by | February 22, 2010

Tasting 100-point Robert Parker Cabernet with Ann Colgin at Grailey’s

By: AJ McClellan

colgin cellars

Above, from left: Simon Roberts (partner/owner Graileys), Ann Colgin and husband Joe Wender of Colgin Cellars, and Dave Stearns (partner/owner Graileys).

The owner of Colgin, Ann Colgin, came in today to taste us on her 2006 vintage of IX Syrah and Proprietary Red. Ann is a Texas girl who views winemaking as a form of art and I could not agree with her more. Her love for wine and the subtle brushstrokes that make a painting into a masterpiece show through in her winemaking.

In addition to producing cult California wines, Ann and her husband, Joe Wender, also have a love affair with Burgundy as they are part of a consortium that bought the famous negociant house – Camille Giroud.

ann colgin

2006 Colgin IX Syrah – With vines from Cote Rotie and Hermitage it is no wonder that this wine has a distinctive Rhone touch while still being unmistakably Californian. We decanted this wine two hours before service, and after tasting it I believe that it needed an additional four. Massive on the nose with heavy brush strokes of baked blueberries, candied plums, and forest floor, it had a lighter touch on the back, adding detail and depth with burnt cloves, cinnamon, crushed rock, and black pepper all falling into place to make a beautiful masterpiece. The palate was superb with smoked cedar, bramble, red roses, vegetable matter, and green bell peppers. With huge chewy tannins that were in no way hard but very soft this wine has great aging potential and I would love to see what it will be doing in another 15 years. Parker gave this wine a 93 but I must disagree; this wine was without a doubt the best Californian Syrah I have ever had.

2006 Colgin IX Proprietary Red – A perfect 100 point score from Parker, and after tasting the wine I can see why he liked it. This Bordeaux style blend showed off huge fruit up front with blackberry jam and massive overripe strawberries. The oak aging was also very prevalent with roasted vanilla bean, sage, and a cabinet full of cooking spices. A colossal palate consisting of ripe bing cherry, freshly picked wildberries, and a minerality of tall redwood trees and concrete. I am happy to report that the wine was fully dry with no residual sugar left in the wine.

ann colgin

1997 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard – A special treat from one of our members, a bottle made by Colgin from Mr. Herb Lamb’s vineyard. Blueberries and light blackberries on the nose with a touch of forest floor and cherry cobbler. The palate was spicy with cinnamon, allspice, dill, and peppercorns. There was also a subtle minutiae of coconut husk, clove, white pepper, and black tea. With great balance and symmetry this wine was a perfect example of what the former two could be in another ten years.

ann colgin

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by | February 22, 2010

Colgin After Party

AJ McClellan

As usual, after the “official” tasting, our members were inspired by the wines they’d just had and dove into their cellars to see if they could produce a bottle to match up against the formidable Colgin wines.

1978 Taurino Notarpanaro Rosso Del Salento – First out the gate with loads of funk, earth, mold, and old dried out tobacco up front but with a secondary fruitiness that surprised me – dried prunes, sour cherries, and raspberries were still making a stand against the tide of earthiness that threatened to overwhelm the wine. The wine was drinking nicely right after it was opened but after some time in the glass the wine started to fall off, becoming disconjointed; all the aspects were there but they were not coming together properly. The wine had an interesting finish of gingerbread.

1970 La Conseillante – A fantastically traditional Bordeaux with baked raspberries, compost, forest floor, graphite, blood, iron, and cobblestone intermingling to create a fantastic example of what a mature wine should be.  The wine retained a crisp acidity that surprised me and the tannins were soft and smooth but still holding ground. After some time in the glass the wine evolved to show beaten cherries, dry earth, and a touch of fennel.

