Afternoon with Cesare Cecchi

By: D’lynn Proctor

After tasting through about 60 Barolos (Roberto Voerzio and his wines being the favorite, no pic sorry!) in Padiglione 9, I waltzed over to Padiglione 7 with espresso in hand and met pals Rolando Marandino of Banfi and Cesare Cecchi of well,… Cecchi. On the menu was a wonderful Piedmontese preparation of shortribs alongside a ten year old Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the estate, which was a match made in heaven.

This family winery has been around since the late 1800’s and have been producing some of my favorite Chianti Classico Riserva’s and Vernaccia’s as well as this new project which also rocked my palate. Coevo. A very modern yet rustic style of Sangiovese, blended with Cab, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. Honestly one of the best wines I tasted at the fair. Very reminiscent of Ornellaia..Yes, that good. Now this story quickly ends because Miss Italia and her 3 runners-up sat down right next to us, for “less” than a bite, and the area quickly became filled with badge carrying reporters and cameras. All in all, a wonderful day.

A Presto!

Leave a Comment

Filed under Fine Wine

Bottega dei Vini

By: D’lynn Prtoctor

Yes, the day was long, many wines were tasted, and many friends were “Ciao’d”. Now it was time to visit (this is no punishment!) the worlds’ most famous wine bar. Bottega has been around since 1890, and they boast 60 ish wines by the glass and over 80,000 bottles in the underground cellar. This is history here. Located just around the corner from Piazza Bra (home to the Coliseum) in a dark alley that only the chosen can find, this maximum 20 table, 70 person occupancy bar usually boasts more than 150 people, standing room only, with another 200 people in the alley out front.

Tonight was my friend Luca Sartori’s birthday and as you see, he celebrated 127 years! Just a little scherzo! While we were not drinking his wonderful single vineyard Amarone Corte Bra(previously drank at dinner in Piazza delle Erbe), there was plenty of Guidalberto, Dal Forno, Batasiolo, and oh a Nebuchadnezzar of Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta.

See you next year Luca!

Leave a Comment

Filed under Fine Wine

Installment 2: Gaia Gaja

By: D’lynn Proctor

It is 9am, and after a Coke, 100 pushup’s, and a cafe americano(lotta caffeine), I am off to the padiglione of Lombardia. Now Lombardy is home to Italy’s own “champagne” known as Franciacorta, and some consider the great Franciacorta producers as good as the Tête de Cuvées from Champagne. I, second that notion! Franciacorta is produced in the same bottle ferment method(méthode Champenoise) as the sparklers from Champagne and also adheres to strict aging methods, whether non-vintage, vintage or reserve.

As I mentally prepare myself for dry sparklers, the first flight(of about 70), pleasantly surprised me with Chiaretto’s. The ever so lighlty sparkling rose wine that is a match made for food pairing. I power through a few flights and I am still waiting for bubbly,then a few more flights and I taste wines from Lugana, wines from the special rebo hybrid, and some great moscato di scanzos, and still no bubbly. So I decide it is time for a break, and I head to the Gaja Riedel private office to grab non other than Gaia Gaja, daughter of famed Angelo, for a quick Zangaro(panini) and a couple of espressos. Gaja for me is the equivalent to a multiple oscar-winning actor, he always delivers. The estate produces such cult and collector wines like Sperss, Conteisa, Sori Tildin, Sori San Lorenzo, Rennina, Sugarille, and Darmagi, many of which we have published tasting notes on from older vintages. After a good chat and talks of her next visit to Dallas for a wine dinner with us(stay tuned), I head back to Lombardia and am awaited by glasses upon glasses of bubbles. Now I am an even happier man.

Producers tasted: Giorgi, Balgera, Caccia, Ca’ del Bosco, Boselli, Pratello, Quistello, la Maddalena, Torreggiani, and Bella Vista my favorite plus many more!

To be continued! A Presto

Leave a Comment

Filed under Wine

Verona Fiere #5

D’lynn Proctor

This year marks my 5th visit to the World’s Largest Wine Fair and 1st as the Somme of the Elite Graileys team.

