On most Tuesdays, I usually wake up with an earnest intention not to drink. This past Tuesday was no different yet I failed, again. But this is one I will own up to any day. As soon as that bottle of 1989 Pichon Baron walked in the door, I was in trouble. Complex aromatics mixing graphite, dried tobacco, and roasted espresso beans with blackberry, plum, cedar and licorice. The palate was fleshy and well-structured with hefty but well integrated tannins. Impressive depth, structure and complexity. As it sat in the glass, this took on a smokier side as well as a sweeter, cassis fruit that lingered on the finish. Yum! This is in a fantastic drinking window especially with a 2-hour decant but has the structural components and balance to improve with age.
An immensely concentrated, masculine 2002 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was next in the line-up. Flamboyant on the nose with cassis, black cherry, chocolate, earth, baking spices and vanilla but it seemed more reserved on the palate. High levels of sappy tannins dominated the palate and the medium finish. I thought this was initially more impressive on the nose. I did revisit the wine before I left – three hours after it was first opened – and it seemed denser and juicier with tons of black fruits, baking spices and mocha. I’d like to see this wine in another 3-5 years to see if the tannins will resolve and soften with additional bottle age.
Up next was the 1982 Pavie which was on the opposite end of the structural spectrum from the 2002 Pride. This had a core of pretty red fruits – kirsch, cherry liqueur, wild berries, plums – along with tobacco and licorice. Medium-bodied, velvety texured with a lush and sumptuous mid-palate; resolved tannins. No hard edges on this wine; just seamless and glides on your palate from start to finish. Next to the first two bottles, this was sexy and feminine perhaps slightly lacking in depth but that texture grabs your attention.
This was followed by the opulent, rich, and concentrated 2007 Penfolds Grange. Intense aromas of black cherry jam, plum, cassis, blackcurrant, and vanilla. Fabulous density and concentration, superb balance, and very well-delineated. There’s enough acid here to keep the wine vibrant amidst all that sweet fruits. As it opened in the glass, there was more complexity as notes of spice, smoke, chocolate, and toasty oak emerged. This is a baby and very primary right now but the succulent character of this wine makes this a pleasure to drink now but has all the right stuffing for long term aging.
And just to cleanse my palate, I finished off with a taste of the vibrant, rich, and toasty 2011 Aubert Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay. Expressive on the nose with enticing orchard fruit, almonds, toast, lemon curd, and white flowers. Full bodied, creamy textured but with great acidity to keep the wine balanced.