Jeff Bradley from the Ritz giving us his impression of the wine

2006 Domaine de Montille Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru – Fantastic Burgundy with a minerality of chalk, slate, and limestone. The fruit was that of tart raspberries and red currant. Then the secondary characteristics of allspice, cinnamon, and baking spices showed up to finish the balancing act that the wine walked with perfection. An excellent example of an elegant, sophisticated wine with a exceptional balance of fruit, earth, minerality, acidity, and tannins.

2007 Patrick Javillier Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru – Buttery popcorn smothered in caramel and put in the oven till it developed a slight char, then seasoned with vanilla extract and cooking spices and served over green coconut leaves and garnished with pear skins, orange blossoms, and wild white flowers… then smashed with a gigantic limestone brick.  Another great Burgundy with the perfect balance of a tightrope walker and an unforgettable, long-lasting finish.

1975 Meyney – Burnt raspberries and black cherries with barnyard on the nose. The palate was full of sour cherry and cassis with a metallic finish. Great little wine with a surprising amount of life to it; when I first opened the wine I thought that it was done but after some time in the glass the wine opened up to divulge an elegance that I did not expect out of this vintage wine.

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by | February 20, 2010

Saturday is a Funny Day

AJ McClellan

Saturday is a funny day; when you think it is going to be busy no one comes in. When you think it is going to be slow something always happens. This Saturday felt like a slow day to me.

2006 Champy Signature Bourgogne Blanc – We started with a nice light Burgundy to get things going. Champy is always a great wine to relax and enjoy and, with light yellow pear, lemon zest, and limestone minerality, the wine is a fantastic easy drinking Chardonnay.

1961 Chateau Chasse Spleen – When a member comes in with a 1961 Bordeaux you know things are going to go sideways quickly. The Chasse Spleen was an excellent specimen of old Bordeaux with faded fruit of soggy cherries and red raspberries. The main draw of the wine was the soft forest floor and secondary characteristics that had evolved over the wine’s 50 year life span. Big wood spice with lots of cinnamon and white pepper on the nose, the palate had a soft texture and showed an elegant spearmint and evergreen flavor with a back of cooked cloves, pine needles, and chocolate covered raisins.

2001 Bouchard Montrachet – After the legendary vintage of 1961 our member decided to try a legendary vineyard, that of Montrachet. The 2001 Bouchard was magnificent with buttered popcorn, caramel, and toast spilling out of the bottle. The palate had hundreds of subtle nuances to show off including thick crystallized honey comb, molasses, quince, apricot, honeysuckle, white summer flowers, and a brilliant limestone minerality.

2005 Pavie 375 ml – If I were to give you a hundred guesses as to what would of come next I bet you would not have guessed 05 Pavie, and in half bottle no less. Here it was before us, an inky, deep purple, extremely young, 100 point Parker wine. Simon declared that it reminded him of a young Harlan and I must say that I could not disagree. Big ultra ripe plum and blueberry on the nose with a ton of vanilla and crushed rock on the back. The palate had a distinctive unripe green stem quality that I attributed to the youth of the wine, along with massive tannins and a big black berry jam finish. Through all this I felt that the wine retained a great balance and was well deserving of its perfect Parker score. In another 20 or 30 years this wine will be a contender!

1987 Beringer Private Reserve – After our Old World extravaganza our members challenged Simon to find a New World wine that could stand up to the quality of the wines we had been drinking. The 87 Beringer was very impressive and showed what a well-constructed California wine could do with a little bit of bottle age. Ripe black currant and burnt grass on the nose with a slight funkiness on the palate paired with bark stew and cherry cobbler. The Beringer had plenty of fruit left but it was not overbearing and the wine had superb balance. The finish was one of wood spice and cigar box.

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by | February 19, 2010

D is Getting Married.

AJ McClellan

Today is a special day – our good buddy D’lynn Proctor is getting married! I would like to take a moment to say congratulations to D and Candice! I hope you both have a fantastic honeymoon!

