AJ McClellan
As usual, after the “official” tasting, our members were inspired by the wines they’d just had and dove into their cellars to see if they could produce a bottle to match up against the formidable Colgin wines.
1978 Taurino Notarpanaro Rosso Del Salento – First out the gate with loads of funk, earth, mold, and old dried out tobacco up front but with a secondary fruitiness that surprised me – dried prunes, sour cherries, and raspberries were still making a stand against the tide of earthiness that threatened to overwhelm the wine. The wine was drinking nicely right after it was opened but after some time in the glass the wine started to fall off, becoming disconjointed; all the aspects were there but they were not coming together properly. The wine had an interesting finish of gingerbread.
1970 La Conseillante – A fantastically traditional Bordeaux with baked raspberries, compost, forest floor, graphite, blood, iron, and cobblestone intermingling to create a fantastic example of what a mature wine should be. The wine retained a crisp acidity that surprised me and the tannins were soft and smooth but still holding ground. After some time in the glass the wine evolved to show beaten cherries, dry earth, and a touch of fennel.
2006 Domaine de Montille Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru – Fantastic Burgundy with a minerality of chalk, slate, and limestone. The fruit was that of tart raspberries and red currant. Then the secondary characteristics of allspice, cinnamon, and baking spices showed up to finish the balancing act that the wine walked with perfection. An excellent example of an elegant, sophisticated wine with a exceptional balance of fruit, earth, minerality, acidity, and tannins.
2007 Patrick Javillier Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru – Buttery popcorn smothered in caramel and put in the oven till it developed a slight char, then seasoned with vanilla extract and cooking spices and served over green coconut leaves and garnished with pear skins, orange blossoms, and wild white flowers… then smashed with a gigantic limestone brick. Another great Burgundy with the perfect balance of a tightrope walker and an unforgettable, long-lasting finish.
1975 Meyney – Burnt raspberries and black cherries with barnyard on the nose. The palate was full of sour cherry and cassis with a metallic finish. Great little wine with a surprising amount of life to it; when I first opened the wine I thought that it was done but after some time in the glass the wine opened up to divulge an elegance that I did not expect out of this vintage wine.