Now for some of the readers who are unfamiliar or new to VinItaly, this is the countries trade show which exhibits all of Italy’s provences of wine that they have to offer. Over the course of  5 days, more than 200,000 people will cover an estimated 120,000 square meters of wine, food, and olive oil. (Almost like going to the Disney World of Wine). Pretty much every heavy hitter in Italy will be there: Lidia Bastianich, Roberto Voerzio, Angelo Gaja, Leonardo Locascio, Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, and of course many more. Thankfully, I hung out with a few of them, tasted with them, and enjoyed hearing of all their history.

This picture above is of me waiting for my first flight of wines at 9 am! The first half of the day included the wines of  Moroder, De Angelis, Sartarelli, Saputi, and Mancini Rosella(plus about 10 others).

After an incredibly long day of tasting and walking and not to mention about 15 espressos, it was time for dinner. I hopped aboard the WineBow bus and we headed up to Valpolicella to Allegrinis’ estate. Now last year I managed to waltz upon the stage during dinner and grab a nylon string guitar and play, then have the rest of the band members come and join me and play a set, this year I was a little more tame and just enjoyed the evening. Blame it on the Amarone! This is a pic of the world famous Marilisa Allegrini, my friend, as I give her a great kiss on the cheek.

Off to taste and sell. Part 2 will continue tomorrow.

A Presto!

Leave a Comment

Filed under Tasting Notes, Wine

It Started Like Any Other Day…

AJ McClellan

I always have the feeling when Dave comes into town that something crazy is going to happen. Today started just like any other until Dave strolled in and declared it was time to open a bottle of wine…

2007 Kesner Chardonnay Old Vine – After a long hot day there are few things that are more pleasant than sitting down with a nice cold refreshing glass of killer white wine. Kesner has always reminded me of a great Burgundy in style with its floral honeysuckle nose and its toasty palate. This is the perfect wine to accompany you in sitting back, relaxing, and enjoying a summer afternoon.

After cooling down with the Kesner our members decided to heat things up with a lineup of extraordinary wines from their lockers.

1997 Flaccianello – I think Flaccianello is going to be our new mascot here at Graileys; every time we open this bottle it is sure to impress whoever is at the table. Big forest floor with black liquorish and freshly tilled wet compost on the nose backed by subtle floral notes of violets and red roses. The palate was expansive with a delicious bitter dark chocolate combined with sassafras, pine needles, tobacco leaves, dusty cherry, and roasted herbs. This wine is drinking fantastically right now but I would love to see how it is drinking in another 10 years…

1989 Haut Brion – Flaccianello is a tough act to follow but the Haut Brion managed to pull it off nicely. Everyone sipped on the Haut Brion slowly relishing all of the subtle nuances that this immaculate wine had to offer. My first impression on the nose was a kind of campfire scent, like burning firewood. Then the wine exploded, offering massive barnyard with chives, red roses, clove, cinnamon, haystack, forest floor, crushed rocks, dry tobacco, and black raspberries. It took me a good ten minutes to tear myself away from the nose long enough to take a sip. The palate was as amazing as the nose and after my first sip it took all of my self control to keep from finishing off the rest of the glass. The Haut Brion got better and better by the minute and after an hour it was astonishing how wonderful this wine had become. Dark chocolate, anise, cassis, and dense smoke evolved in the glass and added to the already overwhelmingly complex wine. I must say this is one of the best Bordeauxs I have had since the 1982 Pichon Lalande.

1995 Reserve des Celestins – As one of our members so eloquently put it – “This wine was half man half goat”. Loads of spice with white and black pepper caked over the top of the glass. After getting past the spice you receive a hardy welcome of bacon, blood sausage, black berries, boysenberries, and red hots. This wine was drinking nicely with firm tannins and a long finish, but I think it needs a few more years to mellow out.

