Binge-Tasting Graileys Style

By: LA Perkel

Yesterday was a (good) busy day at Graileys. We just picked up a new cellar of mostly Bordeaux collection and we were just giddy. For the next four hours, all one could hear was the ‘tick, tick’ sound of computer keys as we all sent out the New Cellar Offer to our clients. So, it’s understandable that by the time 5pm came around, we were ready for some proper libation to end an extraordinary day. The 1999 Leflaive Batard-Montrachet was the first indulgence of the day. The wine showed signs of maturity with its intense honeyed and toasty notes along with citrus and floral undertones. The palate was textured, fleshy, and creamy. Medium-plus finish with a subtle hint of almonds. I was impressed by the wine’s balance with enough acidity to cut through that density. Definitely WOTN for me. We tasted the 2001 Vieux Chateau Certan next. This wine was decanted an hour prior and the wine benefited from it. Aromatic nose of plums, blackberries, earth, sweet spice, and subtle dried herbs lead to a palate that wowed with its concentration and a beautiful texture. The seamless integration of this wine belies the structure that lies underneath. In a word, sexy. We tasted the 2009 Felton Road Pinot Noir ‘Block 5’. Felton Road is a well-regarded winery from New Zealand’s Central Otago and winemaker Blair Walter actually stopped by to taste us on a lineup of his wines. Block 5 is a superb bottle that showed vivid Pinot aromas of red fruits and black cherries. Hints of minerals and dried lavender added complexity. Showing obvious oak component with toasty mocha notes. I particularly loved the racy acid that kept the wine fresh considering its massive structure. Some tannic grip in the back balanced by fruit concentration suggests its potential for ageability. A bottle of 2001 Dujac Clos St-Denis was opened next. This particular bottle’s aromas were diffused; save for espresso notes, I didn’t get much else initially. Eventually, aromas/flavors of cherries, forest floor, and spice were trying to come out. There was unmistakable structure and density on the palate, but the flavors need to catch up. I’m convinced this wine is just closed right now, but with time (perhaps in five years?), it will express more defined pretty fruit, spice, and earth. Next in the lineup was a 1997 Paolo Scavino Barolo ‘Bric del Fiasc’ which had me skeptical with its stewed, pruney nose. But on the palate, this was totally a different wine: massive and powerful with layered notes of tar, figs, licorice, damp earth, eucalyptus, smoke, black raspberries and dusty cherries. It tasted fresher on the palate. High levels of velvety tannins. The acidity on this wine was killer; it pushed that finish to unimaginable length where the wine showed more pronounced licorice flavors. This was my second favorite wine of the pack. I tasted a 2003 Gruaud Larose next which showed roasted espresso beans, black cherries, plums, blackberries, mocha and a palate that was opulent, rich and concentrated. Nice thread of acidity kept the wine’s ripeness in check. Firm tannins were well-integrated adding to a more supple texture. Approachable now. A 2006 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve hit the table next. I really liked this wine for its wonderful balance given its power and chewy, firm tannins. Primary aromas of cassis, plums, and blackberries with smoky oak and mocha.  With air, this wine evolved to show an even broader mouthfeel and more noticeable cassis and licorice notes while retaining that structure. The 2005 Bisou Cabernet Sauvignon was markedly different from the Beringer Cabernet showing more lifted aromas of blueberries, black raspberries, and black currants along with a more velvety structure. Compared to the Beringer, this had softer tannins and a rounder mouthfeel. The 2008 Barbour Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon was opened next. The touch of Cabernet Franc was showing on the nose with hints of peppery and green tobacco aromas. The palate is plush and full-bodied with ripe blackcurrants, plums, dark cherry fruit; oaky undertones. Ripe and well-integrated tannins. Harmonious and a pleasure to drink now. This was followed by another Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, a 2009 Futo ‘OV’. Expressive, opulent, and rich. Candied black cherries, licorice, cocoa powder. Silky-textured. Shamelessly New World. The bold and rich 2009 Leviathan was tasted next. Black cherries, chocolate, and caramel aromas/flavors. Opulent and expressive. A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 17% Syrah, and 7% Cabernet Franc. Sonoma County was represented by 2008 Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon. Flavor intensity and sumptuous texture are on point descriptors. Big cassis and blueberries along with mocha and dark chocolate characterized the aromas and flavors. Rounded and velvety in structure.

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