By: Simon Roberts
Dave and I hosted a tasting for our man in Hong Kong, Christopher Burgess and his friends at the exclusive Park View Estates. Park View is a mini city nestled in the mountainside overlooking the Harbor. I think the word for the night is going to be Decadence!
Our evening began with a tour of arguably one of the most amazing wine cellars in Hong Kong……..well maybe the whole world! Rows of Petrus dating back to the twenties was the highlight of the tour. In fact it was a whole room of Petrus! Along the way we wandered through the catacomb of wine stacked rooms. First growths, Domaine Romanee Conti, Quinterelli, you name it . This collection had everything you can imagine and in depth.
We were hosted by Patricio who walked us through the museum in the main room of the facilty. Dali, Renoir, Warhol and Picassos adorn the walls in what is a surreal surrounding. Ancient Chinese figures, masks and sculptures from previous dynasties alongside fifteen terminator robots and the original Star wars spaceship model hanging from the ceiling…..you get what I mean by surreal!
We have hosted some classic tastings at Graileys and this one is was way up there. We sat in a private room in the restaurant George. The evening had a great ebb and flow to it and the food pairings matched perfectly with the wines.
Flight one was the 1999 Marcassin Estate Chardonnay and it more than matched Leflaive’s 1996 Batard Montrachet. The Leflaive showed lazer-like focus and perfect balance. The Marcassin was a favorite around the table of mostly Francophiles. One up to the U.S.A. The pairing included Turbot with Caviar and Pinky Oysters which were delightful.
Flight two was the spectacular duo of 1989 Dujac Clos De La Roche versus 1999 Leroy N.S.G. Les Boudots. These wines were both clearly stallions. The balance of acid and fruit of the Leroy matched perfectly with Hokkaido Scallop .The Dujac was more muscular and paired with the Foie Gras Terrine superbly well. For me the Dujac edged this flight, dusty cherry with a smoky, earthy palate. The table had been truly Dujaced!
Flight three was a magnum of 1998 Harlan served next to 1994 Bryant Family Vineyards, this again was very close. This vintage of Harlan for me is better than the 97. It was drinking like a champ, with a milk chocolate texture and signature cedar and toasty oak flavors. The baby Chicken was a killer pairing as was the Beef Consomme but the showstopper was the 94 Bryant Family. This is just what wine should be all about to me, it stood head and shoulders around many of these great wines at the table. A complex, exotic balance of fruit with masterfully integrated flavors. A wow wine that drew all the comments around the table.
Flight four and we have a Jerobaum of 1995 Latour next to one of my personal favorites. The stunning, majestic 1982 Chateau Pichon Lalande! It is safe to say that the Pichon completely out shadowed the Latour which had slightly muted flavors for me. I think it needs more time and may be in a dumb stage but in this company it had no chance. 82 Pichon has to be the best Bordeaux value on the market bar none. It always delivers the goods and tonight it surpassed itself.
Flight five of this decadence drew gasps around the table, the two Guigals were drinking right on the money. The 2007 La Turque is still a baby but has everything in place. Pure vanilla bean and seamless texture tasted with the Rack of Lamb and mint jelly was the food and wine pairing of the night for me. The 95 La Londonne was a barbecue pit of flavors and smells, smokey bacon, big bold and meaty, it edged the 2007 just slightly but now we really are splitting hairs.
Flight six. Pecan Pie and Gorganzola Cheese with two vintages of Chateau Yquem. There is not much I can say about this flight and pairing. Nectar of the gods. The 69 was breathtaking and the 75 was a complete wine drinking experience in a bottle. This was a tasting for the ages . I think I like Hong Kong…..maybe too much!