1983 Guigal La Landonne – What is a wine tasting without a little Guigal? ’83 has proven to be my favorite year for Guigal and this bottle of La Landonne has kept the legacy going. It amazes me how almost thirty years in the bottle can soften a wine and allow syrah to drink almost like Pinot Noir. When we poured this wine it flowed out of the bottle like silk with a light rusty red color that is the precursor to a great bottle. Smoke, tar, green tobacco leaf, peppercorn, mushrooms, and a hint of old moldy log burst from the glass in true Guigal style, filling the room. When I closed my eyes I could picture myself sitting on the steep slopes of Cote Rotie with a warm breeze floating through the air on the last day of summer. After giving the wine some time to open up it developed a smoked meat characteristic paired with truffles and lentils.

1995 Leoville Las Cases – Big black fruits on the nose with an intense crushed rock minerality. There was a considerable amount of wood spice on the palate with huge vanilla, clove, cinnamon, and allspice coursing through the wine. The tannins were surprisingly soft allowing the wine to drink incredibly well for its age. I would like to see what it will have to offer in another 10 or 15 years.

1996 Salon – Salon is the only Champagne house that can rival Krug in my opinion and tonight just reaffirmed that belief. Like a soft creme brulee with a rich acidity backing up honeyed green pears and apricot with a hint of quince and an asteroid field of crushed limestone. This was the perfect wine to finish off the night with a light yeastiness and refreshing effervescence.



Leave a Comment

Filed under Fine Wine, Tasting Notes

Blog-o-lishes

Simon Roberts

1978 Notarpanaro Rosso Del Salento - Like sliding under the covers with a loved one on a special night. Sometimes you know when you put your hand on a bottle that it is going to sing, this was an old Grailey’s  wine that has been staring at me every time I go into the cellar. It poured out of the bottle like silk, the nose was indescribable and it just bowled me over ……I’ve never smelt, never mind tasted,  a 78 aglianico…..the palate… just silky soft fruit, elegant nuances of  truffle, slight hint tea spices , but a long lingering finish of lavender and fresh flowers, this wine was alive in every sense…if it was a woman it would be Doris Day in her late forties …maturing  yet still pure class.

Leave a Comment

Filed under Fine Wine

It’s always an adventure with Robert Kamen Part I

AJ McClellan

We love it when winemakers come into Graileys to regale us with their stories and impress us with their wines; however Robert Kamen is unique even in a world full of the most eccentric people I have ever met. As the screenwriter for box office hits such as Karate Kid 1-3, Gladiator, The Fifth Element, The Transporter 1-3, Taken, and several others Robert is a fantastic story teller, entertaining the whole room for a good hour telling us about his life and how he came to make wine – everything from building an illegal road with a bulldozer to his vineyard catching on fire because of neglected trees and a power line. Robert has lead a very interesting life and if you ever have the opportunity I highly recommend stopping by and having a chat with him, it is an experience you will not soon forget.

The members warmed up the room before Robert’s arrival with a few bottles out of their lockers.

2006 Abiouness Sangiovese – it is so hard to make great Sangiovese in the new world, but Abiouness pulls it off miraculously. Dusty cherries topped off with crème fraiche and sprinkled with shaved milk chocolate and dried popery.

1994 Opus One – This epic wine was slightly past its optimal drinking point in my opinion. The fruit had faded a little too much and the oak was the only thing left to hold the wine together.  That being said there was still the classic cassis, dark cherry, smoke, and cedar that I always associate with Opus One. The wine was still drinking quite well; I just think it would have been better a couple of years earlier.

2006 Favia Cerro Sur – Black tea and black berries immediately waft out of the glass. Upon closer inspection you can gather nuances of cedar, toast, cinnamon, cardamom, allspice, clove, and vanilla. The mouth feel of this wine always impresses me, like drinking velvet. The wine coats you mouth and fills every nook and cranny with powerful fruit and spice, even after you swallow you feel like you have a mouthful of wine. This wine is as powerful as a bull yet as graceful as a ballerina… huh, now I have this strange image of a bull in a tutu, weird…..

After Robert’s arrival the room hushed and he proceeded to tell us about his life, his film writing career, and his adventures as a winemaker.

