A Cabernet avalanche came to pass Graileys’ way last Friday and surprisingly, I survived to share the tale.
I was manning the bar area, hydrating with the latest release of Ozarka when a member handed me a bottle of 2007 Merus Cabernet. I poured a taste in my glass and slightly subdued notes of smoke/roasted coffee and loamy earth rose from the glass. A little swirl and there were hints of blackcurrants and cedar. The palate was full and structured; brooding and seemed even more backwards than the nose suggested. The tannins were chewy and although the density and concentration were there, but this is a youngster needing a little bit more time in bottle to reveal its richer, luscious nature and sumptuous fruit.
As I left my glass of Merus to one side to give it the opportunity to settle, I decanted a 1999 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Cabernet and this was ready to go right out of the bottle. Expressive and layered with plums, black raspberries, cassis, a touch of cedar and wet earth evident in the nose. Sweet red fruit core, tannins that were velvety, and great freshness. Lovely, plummy finish.The balance was impeccable in this wine and at this stage, it is in a great drinking spot.
Next to the Diamond Creek was a half bottle of 2001 Montelena Estate Cabernet. This was good, but next to the Diamond Creek, I found this to be lacking in depth. Pleasant, soft tannins, rounded mouthfeel, some notes of blackcurrant. Slight minty note and tobacco. At least in terms of half bottles, I would say start drinking what you have now.
A bottle of 1994 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet was opened next. I was looking forward to this wine as I’ve had many a great experience with this wine. Unfortunately, this bottle was not as good as some of the ones I’ve had. The initial sniff revealed a roasted plum/raisiny component intermixed with loamy earth. I preferred the palate on this wine: rich and concentrated, cassis and plums, a eucalyptus lift that I liked. The flavor profile seemingly fresher than the aromas. Resolved tannins and richly textured palate. I let my pour sit in the glass hoping that roasted component will blow off. It eventually did , but it just never got to where I expected the wine to be. Maybe we just needed to decant this wine sooner and allow it to breathe for at least 3 hours? I recall having a similar experience with an 87 Beringer PR which we were ready to dump in the sink after the first sniff; we were convinced it was poorly stored with pickle juice-like aromas layered with prunes and raisins. But Simon insisted we let the decanter sit behind the bar and after about 4 hours, the wine blossomed to reveal a delicious wine packed with cassis, black olives, and eucalyptus.
A 1994 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet was tasted next. This was refined and elegant with a nice iron/mineral-edge to its black fruit core. Complex and balanced. Nuance of eucalyptus, green tobacco, and wet earth provided more complexity. Round and velvety. Delicious to drink now.
Simon thought it was time for a cellar trip to his personal stash and out came a 2002 Colgin Herb Lamb. The nose was expressive but the palate seemed tighter and more restrained. But who cares, I can contentedly sniff this wine for the next hour with nary a complaint. Blueberries, cassis, vanillin, mocha, a floral undertone, dried sage, and toasted spice characterized the aromas. As the wine took in air, it gained in density becoming broader and expansive hitting every inch of my palate with luscious blueberry pie laced with creamy cassis and finished with a dash of mocha for good measure! I was in Cabernet heaven! And Simon quips, “There is nothing wrong with this wine, except, it’s not 1994 Herb Lamb.” Yes, he said it.
We popped the cork on a 1994 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Cabernet next and it was disappointing. Oxidative with raisins and dates and not much else.
But hey, we can’t win them all. Besides, we will always have 94 Herb Lamb.