounced eucalyptus and menthol aromas. As I let the wine sit in the glass, notes of licorice, dusty cherry, tar and floral hints became evident as well. Impressive complexity in such a young wine. The flavors may be rustic but the tannins were quiet polished. Great freshness and persistent length.
Other wines in the line-up:
1999 Cristal
2010 Favia Cabernet Sauvignon
2011 Barbour Cabernet Sauvignon
2010 Robert Foley Merlot
2010 Guado al Tasso
2006 Turley Rattlesnake Ridge Petite Syrah