There is a moment at Graileys when a night suddenly goes from being great to something more epic. Last Friday, it changed for me when member John W opened the 1989 Margaux whose stunningly complex aromatics of blackcurrants, blackberries, gravel, coffee and dried tobacco leaves had me swooning. The palate was even more dramatic and memorable: satin-textured, just gently coating every inch of my taste buds with sweet black fruits, cassis, dried herbs, iron-metallic minerality, dusty tannins and a lovely finish tinged with roasted espresso beans. Vibrant, aromatic, rich yet elegant and super long finish.
I instinctively grabbed my glass of 1994 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (Magnum) for comparison and was immediately hit with intense and sweeter aromatics of blueberries, plums, black licorice, mocha and dried flowers. Such intensity was likewise apparent on the dense, concentrated, and full bodied palate. Chunkier tannins although resolved revealing a supple texture. This is the second time I’ve had this wine and it has been consistent. When we had our Members Appreciation Night in January, this was voted WOTN in a line-up of 30+ remarkable bottles – which included a 1982 Pichon Lalande – tasted blind. This wine’s flavor concentration and structural components suggest another 20 years or so of potential aging developing a more savory, eucalyptus-y complexity and refining the tannins even more. This revealed its New World upbringing next to the ’89 Margaux with its fruitiness and sweeter oak nuances. Thank you, Keith and Jean Ann – great victory lap!
Matt J’s 1986 Quintarelli Ca del Merlot was a nice treat. Initially tainted with VA reminiscent of nail polish or varnish… thankfully, that blew off quickly revealing raisins, plums, red licorice, smoke, cherries, and earth. Full bodied and opulent with a nice thread of acidity that kept the wine nicely vibrant.
And because this is Graileys, a taste of 1996 Dom Perignon Oenotheque was in the ready to help ‘cleanse’ my palate. This is definitely a baby with razor sharp focus buzzing with stony minerality, toast, citrus, white flowers and apple aromas and flavors. The palate is full-bodied, firmly structured, nervy with very high acidity that it seemed linear initially. With time in glass, I thought, this showed a deeper toastiness, baked pastry and brioche flavor profile as well as a creamier texture. This has decades ahead of its life.
Our patron of more esoteric wine finds, Dr. E, was also in armed with a NV Doyard Cuvee Vendemiaire. From 100% Chardonnay, this was lean and mean hitting my palate with super high acidity and lemon, orange peel and mineral flavors. Medium-bodied, elegant with medium finish. This was an interesting Champagne and the first time I’ve ever tried this wine.
Just in time, member John J walked in and managed to grab a little sip of that killer ’89 Margaux. He generously grabbed a bottle of 1990 Pichon Baron to share around the table. Graphite, cassis, blackberries, spice, cedar, tobacco and earth notes emanated from the glass. Full bodied and well structured with well-integrated, supple tannins and lengthy finish. This has always been one of my favorite vintages of Pichon Baron and this did not disappoint. As the wine sat in the glass, it revealed even more enticing black and blue fruits along with licorice and an opulent mouthfeel.