2006 Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon – Have you ever seen the old Batman TV show? In big bold letters was all I could see for a brief moment after sipping this wine, then small cherries and plums danced around my head like stars. After my taste buds became acclimated to the ginormous fruit I started to pick out the more subtle flavors of chocolate, lavender, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and cigar box.  This was an extremely fun wine that was a pleasure to drink.

2006 Kamen Syrah – Slightly more refined than the Cabernet but still packing a punch. Dark fruits and bitter chocolate with slight bacon fat and purple flowers on the nose. The palate was massive with huge tobacco, tar, leather, and juicy dark fruit.

We try not to let winemakers leave without a taste of the old and rare from our cellar. On this occasion Simon pulled a couple of bottles of Rhone from the back – just to make Dave jealous.

1980 Jaboulet La Chapelle – We opened two bottles of the 1980 La Chapelle, both were great but the second was even better than the first. Big forest floor with classic tar, saddle leather, smoked game, cedar, spiced plum, and bacon fat. I am sure that after an hour in the decanter this wine would have exploded but we manage to consume both bottles almost as quickly as I could pour the wine.

1995 Reserve des Celestins – This is an extremely rare Chateauneuf du Pape that was a real treat. Old leather shoes and ripe candied plums on the nose mixing for an interesting aroma. The palate was very dry with bramble, smoke, leather, tar, game, and crushed rose petals.

1975 Notarpanaro Rosso Del Salento – We tasted this bottle a couple of days ago and it blew our minds. So the expectations were high for this one. While not as crazy as the last bottle we tried, this little Italian that could was not too shabby. Dried leaves, roasted plums, and burnt tobacco on the nose with a hint of vanilla and rubber on the back. The palate was singing with a crisp acidity, mushrooms, blueberries, lavender, and exotic spices. This is a truly unique wine with a story to tell in the glass.


Leave a Comment

Filed under Fine Wine, Member services, Tasting Notes, Wine

It’s always an adventure with Robert Kamen Part II

AJ McClellan

After the ball got rolling there was no stopping it as our members went into their lockers picking their prized wines to share with Robert after he had been so kind to share his wines with us.

1995 Flaccianello – We have been drinking a lot of Flaccianello recently yet this one surprised me with a large amount of eucalyptus. Dusty red cherry with a slight hint of red liquorish and something that reminds me of sneaking into your grandfather’s attic, like dusty floorboards. Great body and balance with a finish of spiced plum cake and red roses.

1997 Flaccianello – This is somewhat of a legendary bottle around the table at Graileys, it has gone up against 100 point Bordeaux’s and Italy’s finest and come away as the best in show. It was exciting to try this wine again, and with the present company Flaccianello’s legend would be put to the test. As I nosed the wine I found, to my horror, that it smelt of damp cardboard and moldy cork, the bacteria TCA had gotten to the wine and alas it was corked. Luckily we had a second bottle on hand and as disappointed as I was in the corked bottle I was more excited when I took my first sip of the new bottle. Dry blueberries and dusty cherries up front with a slight leather twinge on the back; classic forest floor that was ever-present and showing nicely. After dissecting the wine further I discovered a field of violets planted in a bed of tar with slight toast and cedar aromas dancing in the wind. This wine is the epitome of elegance and with a finish of dry leaves cracking in autumn the Flaccianello had set a high bar for the rest of the wines.

1999 Rayas Reserve – I have always loved Rayas with its relative lightness compared to most other Chateauneuf du Papes but depth of complexity and character. The 99 was classic with bacon on the bone, white pepper, and whole black peppercorns. Upon closer inspection the nuances began to come out and I discovered mint, honeyed ham, tart raspberries, and unripe plums. This was Roberts favorite wine of the night.

1993 Grange – Big baked cherries on the nose with eucalyptus, mint, wet tar, and overripe juicy plums, blackberries, boysenberries, and black mulberry. This wine was like drinking Jam with its think concentrated tannins and juicy fruit. There was however a layer of cooking spice thrown in adding some spice to the wine.

