By: AJ McClellan
Domaine Leflaive makes some of the best white wines in the world. Without doubt the complexity, elegance, structure, and balance that Leflaive is able to attain in their wines is remarkable. Leflaive has an interesting story that matches their wines nicely. It all started in 1717 with Claude Leflaive settling in Puligny and on the domains present building. Back then he owned a mere 5 hectares, all of which all was sold to other négociants. The Domaine was founded by Joseph Leflaive who bought 25 hectares of vineyard after the phylloxera louse devastated the Burgundian vineyards and brought the cost of land to an all time low. Starting in 1920 Joseph started to replant his newly acquired vineyards and with the help of his vineyard manager, Francois Virot, they picked out new root stocks that were better adapted to the land. After the vines matured Joseph gradually started to sell wines under his own label.
After Joseph passed away in 1953 his four children (Anne, Jeanne, Joseph, and Vincent) decided to keep the Domaine whole rather than splitting is up amongst themselves and created a SCE operating company in 1973. Jo (Joseph) took over the Domaines administrative and financial management while Vincent took care of the vineyard and the wine. This is when Domaine Leflaive started to build a reputation for excellence and unsurpassed quality.
In 1990 the family appointed Anne Claude, Vincent’s daughter, as joint manager along with Oliver, son of Jo. In 1993 Anne took over full control of the Domaine while Oliver left to concentrate on his négociant company.
We were lucky enough to have the importer of Domaine Leflaive come in and taste us on a lineup of the newly released vintage of their wines.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Macon-Verze – Big lemon/lime zest with a great minerality and searing acidity. This is a great everyday drinker and a nice introduction into Leflaive’s wines.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc – The Bourgogne Blanc is a deal year in and year out. This is the declassified juice from their vineyards and punches way above its weight with a smooth palate of dry tea leaves, banana leaf, lime bubblegum, and perfumey white flowers. With a long finish of limestone minerality pared with crisp acidity this is a great go to wine in its price point.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Meursault Sous le Dos d’Ane – This is an elegant beast with freshly picked apricots and peaches paired with muddled white flowers and a touch of tartness. Broad on the palate with a long finish.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet – The entry level Puligny Montrachet, this is a great value wine. You have the heaviness on the palate and a touch of honey that will develop over time. The fruit is coy at first but grows in the glass showing green apples and unripe apricot. There is a touch of lemon zest on the finish with a floral nuance and the classic minerality.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon – Another barge wine, if you want an entry level 1er cru this is a stellar choice. Heavier on the palate with more crushed stone and unripe fruit. The acidity was a little sharp but that will be mellowed by time in the bottle.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres – This was my favorite 1er of the lot. Loads of white summer flowers with mountain of limestone behind it. Grilled peaches and Asian pears combine with a touch of honey and hints of crushed vanilla bean. The palate is smooth and lingering with a great acidity and lasting finish. This wine will stand the test of time, the longer you can wait to drink it the better it will become.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles – Great wine with a fantastic complexity of fruit, minerality, spice, and floral components. Lacking the complete picture that the Les Folatieres was showing but I am sure after half a decade in bottle this wine will come together nicely.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenuess Batard Montrachet – Wow. This wine showed it Grand Cru status in spades. Honey, limestone, vanilla, citrus, tropical fruits, and stony denseness. This wine has a long while to go but every year it will pick up speed.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet – Wow, Wow – yes folks that is the rare and illusive double wow… I can only imagine what this wine will do in a decade or two. It had everything the Bienvenuess Batard Montrachet had and more adding layers of complexity and combining it with a silky texture that coats the palate turning into a 90 second finish. Amazing wine that make you realize how special Burgundy is and what it can accomplish.