Chardonnay Thrilla at Graileys….

By: LA Perkel

Okay, this wasn’t just any Chardonnay, this was a wine quartet representing three Burgundy grand crus – the grandest forms of Chardonnay. It’s always a (rare) great opportunity to taste these wines side-by-side as only then can one get the nuance that comes with vineyard site, producer, and vintage variations.

The 2000 Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet was absolutely amazing – powerful and broad with  grilled hazelnuts, roasted pear, toast, graham cracker, and butter notes. The wine’s racy acidity was a great foil to its tremendous richness; seamless mouthfeel. The long finish was marked my great density.

 

The 1996 J-M Boillot Corton-Charlemagne was sadly suffering from premature oxidation (or premox) with sherry-like aromas of almonds and salty minerality. Apples, butterscotch and honey dominated the luscious, creamy, rich palate. I next got a sip of 2000 Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet ‘La Cabotte’. The nose showed complex flinty, citrus, and floral aromatics that led to a full-bodied yet delicate structure on the palate. Incredible depth, finesse, and balance. With air, the wine started showing golden delicious apples, quince, and more lemon notes. Elegance in a glass. I admit I’m becoming smitten with Bouchard lately. A taste of the 1998 Latour Corton-Charlemagne came my way next. Ripe fruitiness infused with vanilla marked this wine’s nose. The palate showed the same ripe character. Fleshy, rich and creamy textured. Lemon cream pie, anyone?

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