This past Friday, the reds from the Old World took the back seat as the powerhouse Cabs from California showed better than the wines of the Old. The night was filled with big, bold, luscious ripe fruit, graciously coating the mouth with velvety layers of sweet vanilla, dark chocolate, and licorice spice.
Now that I have your attention, we started with what ended up to be one of my favorite wines of the night; which I think it is safe to say that it was a favorite amongst my colleagues too, 2012 Kunstler Rudesheim Berg Rottland Grosses Gewachs Rheingau Riesling. Do not scroll down to the bottom! This dry Riesling was absolutely stunning! It expressed fresh white jasmine and zesty mandarin on the nose with a minerally palate that was bright in acidity, counter-balancing the ripe stone fruit and any appearance of sweetness. Riesling berries are hand-picked by the Kunstler family from the steep slopes of Berg Rottland (vineyard site) in the charming town of Rudesheim. Grosses Gewachs or the ‘GG’ you see on the label, symbolizes that the wine is dry and from the best vineyards of the highest level within the VDP classification system. The term Grosse Lage, on the bottom of the label, further indicates that the stated vineyard (in our case, Berg Rottland) is of ‘Grand Cru’ status within the Rheingau region. That wasn’t too bad. Now I challenge you to say Kunstler Rudesheim Berg Rottland Grosses Gewachs Rheingau Riesling five times really fast or, better and much easier yet, try a Grosses Gewachs Reisling this year even if Riesling is not your typical ‘cup of tea’. I could go deeper about the VDP system, but then you really would scroll down to the bottom and I don’t blame you!
Unfortunately a bottle of 1996 Remoissenet Richbourg Grand Cru was corked. Had this not been case, you could be reading a completely different blog. My favorite reds of the night were a tie between two power-house California cabs. The 2011 Gargiulo Vineyards ‘G Major 7’ OVX Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2010 Kelly Fleming Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2011 Gargiulo Vineyards ‘G Major 7’ OVX Estate Cab was incredibly elegant, complex, and powerful all at the same time. Each sip reflected layers of luscious floral tones, crushed wild berry, and deep earth. The tannins were perfectly refined and the texture so velvety that it was difficult to put the glass down. This is a luscious 2011 Napa Cab that was well received by all and will continue to stun palates well into the future.
The 2010 Kelly Fleming Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was also a great drinker, with its boastful flavors of rich mocha and generous dark fruit. Sweet baking spices were layered seamlessly while notes of cedar and plush petals silkily lead the way into the long, equally lustrous finish. Celia Welch’s fabulous signature style was well represented in this richly textured, polished Cabernet.
Amongst all these reds, it was nice to have a refresher as we opened a bottle of the 2008 Aubry Le Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites Champagne. This tasty Grower Champagne is a blend of all seven Champagne grapes. 25% field-blended Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, 20% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, 15% Arbane, 20% Petit Meslier, and 5% Pinot Meunier. The Champagne’s creamy bubbles cleaned away the tannins from the reds, while the peculiar blend created a Champagne very complex in flavors. Brackish seaweed mingled with rounded citrus on the nose while more earthy and savory tones were on the palate along with green pear and wild flowers. The Champagne concluded with a briny minerality that replenished my palate as I was ready to go back to the big juicy reds. As you can see, it was yet another great night at Graileys with great friends and great wines.
Friday Lineup
2011 Domaine Ardhuy Bourgogne Blanc
2012 Walter Hansel Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
2010 ‘2480’ Hollywood & Vine Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
2009 Favia Cerro Sur
2010 Jones Family Proprietary Red Blend
1994 Arrowood Reserve Speciale Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
1999 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon
2000 Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande