That was certainly the general consensus last Wednesday when we had the opportunity to taste a handful of some of our favorite Burgundy producers.
First opened was a 1969 Remoissenet Volnay Clos des Chenes which was subtly corked. This was a shame really as I’ve had this before where the wine showed flamboyant aromatics of deep red fruits kissed with spice and minerality.
Our next stop was a 1985 Remoissenet Bonnes Mares which was meaty, earthy with a darker fruit flavor profile. In the mouth, this was very well-structured; entry was impressive with supple tannins giving this wine a seductive texture on the palate. Sous bois, plums, and damp earth notes in the silken mid-palate. I think this was drinking at peak and although a well-balanced wine, I thought it was wanting on the finish where the sappy tannins seemed to dominate.
I was next handed a glass of 1999 Hudelot Noellat Romanee-St-Vivant which was a very youthful wine. Smoky, wild berries, floral, iron-like minerality dominated the aromas leading to a palate that was full-bodied, rich with firm tannins and more pronounced ripe red berries and candied cherries. Impressive concentration and length. This is such a fantastic bottle showing both power and elegance.
Bill S next shared a taste of 1996 Cos d’Estournel which displayed aromas of cedary spice, eucalyptus, dried tobacco, herbs and a core of blackcurrant, blackberries, and plums. This wine was definitely well-structured backed by ripe but firm tannins, medium acidity, and fruit concentration but I think it’s too young to drink now. The high levels of tannins overwhelm right now but it has all the right parts suggesting a very positive future ahead of it. I’m thinking, if I had a bottle of this on hand, I will revisit in at least another 5 years.
Three for four… so far so good.
But when a glass of 1978 Remoissenet Volnay Clos des Chenes made it to my side of the table filling the room with aromas of black cherry preserves, raspberry compote, dried rose petals, red currants, and spice and I felt my knees go weak. This wine was seduction in a glass; from the intense, beautiful aromatics to the silky palate with a boost of acid that kept the wine fresh and vibrant, I was mesmerized. After that initial sip, I just happily sniffed the wine and saved the last two ounces until I was about to leave. As I get in my car, I had the biggest smile on my face knowing that I had the best roadie in town.