2007 Paul Dolan Zinfandel – An easy start for the evening with a great little Zin. Blueberry bubblegum and cherry pie with baked cloves and a light white pepper background. The fruit is chewy and mixed with caramel and leather. A great little easy drinking Zin to get us started.

1978 Guigal Hermitage – Stewed cooked fruits and bacon cooked on a skillet with a slight funk on the nose. After taking the first sip the wine was pleasant but slightly off, and D was quick to point out a slight cork taint on the finish of the wine – very disappointing…


1998 Lesec Les Galets Blonds Chateauneuf du Pape – Burnt tar and blackberries up front, the palate had a light leather and bramble mixture finishing with a medley of dark wild berries. This wine was drinking great and had plenty of life left in it.

2001 Mas Igneus Costers – Great little wine with a beautiful perfume of black raspberry liqueur, cassis, minerals, kirsch, and flowers, superb purity, a lush, layered texture, and a tremendously persistent finish that lasts for 40+ seconds.

2006 Fotinos Brothers Pinot Noir – This is truly a deep and serious Pinot Noir. It coats the palate with spice and stone fruit, white pepper and plums. Hints of dark chocolate balance the tart bing cherry. Tannins are evident but supple, proffering a long and elegant finish.

2005 Jones Family Cabernet Sauvignon – This wine hits on all cylinders. Very fruit forward on the palate with a nice almost chewy dusty texture and well-integrated tannins. Layers of sweet toasty French oak complement the plumy, cherry flavors. Hints of black olive and cedar add complexity on the finish.

1986 Senejac – D decided he needed a little bit or Bordeaux so we broke open this little jewel. Roasted black berries with plenty of lead and gravel on the nose. Lavender and purple flowers on the palate with the unmistakable forest floor that we all know and love from Bordeaux.

Now it was time to get cranking with a little bit of Bubbly!


1990 Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle Rose – Wow what a great little Champagne! Sparkling watermelon and strawberries with a slight hint of creamy yeast on the nose. The palate was wonderful with a tart cherry and a dash of crumbled brie cheese. The finish was smooth and long; this was a great bubbler!

1986 Taittinger Art collection – Simon donated this beauty to the table and it was singing! The exact opposite of the Laurent Perrier: raw power. Bold yeastiness and creamy Asian pear with green sour apple and sourdough bread exploded off the palate of this wine, making a huge statement on my taste buds.

1986 Pol Roger Churchill Magnum – I could not resist the temptation to saber the bottle, and after a couple of botched tries D had to take it away from me and do the deed himself, which was quite impressive to see after the amount of wine he had consumed. The wine was well worth the wait with a floral nose of honeysuckles and lilies. The palate was fantastic with Meyer lemon, sliced green apple, and yellow cake.

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by | February 17, 2010

Roth Tasting

AJ McClellan

Yesterday was a great day, but it’s a new day and new adventures await!
We had Aaron Alger from Roth come in to taste us on his wines.

2006 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon – Very ripe cherry with a dry dirt component lingering in the back of the mouth, adding a subtle earthiness that is hard to find in new world wines. The palate spoke of tobacco, cherry pith, and vanilla with a slight tartness on the finish, indicating that this is most definitely a food wine, although I did enjoy it on its own.

2007 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon – The 2007 had more of a candied feel to the wine with a cherry cough syrup and candied maraschino cherry on the palate. The wine finished with burnt plum and a slight greenness. There was considerable wood spice, which was slightly awkward because it wasn’t able to integrate into the wine but stood out like a sore thumb.  It is possible that this wine will mellow out and find its rhythm after a few years in the bottle…

2005 Lancaster Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark stone cherry with stewed plums and a light dusting of cinnamon on the nose. The palate was brighter with sour red cherry and red liquorish, and a finish of mint leaves and bell pepper. The wine was impressive with good depth and pleasant complexity.

After we tasted through the lineup Graileys members decided to treat Aaron to some wines from their personal cellar.