1975 Latour – After doing some running around I got into my glass of Latour, it was sorely disappointing. Simon said it was drinking quite nicely to begin with but it fell off quickly, it took me about 45 min from the time I poured the wine until I had a chance to try it and by the time I had gotten there all the complexities had faded away and all I was left with was a nice Bordeaux but nothing fantastic.

1979 Jaboulet Cornas – After the Latour Robert went into the cellar to have a look around and see if there as anything else we wanted to try. Since he enjoyed the Rayas I recommended Jaboulet’s Cornas, after a little debate Robert swore that the Cornas was far too old to be drinking well. With that Simon scooped up the bottle and immediately opened it. Forest floor, barnyard, and vegetable ash flooded the room immediately after opening the wine. This was most defiantly the most aromatic wine of the night. The palate was light on its feet and still very lively, with strawberries, blue cheese, dried tobacco leaves, and bits of old moldy log foraged from the forest floor. The tannins were soft and smooth and the acidity was crisp and easily cut through the wine keeping it in perfect balance.

2005 Favia La Magdalena – You can’t argue with anyone who wants to open this bottle. It is so easy to drink that before you know it the bottle is gone and someone is in the background struggling to open another bottle. Melted chocolate with roasted plums and black cassis on the nose the palate was pure velvet with big cooking spice, dried tobacco, sliced black plums, and violets.

Leave a Comment

Filed under Member services, Tasting Notes

If You Pop It, They Will Come Part I

AJ McClellan

Another beautiful day! We just left the doors open to see who would mosey on in.

We opened a couple of bottles to chum the waters and then sat back, relaxed, and enjoyed the breeze and sunshine.


2006 Champy Signature Blanc – With a nose full of cooking spice, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and white pepper backed by a subtle hint of buttered toast, this wine is the master of first impressions. The palate is an amazing encore to the nose, showing off its fantastic blend of toasty oak with pine nuts, cinnamon, caramelized pears, and white summer flowers. A robust minerality of wet limestone explodes on the finish with a fresh acidity to back it up; this is a brilliant summer wine for the patio.

2003 Guigal Tavel Rose – A true example of classic Rose, dry as a bone with a tart bitter bite on the end and, surprisingly enough, a slight note of leather on the finish. Perfect wine pairing for saltfish with its crisp acidity and sour fruit bite; this was a fun little wine.

2004 Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis – This is a great little bottle from one of my favorite producers in the world – Guigal. While not quite the elegant beast that is the La la’s, this wine is a third of the price. Roasted red cherries with burnt plums and smokey cranberries melting into a sea of forest floor and earthiness. Brilliant acidity with overtones of vanilla, toast, and cooking spice. This wine was drinking great right out of the bottle, but with some time to develop it only got better and better.

1988 Michel Bouzereau Meursault – This wine was drinking surprisingly well, reminding me of a cross between Montrachet and Corton Charlemagne. All of the honey of Montrachet – honey suckle, crystallized honey, and honeycomb – but with the toastiness and buttery popcorn of a great Corton. After opening up, the wine evolved to show new complexities of honeyed pear, big limestone, toast and burnt butter.

Then in walked Karl with a bag full of Betts & Scholl’s. Richard Betts is a Master Sommelier who has taken his passion for wine to the highest level – making his own label. As a fan of Dr Dre, the rapper, Richard shows his adoration with labels such as The OG and The Chronique (the Chronic). I have always been extremely impressed with Betts & Scholl wines and today was no exception.

2009 Betts & Scholl Riesling Crisp and clean, this is a perfect, elegant example of what Riesling can do. Tropical fruits up front with pineapple, mango, papaya, starfruit, and guava. The palate had the crispness of a ripe Granny Smith apple with a cleanness that is attainable only by Riesling. With a slight finish of saltwater and horse apples this was a great way to start.

2007 Betts & Scholl The OG – It amazes me how you can get so much acidity out of Australia while still retaining the incredible fruit, structure, and delicate tannin balance, but somehow they manage to do it. Ripe roasted blueberries on the nose with slight watermelon and strawberry notes on the back. After taking some time with the wine you will start to discover the subtle layers of black earth, tanned leather, and rocky minerality.

