Last Saturday’s overflowing of exquisite Champagnes was one for the books. One of our members hosted a surprise birthday dinner for his wife who is a certified Champagne fanatic. First opened for the cocktail hour was the 2000 Billecart Salmon ‘Cuvee Francois Nicolas’ which was a great aperitif with its pure fruit marked by white peach, pear, apple and a touch of citrus. Very delicate mousse and silky texture. This was fresh and youthful and enjoyable to drink now. For the dinner, the chilled lobster salad with Meyer lemon pot de crème was paired with the 1988 Bollinger RD; RD or recently disgorged is Bollinger’s vintage Champagne that has undergone extended period of lees aging creating a richer and creamier mouthfeel as well as complex bready, nutty, and acacia-like characteristics. Bollinger’s style which is influenced by the heavy use of Pinot Noir, had a marked effect on this wine which showed a fuller body and creamy, rich texture balanced by a fine, focused acidity. This bubbly sported a biscuity, bread dough, and almond notes along with a persistent, yeasty finish. Next in the line up was the 1990 Bollinger Grande Annee whose notes of honey, yeast, key lime pie, and marzipan seemed more mature than the 1988 RD. The palate was mellow, round, with enough acidity to keep the wine vibrant. The honeyed and marzipan flavors lingered on this wine’s long finish. This wine paired really well with the roast Branzino served with sunchoke, caramelized cauliflower and grapes. We next poured the 1988 Dom Perignon which got the group oohing and aahing. And why not? This bottle had intense notes of toast, popcorn, butterscotch, acacia, and crème brulee. Silky-smooth, creamy and rich on the palate with really subtle fizz. This wine reminded me of an aged Montrachet with beautiful depth, long finish and complex flavors. Yes, a sip of heaven! This was paired with Mushroom stew with creamy polenta. For the Duck breast with pomegranate gastrique, we poured the 2006 Chandon de Briailles Corton Les Bressandes. The wine exploded with aromas of wild strawberry, raspberries, and cinnamon spice and led to a palate that was opulent and broad with a terrific acidity that kept its finish going. There is no denying that this wine is drinking magnificently now, but I think it has the balance and depth of flavors to improve with at least another decade of cellar age. To finish off the dinner, a magnificent cheese selection was served and we poured the 1996 Dom Perignon Oenotheque with it. This was youthful showing very pronounced acidity as well brioche notes and there was no mistaking Dom’s hallmark smoothness and rich texture here. I would love to revisit this wine with another 15 years of bottle age and maybe finding complex flavors of dried apricot, honeyed spice, butterscotch and almonds. Just for good measure, we opened a 1989 Jobard Meursault Blagny to pair with the cheese course as well. This is a fully mature bottle with popcorn, butterscotch, toasted nuts, and a seaweed-like minerality. Fleshy and broad textured on the palate.