1988 Jaboulet Croze Hermitage Thalabert – Strong out the gate, the Jaboulet was drinking nicely; the nose was one of moldy log and funky toe with a hint of cherry that had sat out in the sun for about two days too long. The palate was one of pulled pork and cooked raspberries with roasted cranberries to complement the dish.

1990 Ridge Geyserville – Anyone who tells you that Zinfandel does not make good wine should try this bad boy. Big cinnamon and acerola cherry with a slight wood spice backing on the nose. The palate showed a cherry cider aspect that was surprising and blackberry jam finished with black pepper.

1997 Guigal La Turque – Yes I know we have been on a Guigal kick, but when the wine is this good it’s hard to keep your hands off it. Strong out of the gate as usual with black tar and dry red earth on the nose. An underlining clay, pepper, and smoke component bombarded the senses after taking the first sip. After an hour in the glass the edges started to smooth and the wine revealed peppercorns, smoked meats, cucumber, and a light toast. As always we finished the bottle far too quickly for my liking.

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by | February 16, 2010

Monday Tasting Part I

AJ McClellan

I have learned that there is no such thing as a slow day in Graileys. Take Monday as an example. The day started innocently enough with a small Burgundian wine tasting with Peter Wasserman.

2008 Becky Wasserman Marsannay – Very light wine with a dainty nose of ripe strawberries and red cherries. The palate was very crisp and lively with an almost tart cherry playing on the back and a very subtle earth note on the finish.

2007 Lignier-Michelot Morey St Denis – Great Burgundy with earthy overtones on the nose followed by a slate and limestone minerality and sour watermelon on the palate. There was a pleasant wood spice on the back with a medium body and light tannins; the acidity was crisp and the finish of red juicy cherries was great.

After our appetizer the members started rolling in and the main course started

NV Godme Champagne – This wine reminds me of sparkling pear cider with a dash of green apple extract and apricots. There was a pleasant chalky minerality to the wine and the effervescence was enough to tingle my nose but not make me sneeze.  With a slight yeast finish this is a killer grower Champagne.

2000 Bouchard Montrachet – This was my first time to try a wine from the prestigious Montrachet Vineyard and boy did it leave an impression! Immediately on opening the wine I got a sense of key lime pie and blooming honeysuckles with toasty popcorn lingering in the distance… not to forget the big limestone minerality! The palate was extraordinary with layers of complexity starting with lemon zest and honeydew and then moving to creamsicle and butterscotch. Then the more tropical flavors started to evolve such as pineapple, kiwi and papaya with a long finish of toasted vanilla.

1999 Dujac Morey St Denis – Jammy cherries and ripe plum on the nose with crisp blueberries and roasted vanilla beans. The palate was smooth with a slight note of compost and a rocky minerality. After some time in the glass the wine evolved to show a darker aspect of its personality, changing to show dark dried blackberries and stewed wild fruits.

1997 Guigal La Mouline – Chocolate covered raisins with violets and purple flowers on the nose. The palate spoke of bacon fat and tar with well worn leather and smoked game adding complexity. The problem with Guigal is they are always so good when you first open them you forget that they get even better once they have had the chance to breathe for an hour or five. I showed a heroic amount of strength and allowed the wine to open and evolve in the glass for the rest of the night. It opened up to show roasted coffee beans, tart raspberries, compost, barnyard, and wet dog. The tannins were pure velvet giving the palate a sensual massage and making me savor every second I had the wine in my mouth.

1966 Cheval Blanc – With a crumbled cork on the table in front of me I tentatively took the first sniff – Wow fantastic! I let out a breath of air that I didn’t realize I was holding and took my second sniff – OMG what is the horrible steely, iron smell, is this same wine? What started out as a fantastic sample of Cheval Blanc turned into a nightmare in the blink of an eye, and I set the glass aside in pure disgust.

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by | February 16, 2010

Monday Tasting Part II

AJ McClellan

After the disappointment of the 1966 Cheval Blanc it was time to pull out another big gun.