2007 Betts & Scholl The Chronique – Slightly bigger than the OG with the velvety tannins more present but still retaining the blazing acidity and delicate balance that makes these wines so remarkable. Ripe red fruit up front with a beautiful expression of barnyard and funk filling in any cracks and allowing this wine to hit on all cylinders. The palate is refreshing with a powerful essence of strawberries that have been drying on the windowsill for a day or two. There is a finish of black pepper and blackberry jam. This wine was my favorite of the Betts & Scholl line up.

2005 Betts & Scholl Hermitage Rouge – From the vines of Chave and the winery of Chave but with Richard Betts personal twist; this was the blockbuster of the bunch. This wine had all the classic Hermitage qualities but with a slight new world twist bringing the fruit slightly more to the forefront but still retaining the balance of the wine. Big funk with barnyard and bales of hay up front but with a juicy red cherry evident through the earthiness of the wine. Stewed fruits on the palate with cedar, vanilla, big pepper, and beef jerkey.

2004 Fontanafredda Barolo – Karl had opened this bad boy up a day earlier and it was drinking like a champ. From the heralded 2004 vintage, this Fontanafredda Barolo surprised everyone around the table with its raw power contained by lively blue fruit and the classic nebbiolo notes of tar, mushroom, lavender, and a slight hint of lychee on the back.

Most of the wines mentioned above are available for sale. If you are interested in purchasing some vino please click here.

Leave a Comment

Filed under Fine Wine, Tasting Notes, Wine

If You Pop It, They Will Come Part II

AJ McClellan

As our members trickled in one by one and tasted the already impressive lineup we had out they decided to contribute to the array of wine with a few bottles of their own.

2006 Jones Family The Sisters – This is our go-to wine here at Graileys; when in doubt this is an easy-pleasing fantastic bottle of wine that is extremely well put together and is sure to bring a smile to your face. Originally made by Heidi Barrett and then accented with the finishing touches from Thomas Rivers Brown this has the makings of an instant cult classic but with one key aspect missing – it is not absorbingly expensive. Big blue and red fruits with a soft earthy minerality and a finish of milk chocolate; what’s not to love?

1999 Faiveley Clos de Voug Grand Cru – At first I was not impressed with this wine. It was shut down and just about the only thing I could get out of it was wet cardboard. However, after some time in the glass it bloomed into a bountiful wine full of barnyard, forest floor, green cocoa, smoke, red currants, cranberries, bramble, and rocky minerality. Patience is a virtue in this case; the longer this wine sat in the glass the better it got.

1986 Bruno Giacosa Falletto – Another favorite of mine, Giacosa constantly produces outstanding wines that are near the top of the wine world. Big barnyard with burnt hay and wet forest floor with loads of funk and sour black cherry, well worn leather, black liquorish, and not to forget the earthy mushroom and white truffle growing on the back end. Dark bitter chocolate on the finish with a hint of dry tobacco leaves.


1987 Jaboulet La Chapelle – This bottle goes to show that it’s not what’s on the outside but on the inside that counts. After an hour long decanting, this wine was rearing and ready to go. I was trying to concentrate on the other wines and all I could smell was the deep dark raspberries, currant, leather, tar, and tobacco seeping out of the decanter. Once I started pouring this wine into the glasses it filled the room with sour cherries, barnyard, and used tube socks. The palate had a massive smokey quality with cooked wild quail dressed with roasted cranberry smothered in gravy served on a bed of dried tobacco leaves.

1993 Mouton Rothschild – Classic Bordeaux with pencil lead, Asian spice, red liquorish, crumbled dark chocolate, sweet blueberries, cassis, forest floor, and toasty oak. After some time in the glass it opened up even more to reveal vanilla bean, roasted nuts, caramel, and a rocky minerality of crushed schist and pea gravel.

Leave a Comment

Filed under Fine Wine, Tasting Notes, Wine