1997 Dujac Echezeaux Grand Cru – Wonderfully complex wine with an upfront nose of allspice, burnt vanilla, and a light back of used coffee grounds. The palate revealed bramble berry and a slight hint of green coco. With a searing acidity that I didn’t know existed outside of German Rieslings this wine was a true delight to enjoy.

1983 Barbi Brunello – Dusty cherry seasoned with gasoline and hidden in the compost pile next to the barn. This Barbi was a great example of Brunello and was drinking very well but not quite up to the 82 that we had last week.

1966 Cheval Blanc – What the heck, after an hour I tried the Cheval Blanc again – WOW! What was once all cold steel and iron turned into a complex montage of dried leaves and blackberries with a smothering forest floor and mushrooms that grew overnight. The wine had resurrected itself and it was drinking like a champ. I love happy endings…

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by | February 15, 2010

Grailey’s Tasting Room

The tasting room at Grailey’s Fine Wines (above) is available for private and corporate events (members only) and includes sommelier services and personalized tastings created especially for the occasion, client, and guests.

To inquire about availability and pricing, please contact a Grailey’s portfolio manager by clicking here.

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by | February 10, 2010

Dave is in Town!

AJ McClellan

When Dave comes into town you know it is going to be a good time! We pulled out some great bottles and had some great fun!

8th bottling of Abacus – Burnt vanilla and toasted caramel were my first impression on the nose but there was something there that I could not quite put my finger on. After finding some candied blueberries and sugary vanilla beans I realized what I was missing – you know the burnt crumbs that collect at the bottom of a toaster? Yah the Abacus had some of that going on. With that burden off of my mind I proceeded to taste the wine. Plum, burnt popcorn and a slightly oxidized style with a finish that reminded me of a grassy knoll. This is an incredibly interesting wine.

1999 Tertre Roteboeuf St Emilion – A gear change from the Abacus. The nose was one of sour cherries situated on top of a pile of compost with a subtle minerality. Very easy drinking with smooth tannins and a pleasant finish.

1996 Guigal La Mouline Cote Rote – I know I say this every time but I just can’t help it, Guigal is one of the most consistent high quality producers of wine that I have had the pleasure to experience. This particular Guigal lead off with dirt covered roasted plums dipped in smoked bacon fat. There was a steely minerality of iron rebar with tannins firm as steel and a finish of tobacco and bay leaf.

1978 Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage – If I was stuck on a desert island with only one wine to drink this wine could possibly be the wine that I would pick. Smoked beef and game with a spicy vanilla and cooked plum on the nose. After allowing the wine to open up for three hours I finally brought myself to stop smelling the wine and take a sip – pure ecstasy. Incredibly lively on the palate with a zingy acidity that makes you wanna stand up and dance. Savory herbs of thyme and caraway carry you away to a happy place and a lingering finish will keep you in a daze for quite some time.

1970 Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien – Immediately on opening this bottle I could tell it was going to be a gooden. After smelling the wine Simon almost fell off his chair. Loads of minerality with a slight nuttiness of roasted almonds; fantastic baked cherries and spice plum finish.

1986 Latour Pauillac – Brilliant wine with a wet rock gravely minerality and a floral nose of dried roses. The palate was full of scrumptious ripe currants and with a small hint of cedar, spice, and pepper. The tannins were fine and well developed a classic 1st growth Bordeaux. The finish was one of walnuts and slight tar.

1983 Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage Magnum - Leather and red flowers with stewed red currant and forest floor on the nose. The palate opened up to deliver a great funk and must with compost and blood. Then the wine finished with a dried plum and beef jerky. Great wine that surprisingly gave the 1978 a run for its money.

1987 Col D’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino – What I thought was going to be a great wine turned out to be a dud with tired floppy tannins and stewed soggy fruits. The wine was solid but it was just past its prime, too bad…

1996 Rubicon – After all the old world wines it was time to get some new world in the mix. The Rubicon shot out of the gate with a massive black fruits of currant and cherry. The tannins were still immense with a subtle back of eucalyptus, coffee bean, and liquorish. A excellent wine with a long finish and potential to age for another 5-10 years.

1983 LA Lagune Haut Medoc – A graceful wine with a nose of plum and roasted nuts with a slight funk lingering in the background. I love this wine for its pure drinkability. Tannins of silk and a smooth finish. This wine is in its prime and should be consumed now rather than later.

1997 Biale Robert Biale Vineyard Zinfandel – Jammy ripe red fruits with black pepper and a spicy undertone on the nose. The palate is a classic Zin with all the pepper and spice one would expect. Firm but well developed tannins and a lingering plum finish.

2004 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova Brunello di Montalcino – Thick cherry cough syrup, bacon fat, and a potpourri of dried flowers on the nose. Red raspberry explodes on the palate with candy cherry on the back. A subtle earthiness with white truffles and a touch of dried violets and dark red roses. Classic light nut skin twang and a long finish complete this wine. Bold silky tannins and a crisp acidity bring this wine to life.

2008 Relic Ritual 46% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah – Big nose of purple flowers and sage with ripe plum and bramble berries. Soft tannins with a touch of earth but not a lot, very silky on the finish.

1977 Grahams – We had to finish with a little of port. The Grahams was soft and easy going down with dried currants and red raspberries as well as tar earth and leather dried tobacco and chewy chocolate.

After the dust had settled we took a moment to look over the wreckage we had caused and the pile of bottles that lay empty. We had done good, if Dave remembers this night he will be proud.

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by | February 1, 2010

Monday at Graileys

AJ McClellan

Mondays are normally quite slow around Graileys. Typically we spend the day cleaning up the wreckage from the prior weekend, but you never know when an epic tasting is around the corner.  The day started like any other Monday.


2005 Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape – I had just finished cleaning up the joint and popped a bottle of Pignan to see how Rayas’s second label was tasting. With big blue fruit and soft gamey flavors the wine was quite nice and perfect for relaxing after a hard day of cleaning. The wine finished with leather and sweet tobacco. A relatively light mid palate for a CDP but it was a very pleasant wine.

1997 Solaia – This is when the action started. One of our members walked in and declared that it was time to open the good stuff. The Solaia was the first bottle on the table, and as good as the Pignan was it paled in comparison to the Solaia and was left in the dust. The Solaia showed off a stewed plum and sour cherry nose with dried tobacco and cracked earth. The palate boasted green coco and red roses with chewy tannins of silk and a well balanced finish of dark chocolate, pine needles, and dark raspberries. Nothing like a great Italian wine on a Monday afternoon.
1982 Pichon Lalande – With only the three of us in the shop Simon decided to spoil us with a bottle that he had been saving for a special occasion. After blowing the dust off the bottle I popped the cork and pour a taste. As soon as the wine touched my lips, I kid you not, “It must be love” by Madness started playing in the background. The wine had so much complexity it took me a moment to unweave the wine enough to put it to words. First were the purple violets with graphite and baked raspberries. Then for a moment all I could think about was how magnificent the wine was. I pushed through trying to capture this piece of art with mere words. Bright red cherries, a well developed funk – not offensive but extremely pleasant – dried tobacco, tart cranberries, a slight herbaceousness on the back, very lush finish including cloves and fennel that lasts for more than two minutes. The longer the wine sits in the glass the more complex it becomes revealing a garden growing over lightly spread compost soil with chewy milk chocolate filled with caramel and wrapped in homemade beef jerky. While sitting back and enjoying the long lasting finish all I could think of is how classy this wine is a real lady. With only a few sips left in the glass the wine changed again to show a slight smoky toast and coffee on the nose with a light mocha and green coco on the palate. This wine was a chameleon. I only wish I had more of it in the glass so I could watch it change another time.

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